Cuffed (flat front) trousers

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by yoshii, Aug 9, 2011.

  1. yoshii

    yoshii Senior member

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    I've decided to give cuffs a go on a new pair of trousers (suit, not chinos) on the assumption that, should I not like the final result, i can always convert it back to a normal hem (since vice-versa is not possible i've heard).
    The trousers are slim (not skinny) and flat-front.
    I just have a few questions.

    1 - I've decided on a straight hem, rather than slanted (sound's too artificial imo) I've also asked for minimal break on it. However, i'm wondering if it will appear to pool too much at the front because of the combination of break + cuff?

    2 - Being quite short (168cm), and the general consensus being that short people shouldn't get cuffs, will a regular 1.5" (3.8cm) cuff be too large?

    Assuming they can be reversed to a normal hem, i guess this isn't a huge problem if it doesn't look right on me. It would just save me a heap of time & trouble to get it as correct as possible the first time.javascript:$H.threadViewer.fullHandlePost();
     


  2. Bowtiedlad93

    Bowtiedlad93 Senior member

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    Any flat fronted trouser I say eh, but they are normaly plain bottoms and pleated pants are cuffed.
     


  3. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    A suit needs to be in balence or it will look wrong no matter what your size. Since the slacks are slim and flat front, I suspect the jacket is a back vented, single breasted basic suit style. In which case cuffs would look out of place on the slacks.

    A lot of people think that cuffs make a suit more formal which is not true, it is just the opposite. Cuffed pants came about to keep the bottom of pants out of the mud and served a utility purpose. They were also very popular with double breasted suits because of the balance issue. A double breasted suit has more material, and more things going on visually that a single breasted suit so the cuffs on the pants gave the suit balance. Unless there is a counter balance to the cuffs, the cuffs will put visual weight at the bottom of the suit (at your feet) and would make anyone look shorter (regardless of the cuff size). Pleated pants help a little with the balance, so you can go either way with them.

    As far as a straight hem versus a slanted hem, the best way to determine that is to decide where you want the back of the pant leg to touch the back of your shoe (or not), and how much break you want in the front of the pant leg laying on the facing of the shoe. Some people like the bottom of the pant leg to be above the ankle and not touching the shoe at all. Some people would call that a high-water.

    I like the back of my pant leg to touch about halfway to 3/4 down the back of my shoe (touching the heel counter, but not the heel), but I only like a quarter break in the front, so I usually have a slight slant to the hem. Not so much as to make it a boot cut (more slant), but enough to make the pant leg rest just where I want it to. With a good natural fabric this allow the pant leg to have a nice drape.
     


  4. yoshii

    yoshii Senior member

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    thanks for that glenjay.
    Anyway after trying on the cuffed trousers, it just looked too 'bunched' at the front and without wanting it taken up so much as to have no break at all, i ended up having them redone with a normal hem.
     


  5. jones12

    jones12 Well-Known Member

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    I think the cuff straightens the leg of the trousers and gives it a clean line.
     


  6. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    I think not putting a slanted hem on the pants was a big mistake.
     


  7. blahman

    blahman Senior member

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    Used to hate cuffs as I associate them with those conservative, generously cut, pleated, high waisted pants grandpas wear.
    FW11 Canali is looking awesome to me with narrow leg slim cuts, flat front and short hem.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    A straight hem is quite normal on cuffed trousers though. The cuff prevents putting much more than a slight slant.
     


  9. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    generally the case, but I also don't put cuffs on slim fit pants.

    Nevertheless, he has removed the cuff and gone to plain hem, which, as far as I know, is still straight.
     


  10. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    This board has other short guys who wear 1.5-2" cuffs and look great. Height should not matter.


    This is a silly "rule." Look back to shots from the 50/60s, and you'll see lots of flat front cuffed trou.


    :sarcasm:
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2011


  11. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Agreed. I don't subscribe to the rule of no cuffs on flat front pants. The lady I used to use for hemming my pants did. After a half dozen pairs, I didn't have to say much to her anymore.
     


  12. yoshii

    yoshii Senior member

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    I'm not overly bothered with all the 'rules' for dressing up/clothing either. Generally i just go with what looks good to my eyes (most of which would probably go against the SF group think), but i've never worn cuffed trousers before, and the comments about it not suiting those of a shorter stature seemed to make sense.
    The images posted above was pretty much the look i was hoping to get, however i honestly do think height plays a part in it which in turn affects the cuff size as well (small cuffs don't, imo, look nice but larger cuffs on a shorter person doesn't look good either. Dilemma.)

    ...still not a fan of slanted hems, though in saying that i've never tried it :)
     


  13. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

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    'Tipping' on trouser bottoms (slanted hems) is on practically all plain hemmed dress trousers. Either a slant from back to front or the slant starting mainly from the seams to the rear. It's virtually undetectable during wear. I think if anyone goes to check all their plain hemmed trousers they'll find it there already.

    Sanguis is right about cuffed trousers not being able to be easily slanted. They need awkward darts inside the cuffs to properly achieve it.
     


  14. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    I cuff every pair of pants that I can, whether it be flat front or pleated. The only time I don't is if there's not enough material to cuff. I put 2 inch cuffs on most pants, 1.75 inch on more conservative pants I could be wearing to the office. I used to do no break but I'm starting to put a very slight break so that the back doesn't float.
     


  15. blahman

    blahman Senior member

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    I'm wearing cuffed (very) slim trousers right now. Hemmed a little too short. Pretending to rock them Thom Browne style. :slayer:
     


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