Crockett & Jones MTO Central

[NewYawker]

Gents - Regarding the harlech, a few points for consideration if I may:

Blind eyelets can always be converted to exposed eyelets.
Exposed eyelets can not be converted to blind.
Speed hooks can always be converted to eyelets, however, these eyelets would then be "offset" (see alden thread for this).
Dainite sole can be converted to leather sole etc after the shoes have worn down and they need to be recrafted.
Someone correct me if I am mistaken but a flat welt can be converted to storm welt during the resoling process, however, storm welt can not be removed if it was there during the initial manufacture process.

I know this is an expensive boot and everyone should be able to purchase whatever they want. Please know I am not telling anyone what to do or what to purchase, and I am sure most of us have a fairly descent rotation already, but I think we can find common ground on some of these areas to get to the magical 12 required for the boot. To me the main draw for the boot is the whiskey cordovan. Again, I am just highlighting these areas for discussion so we can hopefully get as many people as possible on board. As I told @Papa Doble , I am on board for exposed eyelets or blind, storm welt or flat, double leather sole or dainite, etc. As namors boot up top shows, this build can get pretty fantastic. Cheers gents and stay safe if you're in the northeast.

EDIT: PLEASE SEE DW'S POST BELOW FOR SOME CLARIFICATION REGARDING THIS POST. I DEFER TO HIM ON THESE ISSUES AS HE HAS VASTLY MORE EXPERIENCE.

 

[laufer]



Gents - Regarding the harlech, a few points for consideration if I may:

Blind eyelets can always be converted to exposed eyelets. 
Exposed eyelets can not be converted to blind.
Speed hooks can always be converted to eyelets, however, these eyelets would then be "offset" (see alden thread for this).
Dainite sole can be converted to leather sole etc after the shoes have worn down and they need to be recrafted.
Someone correct me if I am mistaken but a flat welt can be converted to storm welt during the resoling process, however, storm welt can not be removed if it was there during the initial manufacture process.

I know this is an expensive boot and everyone should be able to purchase whatever they want.  Please know I am not telling anyone what to do or what to purchase, and I am sure most of us have a fairly descent rotation already, but I think we can find common ground on some of these areas to get to the magical 12 required for the boot.  To me the main draw for the boot is the whiskey cordovan.  Again, I am just highlighting these areas for discussion so we can hopefully get as many people as possible on board.  As I told @Papa Doble
, I am on board for exposed eyelets or blind, storm welt or flat, double leather sole or dainite, etc.  As namors boot up top shows, this build can get pretty fantastic.  Cheers gents and stay safe if you're in the northeast.

I believe this can be done at least G&G can do it but you should always check with manufacturer.

 

[NewYawker]

@laufer - Thanks for pointing this out and maybe papa can discuss during his communications with Lauren. I just wanted to highlight not every option is permanent - things can be changed later on if tastes/style changes. I know it may seem crazy to spend more money after the fact on such an expensive boot, however, its a good point to mention it can be done if wanted. Thanks!

 

[DWFII]



G

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

ents - Regarding the harlech, a few points for consideration if I may:

Blind eyelets can always be converted to exposed eyelets. 
Exposed eyelets can not be converted to blind.
Speed hooks can always be converted to eyelets, however, these eyelets would then be "offset" (see alden thread for this).
Dainite sole can be converted to leather sole etc after the shoes have worn down and they need to be recrafted.
Someone correct me if I am mistaken but a flat welt can be converted to storm welt during the resoling process, however, storm welt can not be removed if it was there during the initial manufacture process.

I know this is an expensive boot and everyone should be able to purchase whatever they want.  Please know I am not telling anyone what to do or what to purchase, and I am sure most of us have a fairly descent rotation already, but I think we can find common ground on some of these areas to get to the magical 12 required for the boot.  To me the main draw for the boot is the whiskey cordovan.  Again, I am just highlighting these areas for discussion so we can hopefully get as many people as possible on board.  As I told @Papa Doble
, I am on board for exposed eyelets or blind, storm welt or flat, double leather sole or dainite, etc.  As namors boot up top shows, this build can get pretty fantastic.  Cheers gents and stay safe if you're in the northeast.

I think it depends on what you mean by "blind" or "exposed."

A true blind eyelet is a metal eyelet mounted in the lining such that it doesn't show on the facings of the upper. This requires considerably more effort and care than a standard metal eyelet or a eyelet-less eye (can we call it a leather eyelet?). I don't see blind eyelets much anymore but I have tools and eyelets to do the job.

And a blind eyelet would be difficult to convert...to any other, much less replace.

A metal eyelet could be converted to a leather eyelet but not with any finesse.

And a leather eyelet can be converted to a metal eyelet almost at will.

Speed hooks can be converted to metal eyelets and are in fact often mounted on top of metal eyelets.

Commercial storm welt is shaped differently than standard welt but it is not mounted on the shoe any differently--one seam. So theoretically, it's interchangeable in both directions.

It might be mentioned, however, that in all of this there is risk...minor and/or cosmetic but real for all of that.. Removing metal eyelets can cause damage to the facings. The upper may be antiqued along the welt line and converting from storm to flat welt may expose the lighter leather underneath. Ect..

FWIW...

 

[NewYawker]

I think it depends on what you mean by "blind" or "exposed."

A true blind eyelet is a metal eyelet mounted in the lining such that it doesn't show on the facings of the upper. This requires considerably more effort and care than a standard metal eyelet or a eyelet-less eye (can we call it a leather eyelet?). I don't see blind eyelets much anymore but I have tools and eyelets to do the job.

And a blind eyelet would be difficult to convert...to any other, much less replace.

A metal eyelet could be converted to a leather eyelet but not with any finesse.

And a leather eyelet can be converted to a metal eyelet almost at will.

Speed hooks can be converted to metal eyelets and are in fact often mounted on top of metal eyelets.

Commercial storm welt is shaped differently than standard welt but it is not mounted on the shoe any differently--one seam. So theoretically, it's interchangeable in both directions.

FWIW...

Thank you very much for the clarifications DW - as a lamen I very much appreciate your insight into these matters. I simply wanted to highlight there may be possibilities to convert some of the features of the boot - I will edit my original post and point to yours for clarification.

 

[TommyB]



You guys are too kind... Here is my pair from the last run for design critiquing and comparison purposes... ;-) -Mike

Those are real beauties! I might be interested in a pair (Whiskey only). Does anyone know roughly how long it would be once the order is confirmed by C&J to delivery?

 

[PipersSon]

Agreed those are lovely. I'm interested in a whiskey cordovan boot as well gents.

 

[mdubs]



Those are real beauties!
I might be interested in a pair (Whiskey only).
Does anyone know roughly how long it would be once the order is confirmed by C&J to delivery?

3 months

 

[BootSpell]

I once inquired about converting a storm welt to a simple flat welt and was told that they wouldn't recommend it as the leather/shell behind the storm welt might be a different color once exposed as it's been behind the storm welt for some time (sun exposure, etc.).

 

[TommyB]



3 months

Thanks, Mike!

 

[NewYawker]

I once inquired about converting a storm welt to a simple flat welt and was told that they wouldn't recommend it as the leather/shell behind the storm welt might be a different color once exposed as it's been behind the storm welt for some time (sun exposure, etc.).

Thanks boot! Seems to make sense to me. MY understanding was that certain manufacturers either would or would not remove the storm welt.

 

[budapest12]

BIG SNOW MEANS SNOWDON TIME!
The Northeast is getting HAMMERED with snow right now. Don't you wish you had an ASS-KICKING BOOT WITH FULL BELLOWS TONGUE in which you could fearlessly face down the elements??? Of course, you do, goddammit, why am I even asking you that? Well then, time to sign on for the boot you wish you had now - at least you'll be ready for the next time around:


Snowdon: £550 - £458.33 (Approximately $688.78 but subject to exchange rate variability) excluding vat + shipping
- 228 Last
- Oak Wax Hide
- 5 Speed Hooks
- Full Bellows Tongue!
- Faux Stitch Captoe
- Commando Sole
- Veldtschoen
- Full Leather Lining? To be voted on.

12 Needed:
@budapest12
@Nikola
@laufer - Maybe
@68Bullitt

This is a boot you can wear through the worst of it, but pair it with some tweed trousers and you can also wear it to the office. The captoe will help dress it up nicely when you still need to go in to work in the sh*ttiest weather.

 

[Handcuffed]

can you provide an image?

 

[mw313]



Those are real beauties!
I might be interested in a pair (Whiskey only).
Does anyone know roughly how long it would be once the order is confirmed by C&J to delivery?

Based off of mikes picture and the details to adjust to the current order, it should be a great boot! Some great choices but I agree that a flat welt would probably be easier so you guys can always change it later without having to worry about color change in the leather like if you would go from a storm welt back to a flat.

In terms of the eye lets, you can always add other ones for another time so it probably is easiest to keep them simple.

Hope that helps.

 

[sleepyinsanfran]

^ I don't really understand all this talk of changing welts (or picking a flat welt so it's easier to change) - do you guys do that on a regular basis? or buy a new pair with that in mind? I must be from a different planet that I find all this talk of ex-post customization from your local cobbler (or even b nelson) baffling.

I realize getting a 12-person consensus is hard -- but asking people to join so they can get a storm welt installed by their cobbler (who wouldn't have access to the original last) is pretty impractical.