Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

[Wes Bourne]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I figure it's probably not worth the time and money. The one major issue is bunching at the yoke seam in the back.

Just think of it as unwanted BB signature shirring

I guess now you can complain about your OneShirt for the rest of their expected lifetime. Btw, have you decided whether you love or hate your OneShoe?

 

[Loudly]

Originally Posted by Dib

Thanks Thornhill

Anyone else have any experience of a shirt from O'Flynn vs the likes of Charvet/Ascot Chang?



Yes. SOF and Charvet (demi-mesure) fit similarly on me after some tweaking. As previously mentioned, SOF's construction is utilitarian in comparison (some loose threads and imperfectly straight stitching) but very good. Half the price though. SOF is great to work with, but very recently seems busy and somewhat backlogged -- speculate it's the work from Hunstman and/or N&L?

Ascot Chang, through a couple of MTM iterations, was consistently blousier and not as on target. Construction was also utilitarian but without the tiny flaws of SOF -- guessing they just crank them out in HK, vs more personal attention and consequent idiosyncracies at SOF. When I used AC, I got very fused collars as a default. I assume you can opt out, but I didn't know any better at the time. Cheaper than the above.

Better selection of fabrics at Charvet (there probably isn't better anywhere on Earth), but you are not going to feel put out at SOF or AC by any means.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

Btw, have you decided whether you love or hate your OneShoe?

LOVE the OneShoe.

 

[srivats]

B, I've asked you this before - why not Paul Winston at Chipp2?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by srivats

B, I've asked you this before - why not Paul Winston at Chipp2?

Does he have a shirtmaker on staff?

If I'm going to traveling to NYC shirtmakers to my list of activities, I would probably just go with Geneva or Paris.


- B

 

[srivats]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Does he have a shirtmaker on staff?

If I'm going to traveling to NYC shirtmakers to my list of activities, I would probably just go with Geneva or Paris.


I know he has a pattern maker for shirts, not sure if has someone exclusively making shirts on staff. You can actually ask him directly, see your PM.

 

[Winot]

Originally Posted by mmkn

Thus, the key design and fit areas are the collar and cuffs.

But the collar is one of the hardest things to get right. The MTM shirts I've tried haven't managed it.

 

[Kuro]

B,

I may be going to Paris in a few months and am willing to serve as your body double for bespoke at Charvet. We can then both use then same pattern going forward. I'll PM you my measurements and a picture of me in my biking gear and we can take it from there.

Regards,

-K

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Winot

But the collar is one of the hardest things to get right. The MTM shirts I've tried haven't managed it.

Bingo. RTW and MTM collars seem to largely suck. The shaping is never quite right, and even collars advertised as 'soft' tend to feel like cardboard. Then there's collar height. My MTM Borrelli shirts are all way too short in the front, which makes it impossible to get any life out of my tie knots.

 

[srivats]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Bingo. RTW and MTM collars seem to largely suck. The shaping is never quite right, and even collars advertised as 'soft' tend to feel like cardboard. Then there's collar height. My MTM Borrelli shirts are all way too short in the front, which makes it impossible to get any life out of my tie knots.

Good point. I guess eventually it comes down to what compromises you are willing to take with RTW - and this is true not just for shirts.

 

[Nescio]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Yeah, I was very tempted, but Matuozzo lured me away. It came down to the fact that Matt had a great personal experience with Matuozzo, and I knew of no one who had used Battistoni.

For what it's worth, the workmanship looked impeccable. They have different options for hand-stitching, but it's mostly of the non-structural variety and they will outright tell you it's unnecessary. The shoulders and buttonholes are handsewn by default.

Where can one order Battistoni shirts in NYC?

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by Nescio

Where can one order Battistoni shirts in NYC?

I think Barney's carries them...

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Nescio

Where can one order Battistoni shirts in NYC?

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think Barney's carries them...
Worth noting that the RTW Battistonis as far as I can tell have no handwork. It's possible Barney's may have a trunk show where stock specials or some sort of purported MTM are offered, but I don't know if it would be the same product/level of detail as going to via Condotti in Rome.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Nescio

Where can one order Battistoni shirts in NYC?

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think Barney's carries them...

I think you used to be able to get a MTM shirt from the trunk show, but they weren't the same as the bespoke shirts you could order from the Rome shop.

 

[Kuro]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think you used to be able to get a MTM shirt from the trunk show, but they weren't the same as the bespoke shirts you could order from the Rome shop.

Yes, only Battistoni rtw is available at Barneys @ $600