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Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Sep 30, 2009.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    (Why I always like fabric other people selected more than my own choices? [​IMG])

    Andrey


    I'm guessing that those fabrics are carried by all the London makers. So a quick weblink in an e-mail to your current guy should fix that problem!
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I really liked this photograph that bengal posted, so I'm reposting here.


    Dege & Skinner - Robert Whittaker, cutting shirts with a knife:

    [​IMG]


    Another shot from Will's blog:

    [​IMG]

    - B
     
  3. George

    George Senior member

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    I really liked this photograph that bengal posted, so I'm reposting here. Another shot from Will's blog: [​IMG] - B
    His collar is standing off his neck.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    His collar is standing off his neck.

    His head is tilted down. I've seen him several times at this point and he is always well turned out. It's a bias of mine.

    A really great guy.


    - B
     
  5. George

    George Senior member

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    His head is tilted down. I've seen him several times at this point and he is always well turned out. It's a bias of mine. A really great guy. - B
    I had to say it before someone else did! [​IMG] I have no issues, I don't expect a suits collar to stay 'glued' to the back of the neck under all circumstances. I've seen them use knives for cutting silk in the past.
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I had to say it before someone else did! [​IMG]

    I have no issues, I don't expect a suits collar to stay 'glued' to the back of the neck under all circumstances.

    I've seen them use knives for cutting silk in the past.


    [​IMG]

    I haven't asked him directly, but even after the pattern is set, I think that he still cuts almost all the collars while his apprentice and he cut the rest of the shirt.


    - B
     
  7. George

    George Senior member

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    I haven't asked him directly, but even after the pattern is set, I think that he still cuts almost all the collars. - B
    No, I was making a general comment about seeing artisans use a knife to cut material in lieu of shears. I wasn't referring specifically to Mr Whittaker's technique.
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    No, I was making a general comment about seeing artisans use a knife to cut material in lieu of shears. I wasn't referring specifically to Mr Whittaker's technique.

    Right...I think most good shirtmakers still cut collars and cuffs with a knife, particularly fine fabrics.

    - B
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Right...I think most good shirtmakers still cut collars and cuffs with a knife, particularly fine fabrics.

    I did ask him: he cuts the main pieces (front, back, sleeves) with shears but uses the knife for the small bits: collar, cuffs yoke.
    With those pieces he cuts up to four layers in one go. Using shears, the likelihood they could shift while the fabric gets
    lifted by the shears' blade is too great.

    The knife is not a rotating one, but has a paddle-shaped blade, sharpened on both sides.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Right...I think most good shirtmakers still cut collars and cuffs with a knife, particularly fine fabrics.

    - B


    +1. Geneva certainly does.
     

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