Crosspost from main forum - Lord Willy's in NYC

[amirrorcrackd]

Cross posting this here, because the styling at this place is a lot more fashion-forward/dandyish than business suitable and figured some of you folks may be interested.

Dan

Just back from a suprise visit to Lord Willy's. Walking down the street, came across it and stopped in. It was an expensive stop.

The shirts are nice. Very dandyish. Interesting colors/patterns with unique details (triple button barrell cuffs, ultra-wide spread collars, complimentary button-hole stitching, etc.). Shirts are MTM, but not bespoke. They take your measurements and then you have a shirt in three-weeks, presumably made in China, though it slipped my mind to ask. RTW is also available in select styles - slim-fitting by say, BB standards, but not as much as much designer wear (Costume National, etc.).

Proprieters - husband and wife - were very nice and approachable. Both British and a pleasure to talk with and be around.

Jackets are not bepoke of MTM, they are sized, and I didn't inquire about pricing.

RTW shirts are $180, with a few styles available in a package for $195 (includes matching shirt, boxers, and pocket square).

MTM shirts are $240.

Anyway, I purchased a MTM, will report back in ~3 weeks to let you know how it went. I had them cut mine short as I'll be wearing it casually and don't intend on tucking it in much if I don't have to. That aside, they don't tend to be very flexible on other details, but I'm sure if you were insistent, they'd do whatever. They try to guide you along in the process. They require a 50% deposit up front, the rest upon delivery. Not sure if they do this for everyone, but he told me he'd give me a free matching pocket square as well.

It's a lot of money for what it is, but they were great folks and I figured I'd take the plunge and see how it goes. Keeping those fingers crossed.

Oh, and buttons ARE plastic - gasp!

Dan

 

[calvin]

I too found Lord Willy's to be a great experience, I haven't got my shirts yet, will be picking them up this week. Will keep you informed.
They are not MTM, they are custom made.
As for the plastic buttons, Mr. Wilcox told me that he and his wife were sick of getting shirts back from the laundry with smashed buttons, seems valid enough?

 

[minimal]

Not MTM, but custom made? That didn't seem to be what they were selling when I visited, though that was a while ago. Cute shop though, they were very nice & I love their dogs. Anyone who treats their dogs like that is alright by me.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, could you tell me what you expect the differences to be in the process for MTM vs. Lord Willy's custom?

 

[Lucky Strike]

Sounds nice. Have they got a website?

 

[calvin]

Just to make sure we're on the same page, could you tell me what you expect the differences to be in the process for MTM vs. Lord Willy's custom?[/quote]


Apparently, MTM means that a they take a shirt and adjust it to your new measurements. Custom tailored means that they create a pattern from your measurements and then the fabric is cut for the shirt.
Lord Willy's keep to their own design, but it's built from the ground up for you.

 

[calvin]

Originally Posted by Lucky Strike

Sounds nice. Have they got a website?

lordwillys.com

 

[Lucky Strike]

Originally Posted by calvin

lordwillys.com
Is nice. Thanks. I'll have a look around.

 

[minimal]

Originally Posted by calvin

Apparently, MTM means that a they take a shirt and adjust it to your new measurements. Custom tailored means that they create a pattern from your measurements and then the fabric is cut for the shirt.
Lord Willy's keep to their own design, but it's built from the ground up for you.

Well, I think we disagree on this. Check out the other board for details, but for shirts:

MTM: a set of measurements (say 8-15) is taken. The shirt is then cut and made using those measurements. It is never to my knowledge an already-made shirt that is adjusted.

Custom: a set of measurements is taken, and a paper pattern is made. This pattern and possibly a test shirt is used to adjust the pattern: the adjustments can be anywhere and of any type. The final shirt is made from the adjusted pattern.

The main difference is that on a custom shirt, ANY adjustment can easily be made: seams that are normally straight can be curved, panels that are usually similar in shape can be asymmetric, and so on. This requires a lot of handwork, and someone skilled enough in tailoring to understand which parts need to be adjusted. It is unlikely that for a truly custom shirt, that the person measuring you and the person doing the construction are not the same person.

I only bring this up because you seemed quite sure that LW makes custom, but it's not at all clear that is actually the case. Does the person who measures you also do the tailoring at LW? And is each persons pattern uniquely different? Or are they only different based on 10 measurements taken by the salesperson...if this is the case it's MTM.

Here is what a custom shirtmaker does:
http://www.customshirt1.com/ASK/index.htm

 

[amirrorcrackd]

It's a MTM shirt, NOT a custom shirt.

That having been said, I got an unexpected call from Lord Willy's today telling me my shirt had arrived (nearly two weeks early!). So I went to pick it up and tried it on.

Overall, I was disappointed by the fit. But I feel like this can be attributed to me just as much as them as I was not clear in stating what I was looking for. I like for my shirts to be slim. Very, very slim. This was a "slim fit", but not near what I had hoped. But, they were understanding and are adding darts to the shirt to slim it up a bit. I'd have like for the armholes to be tighter as well, but this was not amongst the measurements that was ever taken in the first place and I didn't express this desire when ordering.

But the folks there are awesome. As I was walking in, Lord Willy was walking out. After greeting me by name he said he was on the way to the corner store to pick up a beer and asked me if I wanted one. I said no and he brought back a six pack and offered it to me again when he returned. Great people.

I'll let you know in a week to two if the shirt does indeed fit better.

The collars are great, by the way.

Dan

 

[calvin]

It's a MTM shirt, NOT a custom shirt.

I also got my call today, a week early.
My two shirts are perfect. i'm a tall guy and the fit was excellent.
I used to go to Turnbull. No more. I have just ordered 5 more (you get a special deal, 4 for 5).
As for the MTM debate. Lord Willy's shirts are custom. I asked. They seemed suprised that I thought that they were MTM. They confirmed that they now have my paper pattern and I can order away.

I agree, the owners are very personable.
The matching pocket square's were a nice suprise too.

Five Stars.

 

[AvariceBespoke]

goto geneva

their top notch construction and can do any styling lord willy can

fabric blows lord willy away- and its made in ny!