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Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Sep 30, 2009.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Alright: I've finally decided to start with someone on getting shirts that fit. I plan to see Robert Whittaker when he comes into town later next month.

    Some of you have used him in the past, but then changed shirtmakers. For those of you do use him now, what is your opinion of the product coming out currently from Dege?

    Thanks.


    - B
     
  2. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Seriously though, isn't there a bespoke shirtmaker in Boston you could try instead? Or do you insist on an English shirtmaker?

    Nope. There's BoLine in Norwell, but despite the kind words about them from Carl at CEGO, general local consensus is that they suck.

    - B
     
  4. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    I see. What about the NYC shirtmakers? I'm just curious as to what had you seeking out an English shirtmaker. From the outside looking in, it's easier to grasp why you chose Steed (cut, etc) for your suits, but I didn't think there'd be as many noticeable differences between shirtmakers, aside from actual quality of construction and finishing. Are they known to make a superior shirt? I mean, I can't imagine you chose them for the same reason why a lot of guys here get their shirts from Jantzen ya know. Anyhow, I do look forward to your shirt fitting threads. [​IMG]
     
  5. gomestar

    gomestar Senior member

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    ^^^^


    Isn't the lack of Vox shirt fitting threads a reason enough???
     
  6. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    I don't like that collar on their website. Too DKNY.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I see. What about the NYC shirtmakers? I'm just curious as to what had you seeking out an English shirtmaker. From the outside looking in, it's easier to grasp why you chose Steed (cut, etc) for your suits, but I didn't think there'd be as many noticeable differences between shirtmakers, aside from actual quality of construction and finishing. Are they known to make a superior shirt? I mean, I can't imagine you chose them for the same reason why a lot of guys here get their shirts from Jantzen ya know. Anyhow, I do look forward to your shirt fitting threads. [​IMG]

    If there must be travel, I prefer to have the makers travel to me rather than me to them. If I didn't have this preference, then yes, NYC for Geneva, Paris, CEGO would make sense. I almost went with Kabbaz last year but the whole framework of getting shirts from him had a flavor that did not appeal to me in the end.

    While I'm not sure that we can talk about the classic Jermyn Street shirt anymore, I still think there is a distinctive English look and conventions of construction. I suppose a stylistically flexible American shirtmaker could replicate that, but why bother when the originals travel to Boston?

    As for quality: well, that might be an issue which is why I post this thread.

    If I travelled to Paris reliably enough, I would do Charvet grand-mÃ[​IMG]sure. I still don't rule that out at some point.

    Anyway, Whittaker is a skilled shirtmaker. I've corresponded with two members here who used to use him, but then changed because there was a drop in quality, reliability and overall service.

    I'm wondering from current clients if this is no longer a concern since I would like to think that must have been some sort of temporary issue.

    I probably should ask this over at the Lounge since it's like crickets here on this topic.

    ^^^^

    Isn't the lack of Vox shirt fitting threads a reason enough???


    Well put.


    - B
     
  8. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    For some reason I thought I read that Charvet traveled to Boston. Must be mistaken.
    Can't imagine their bespoke price however as their MTM starts at $600
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For some reason I thought I read that Charvet traveled to Boston. Must be mistaken.
    Can't imagine their bespoke price however as their MTM starts at $600


    Seems like everyone's prices are up these days. Paris wants $395 for Thomas Mason Silverline and $600 for SIC Tess 120s!
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seems like everyone's prices are up these days. Paris wants $395 for Thomas Mason Silverline and $600 for SIC Tess 120s!

    LOL.

    Me likey teh English, but I don't get why anyone would get bespoke shirts from them when other options are available at lower cost, better fit, and higher quality.
     
  11. Invicta

    Invicta Senior member

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    Anyway, Whittaker is a skilled shirtmaker. I've corresponded with two members here who used to use him, but then changed because there was a drop in quality, reliability and overall service. I'm wondering from current clients if this is no longer a concern since I would like to think that must have been some sort of temporary issue. I probably should ask this over at the Lounge since it's like crickets here on this topic. - B
    My understanding was that it was a temporary issue and that the entire firm had basically been co-opted by one of the Middle Eastern oil kingdoms for some kind of massive order and that the vast majority of the firm's time and resources were devoted to completing it. Dege carries royal warrants from Bahrain and Oman if I remember correctly.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    LOL.

    Me likey teh English, but I don't get why anyone would get bespoke shirts from them when other options are available at lower cost, better fit, and higher quality.


    Lower cost I understand, although Dege shirts start around $270 for their basic fabrics.

    Can you explain more what you mean by "better fit?" Do you mean (a) that after an English shirtmaker like Whittaker makes up your pattern and adjusts it after the first few shirts, that subsequent shirts will not adhere reliably to this pattern or do you mean that (b) English shirtmakers will simply not make you a shirt that conforms their style to your body?

    As for "higher quality," the fabrics are their own thing. But I do wonder about the quality of make not being reliably good. I am not sure, though, if I can think of a shirtmaker accessible to Americans against whom some degree of Internet complaint has not been registered.

    I guess I will find out directly myself shortly.

    But, getting back to my main question: is anyone using Whittaker now, and if so, would you be willing to share your thoughts on what the Dege shop is putting out today?


    - B
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    My understanding was that it was a temporary issue and that the entire firm had basically been co-opted by one of the Middle Eastern oil kingdoms for some kind of massive order and that the vast majority of the firm's time and resources were devoted to completing it. Dege carries royal warrants from Bahrain and Oman if I remember correctly.

    Interesting. Thank you.


    - B
     
  14. binge

    binge Senior member

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    Vox, any particular style of shirt/collar in mind? Such as OCBD?
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Seems like everyone's prices are up these days. Paris wants $395 for Thomas Mason Silverline and $600 for SIC Tess 120s!

    What's Matuozzo up to these days? And by that, I mean the price.


    - B
     
  16. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Vox, any particular style of shirt/collar in mind? Such as OCBD?

    You rascal.

    My first order would standard spread collars, maybe a bit taller than usual for the English, with three button barrel cuffs a la T&A.


    - B
     
  17. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Vox, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Fwiw, I had assumed that you visited NYC from time to time for business, perhaps more often than a touring shirtmaker visits your city.

    LOL.

    Me likey teh English, but I don't get why anyone would get bespoke shirts from them when other options are available at lower cost, better fit, and higher quality.


    Good point ^. That was the impression I got from reading this forum, but I didn't say anything because of a lack of firsthand expericence on my part.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1) English shirts are rather tentish. I don't like a tight fit myself, but I like a trimmer shirt than the English make. Charvet is about my ideal for body fit, and Geneva gets very close to that.

    2) They seem to me not to try very hard. One sample shirt, some "corrections," and that's it. I almost think that "bespoke" is too generous a term for what they do. I don't see the evidence of pattern manipulation at very many points to individualize fit.

    3) Construction is OK, but you certainly would get neater machine sewing from Paris (the city, not the firm) or Geneva (the firm).

    If you want bespoke but don't want to come to NY, doesn't Charvet have a storefront in Boston somewhere, or a boutique within a store? And don't you go to Paris for dinner like 20 times a year?
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    LOL.

    Me likey teh English, but I don't get why anyone would get bespoke shirts from them when other options are available at lower cost, better fit, and higher quality.


    Huh? Are you saying Paris is overpriced, or that the English are?

    What's Matuozzo up to these days? And by that, I mean the price.

    I honestly have no idea--haven't bought a shirt in a year. I seem to remember something like 600 or 700 euros.
     
  20. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    As for "higher quality," the fabrics are their own thing. But I do wonder about the quality of make not being reliably good. I am not sure, though, if I can think of a shirtmaker accessible to Americans against whom some degree of Internet complaint has not been registered.

    I guess I will find out directly myself shortly.

    But, getting back to my main question: is anyone using Whittaker now, and if so, would you be willing to share your thoughts on what the Dege shop is putting out today?


    - B


    I don't recall reading anything bad about Hamilton. Not only are they accessible to Americans, they ARE American!
     

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