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Crompton: "It rarely feels appropriate to wear a pocket handkerchief anymore"

JJ Katz

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I think Mr Crompton is a very valid writer and it's great he can make a living with it. I do not dislike or disparage him.
I merely disagree with his current, relatively recent stance that less common items of clothing, but ones that are still commonly worn, are somehow "inappropriate".
I think it smacks enormously of timidity, conformism and flattening down to the least common denominator.
The comments about cost are not general but relate to this process. Most people( who still buy suits) might spend a few hundred. IF you spend a couple thou, you get a different result. Saville Row costs 5-6k and the extra returns are diminishing, but hey, if you've got it. There is a lot of work and details that go into it.
But if we're talking socks and tees and chinos, the returns on luxury are next to nothing. That's all people are saying.
I don't get this narrative that CM types are uptight or too critical when, in effect, more 'trad' CM types are simply reacting to people who want to conflate CM with jeans-tees-and-parkas adn then go on to call anything they don't wear "inappropriate", "costumer", "cosplay".
 

ValidusLA

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Sure, but as DWW said it's more about the comments.

The decline of CM is real, at least for now. Side adjusters are becoming less and less common, same thing for pocket squares. I understand people here enjoy these things, and rightfully so, but many seem to want to escape this reality instead of accepting it, and denigrate anything (and anyone) that tries to evolve. I'm guessing part of this sort of detachment from reality comes from thinking that this style is "timeless" which is quite short-sighted, as thousands of years of human civilization should have already amply proven.

I have 3 pairs of trousers being made with side adjustors and braces buttons right now. Oatmeal tweed, cream cotton, fawn cavalry twill. I am pondering a 4th pair in ecru cavalry twill (though its 15oz - out of a book my tailor has from Tip Top. Not as nice as the Fox ecru cav twill, but half the price and actually available).

I think Mr Crompton is a very valid writer and it's great he can make a living with it. I do not dislike or disparage him.
I merely disagree with his current, relatively recent stance that less common items of clothing, but ones that are still commonly worn, are somehow "inappropriate".
I think it smacks enormously of timidity, conformism and flattening down to the least common denominator.
The comments about cost are not general but relate to this process. Most people( who still buy suits) might spend a few hundred. IF you spend a couple thou, you get a different result. Saville Row costs 5-6k and the extra returns are diminishing, but hey, if you've got it. There is a lot of work and details that go into it.
But if we're talking socks and tees and chinos, the returns on luxury are next to nothing. That's all people are saying.
I don't get this narrative that CM types are uptight or too critical when, in effect, more 'trad' CM types are simply reacting to people who want to conflate CM with jeans-tees-and-parkas adn then go on to call anything they don't wear "inappropriate", "costumer", "cosplay".
This is a smart comment.
 

smittycl

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True. I think CM nowadays is not for me.
Would your opinion be different if you had to wear CM for work? I mean, serious question. I'm fine with changing standards as progress isn't always palatable to everyone but I do enjoy tailoring five days a week.
 
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BomTrady

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As a Brooklyn resident, I really need Simon to write an article on how to dress when working a shift at the Park Slope Food Co-op. This is the kind of specific menswear advice I need at this point in my life.
Hahaha...my sister and her husband are members too. They told me that Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard were members until they got kicked out for not showing up for their shifts. They managed to do double shifts or something and work their way back in. Do you know if this is this true or is my little sister pulling my leg?
 

corpseposeur

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Hahaha...my sister and her husband are members too. They told me that Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard were members until they got kicked out for not showing up for their shifts. They managed to do double shifts or something and work their way back in. Do you know if this is this true or is my little sister pulling my leg?
I don't have first hand knowledge of this. I do know the aforementioned live nearby and they have a lovely brownstone. That sounds entirely plausible. The Co-op is very serious about people showing up for their shifts regardless of celebrity status. The neighbors in my building are active members and I'll ask them about this.
 

cchen

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I merely disagree with his current, relatively recent stance that less common items of clothing, but ones that are still commonly worn, are somehow "inappropriate".
I think it smacks enormously of timidity, conformism and flattening down to the least common denominator.

adn then go on to call anything they don't wear "inappropriate", "costumer", "cosplay".
THIS
 

Stylewords

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Cosplaying menswear enthusiasts can continue to use colourful pocket squares, fedoras and walking canes, but Compton's reflections are interesting for others. You don't have to agree with every point, but it's useful to read his thoughts on how to adapt CM to the current environment.
 

pwbower

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Hahaha...my sister and her husband are members too. They told me that Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard were members until they got kicked out for not showing up for their shifts. They managed to do double shifts or something and work their way back in. Do you know if this is this true or is my little sister pulling my leg?
Yes, all true. I heard that they both tried to send their assistants to work their shifts. I still see Maggie Gyllenhaal around quite a bit. Spike Lee's sister is also a member. It's a weird place.
 

Phileas Fogg

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Cosplaying menswear enthusiasts can continue to use colourful pocket squares, fedoras and walking canes, but Compton's reflections are interesting for others. You don't have to agree with every point, but it's useful to read his thoughts on how to adapt CM to the current environment.
except that walking sticks are somewhat unusual to see and pocket squares are common. So I’m not really sure how pocket squares are somehow not in keeping with the current environment.
 

smittycl

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except that walking sticks are somewhat unusual to see and pocket squares are common. So I’m not really sure how pocket squares are somehow not in keeping with the current environment.
I think pocket squares have just fallen out of use in an evolutionary way. Not like the NYT Style section was sneering at them. Just one more item like cufflinks that folks looked at and maybe decided were superfluous?

As tailoring fades a bit it makes sense the associated accoutrements would fade as well. I still use a linen TV fold for dark suits but my other pocket squares sit unused in a drawer.

Also, a walking stick without a medical reason is a pure contrivance and beyond silly. I imagine they would drive security folks nuts as well in our post 9/11 world.
 
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Mirage-

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Cosplaying menswear enthusiasts can continue to use colourful pocket squares, fedoras and walking canes, but Compton's reflections are interesting for others. You don't have to agree with every point, but it's useful to read his thoughts on how to adapt CM to the current environment.
I'm sure we can be interested about what Crompton says without dubbing anything we ourselves dare not wear as cosplay?
You can't in good faith equate pocket squares to fedoras and walking canes, imo.
 

lordsuperb

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I'm sure we can be interested about what Crompton says without dubbing anything we ourselves dare not wear as cosplay?
You can't in good faith equate pocket squares to fedoras and walking canes, imo.
So where do we go from here? I bought all these expensive Drake's pocket squares and now they are practically useless........
 

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