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Current state of Savile Row

PatchedUp

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Hello all,

I'm making a trip to London in a week and amongst other things I will be looking to have a bespoke suit made, which will be my first, for general use (interviews, dinner etc, but not work).

I was wondering what people's thoughts were on the current state of Savile Row, which I realise is somewhat subjective, which houses to avoid and which stand out.

I realise there are countless tailors around London who are much cheaper and just as good however I would like to focus on the row for no other reason than just because.

I am planning a wander up and down the street to see which house style suits (pun only partially intended) me best. I have in my head a conservative style SB 3-piece peak lapel, similar in style to a Tom Ford but slightly more traditionally cut.

I am open to change however.
Obviously when there I won't be able to resist a trip into G&G which could be dangerous!

Thoughts? Has anyone had anything comissioned recently?

bw,
PU
 

jonathanS

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Hello all,

I'm making a trip to London in a week and amongst other things I will be looking to have a bespoke suit made, which will be my first, for general use (interviews, dinner etc, but not work).

I was wondering what people's thoughts were on the current state of Savile Row, which I realise is somewhat subjective, which houses to avoid and which stand out.

I realise there are countless tailors around London who are much cheaper and just as good however I would like to focus on the row for no other reason than just because.

I am planning a wander up and down the street to see which house style suits (pun only partially intended) me best. I have in my head a conservative style SB 3-piece peak lapel, similar in style to a Tom Ford but slightly more traditionally cut.

I am open to change however.
Obviously when there I won't be able to resist a trip into G&G which could be dangerous!

Thoughts? Has anyone had anything comissioned recently?

bw,
PU

If I'm not mistaken savile row requires fittings. You'll want to email ahead to see if they can meet your timetable in terms fittings for a bespoke suit.

Regarding houses, I believe if you're looking for a tom ford-esque suit, you're looking at some structure in the shoulders (I know tom ford previously said some things about anderson & Sheppard) but his cut is clearly more military-inspired, in my mind (others might disagree). If you want the tom ford look, you're looking at huntsman, Richard anderson, Kilgore, sexton etc. Sexton might be even more extreme.

You could try anderson & Sheppard too but that is a softer drapier cut than tom ford - more akin to Ralph Lauren purple label.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Three-piece, SB peak lapel, Tom Ford-inspired suit isn't very conservative, but Tom Ford draws a lot from Tommy Nutter in the '70s. If you like that look, stop by Chittleborough & Morgan. They can tone down the look, depending on what you want, but they're the strongest descendent of that Nutter style.
 

Blake Stitched Blues

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That's interesting @dieworkwear

I would have thought that Edward Sexton (I think he started out as a cutter with Tommy Nutter?) would have been the most structured cut on SR? Simon Crompton described his Sexton grey flannel as being 'super structured' and having the most substantial shoulder padding of anything else he's tried, including C&M.

Edward-Sexton-grey-flannel-suit-500x377.jpg
 
Last edited:

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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That's interesting @dieworkwear

I would have thought that Edward Sexton (I think he started out as a cutter with Tommy Nutter?) would have been the most structured cut on SR? Simon Crompton described his Sexton grey flannel as being 'super structured' and having the most substantial shoulder padding of anything else he's tried, including C&M.

Edward-Sexton-grey-flannel-suit-500x377.jpg

Sexton would be another good one, although he's not technically located on SR (not that it matters).

He was the cutter at Nutter, but his style now feels slightly different. There are similarities, but I think of his cut as a very Art Deco, '20s and '30s inspired style. The lines are a lot more angular. Hard to find SB examples on him, but here's one

tumblr_nqcsq3djQc1qa2j8co1_540.jpg


Tom Ford, on the other hand, draws more from the '70s. It has the flamboyance of Nutter, with the wide, heavily bellied lapels. Structure is one element, but there's a lot more going on in the lapels and chest. He uses a ton of haircloth to get that shaping you see here. See how the lapels look different as well:


053d78ae7bd017993f96b14f2ae5af65--tom-ford-designer-black-tux.jpg


Here's Aimes in Nutter

amies.jpg


The famous wedding suit Nutter made for Mick Jagger

8b043585cac1462cd5b4319332b2ef0a.jpg


And here's Chittleborough & Morgan

Michael-Brown-Street-Style9650Piers-Cunliffe-1.jpg


GreySuit_sm2.jpg



You can see a clearer lineage between Chittleborough & Morgan and Tom Ford, drawing on Nutter, than modern Sexton. Sexton has cleaner, sharper lines. Nutter was about strong and extended shoulders, full chest, and a lot of structure. That's evident in Sexton too, naturally, but whereas Sexton feels more '20s and '30s Art Deco now, Tom Ford retains the '70s sleaziness of the original Nutter with those wide, super bellied lapels. I don't know if I would call Chittleborough & Morgan sleazy, but it has those lapels and boisterousness.

For fun, I'm sure Joe Morgan wouldn't cut something as extreme as this for you, unless you requested it, but this is the most non-Nutter Nutter suit I've seen.

Chittleborough-Morgan-JournalOfStyle-4.jpg


Chittleborough-Morgan-JournalOfStyle-5.jpg


Like something Nutter himself would have worn

High-res-Tommy-3_1893028a.gif
 

PatchedUp

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Thank you for your input gentlemen. Perhaps the word conservative wasn't really what I was meaning. I am looking for something that won't look out of place in 5, 10, 20 years down the line - nothing with too wide a lapel, nor too narrow.

When I thought of Tom Ford I was thinking more along the lines of these suits (I'm not dead-set on a 3 button).

My impression was that these days it is less important to book appointments and the houses encourage people to walk up and down the row to see which they like best, although I admit hearing about long waiting times and the above comment is probably aimed at people living in or near to London who can easily come back at a more convenient time.

I was initially thinking Huntsman (although I know they are dead keen on 1 button), Norton & Sons, Poole and Chittleborough & Morgan.

Food for thought.

Quality-wise is there anywhere on the row that are must avoids these days (ignoring stylistic tastes and based purely on quality of product)?

IMG_0186.JPG


165E11F8-E1B5-4666-B74D-55835CBF3DEB-743-000000A183C59469.jpeg


25DC5366-6A1F-4791-95F9-CEE0A874EB67-743-000000A1E05DEAFE.jpeg
 

Ich_Dien

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In my opinion Dege is one of the most military inspired ... if that's what your going for. They cut for a lot of army officers, both uniforms and mufti.
 

GBR

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For 'dateless' tailoring, try Anderson and Shepherd whose 'soft' tailoring is good for that. The young Hitchcock was trained by A&S and indeed his father was MD of A&S for many years. He should fit your requirements as well.
 

buy a painting

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Sexton would be another good one, although he's not technically located on SR (not that it matters).

He was the cutter at Nutter, but his style now feels slightly different. There are similarities, but I think of his cut as a very Art Deco, '20s and '30s inspired style. The lines are a lot more angular. Hard to find SB examples on him, but here's one

View attachment 837666

Tom Ford, on the other hand, draws more from the '70s. It has the flamboyance of Nutter, with the wide, heavily bellied lapels. Structure is one element, but there's a lot more going on in the lapels and chest. He uses a ton of haircloth to get that shaping you see here. See how the lapels look different as well:


View attachment 837667

Here's Aimes in Nutter

View attachment 837668

The famous wedding suit Nutter made for Mick Jagger

View attachment 837671

And here's Chittleborough & Morgan

View attachment 837672

View attachment 837673


You can see a clearer lineage between Chittleborough & Morgan and Tom Ford, drawing on Nutter, than modern Sexton. Sexton has cleaner, sharper lines. Nutter was about strong and extended shoulders, full chest, and a lot of structure. That's evident in Sexton too, naturally, but whereas Sexton feels more '20s and '30s Art Deco now, Tom Ford retains the '70s sleaziness of the original Nutter with those wide, super bellied lapels. I don't know if I would call Chittleborough & Morgan sleazy, but it has those lapels and boisterousness.

For fun, I'm sure Joe Morgan wouldn't cut something as extreme as this for you, unless you requested it, but this is the most non-Nutter Nutter suit I've seen.

View attachment 837682

View attachment 837681

Like something Nutter himself would have worn

View attachment 837685
Wonderful read, thank you. There is more sartorial knowledge in this post then in typical fashion magazine.
 

PatchedUp

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Will have a walk along the row on Monday, will update and let you know who I ended up going for. Just checked, no appointment needed, certainly not for some at least.

Thanks for thr advice all.
 

Maximus Rex

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@PatchedUp :

Honest question... you seem to really like Tom Ford (Gabriel Macht's suit, etc.) why not just go with a Tom Ford MTM instead of trying to figure out how to get a SR facsimile?
 

PatchedUp

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@PatchedUp :

Honest question... you seem to really like Tom Ford (Gabriel Macht's suit, etc.) why not just go with a Tom Ford MTM instead of trying to figure out how to get a SR facsimile?

Simply because I want the fit of bespoke and the ability to play around with little details. I also want to tone down the look of the Tom Ford suits slightly.

That and the fact that I like the idea of a SR suit.
 

PatchedUp

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Just thought I would post an update. On what started off as quite a nice day which resulted in me getting soaked... Thanks to our lovely British weather! I ended up comissioning a suit from Chittleborough and Morgan in a rather fetching blue.

Overall a fantastic experience and look forward to the first fitting.

On the downside my credit card hates me as I also stopped off to pick up some G&G St. James II and a peacoat from Ralph Lauren.

All in all a good day though. Will post some pictures once the garment is complete.

bw,

PU
 

GBR

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Just thought I would post an update. On what started off as quite a nice day which resulted in me getting soaked... Thanks to our lovely British weather! I ended up comissioning a suit from Chittleborough and Morgan in a rather fetching blue.

Overall a fantastic experience and look forward to the first fitting.

On the downside my credit card hates me as I also stopped off to pick up some G&G St. James II and a peacoat from Ralph Lauren.

All in all a good day though. Will post some pictures once the garment is complete.

bw,

PU

That would be good, thanks. I don't think that we have seen a C&M suit or any comments on one.
 

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