Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren - which last?

[Morgan]

This eBay vendor states that this nice chukka boot is formed on the 325 last (like the Polo Darlton), but it looks like maybe it's on the 341 last (like the Polo Marlow).

http://tinyurl.com/4s6ck6

Can anyone identify this boot and last? It looks analagous to either the Brecon (341) or Chepstow (325) pictured here:

http://www.plal.com/images/cj/2007-0...-19_edited.jpg

 

[grimslade]

That's a great looking chukka. These names are really confusing and contradictory, but I'm 99% sure that the Darlton and Marlow are on the same last, and that that last is the 325, and that these boots are on that last. Are they McCallums perchance?

 

[Gem-bean]

They are the McCallums. Made by CJ on the 325 last (like the Chepstow). They are sold in the US as a D fitting...at least mine were. I have the CJ Grasmere (also made on the 325 last) in an English 9.5 E and the McCallum in a US 10D and the McCallum is a much narrower fit.

 

[grimslade]

I'm pretty sure those are McCallums. And I really really want them and I'm really annoyed that sausages' starting bids are outrageously high.

 

[Morgan]

Thanks guys. On a side note, I passed on a pair of Marlow plain-toe bluchers during the most recent sale because I thought the last looked to narrow at the toe. Of course I'd never seen the Darltons in person, only online, so my comparison was probably not the most reliable.

Grimslade, the starting bids are high, but given the quality of the boot are they a ripoff? I know they're hardly a steal at $650, but they are cigar shell cordovan by C&J. Would someone paying that amount at least be getting their money's worth?

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Morgan

Thanks guys. On a side note, I passed on a pair of Marlow plain-toe bluchers during the most recent sale because I thought the last looked to narrow at the toe. Of course I'd never seen the Darltons in person, only online, so my comparison was probably not the most reliable.

Grimslade, the starting bids are high, but given the quality of the boot are they a ripoff? I know they're hardly a steal at $650, but they are cigar shell cordovan by C&J. Would someone paying that amount at least be getting their money's worth?

That was what they cost at retail as recently as a couple of years ago. That said, they've become harder to find and I believe the retail was up to $895 last time I checked (and I think GVH was claiming $995). So the price not bad compared to the current retail price. Probably not cheap enough to get me off the fence, but YMMV. They're nicer than the Alden chukkas, which go for about $600, IIRC. Rider Boot is offering cordovan chukkas for $750, I believe.

They are also the unofficial SF chukka boot--but you don't want to know the sale price that induced that feeding frenzy. They are on the same last as the Marlows, I'm pretty sure.

 

[txeconomist]

I have the McCallum in a 10D and are bit on the large side for me. I want to buy the plain toe blucher, so should I go down a size? Basically in short, will the blucher fit nearly identical to the chukka?

 

[grimslade]

Yes.