Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren Cordovan (Marlow, Darlton, Gifford, Garran, Lindrick, McCallum, Rh

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NAMOR, Oct 1, 2011.

  1. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    OK I've handled DB shells and they are simply awful. I can't overstate how bad those shoes were.
     
  2. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    I didn't think so. And I'm willing to spend 30 minutes polishing/finishish for a $300 pair of shell boots
     
  3. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    +1 absolutely.
     
  4. chipshot

    chipshot Senior member

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    Given 1/2 down from normal US. My experience ... ME = 9.5 US

    Wings last 325 normal length and tiny bit narrow 9 D
    Penny last 314 short and narrow 9 D
    Tassel last 72 curved so fits longer, narrow as well 8 1/2 D
    PTB? 348 Shorter than the Wings and tiny bit narrow 9 D

    This line up seems to be ideal for me. I advise I also have narrow ecto build ... ie, thin feet. sorta but not a US C though ..

    PTB last input anybody? The PRB fist me slightly shorter than the Wing, but man do I love this toe profile; after a few wears, they fit like a glove. Still my favorite of the line and stoked I found them in the store as they were never on the website to my knowledge. Hope this helps those who are trying to fit these. My personal experience is Cordovan eventually conforms to your feet if your patient enough. At that point, you'll be loving yourself for all the deliberation and pain compromise....
     
  5. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Mate you are right about the width. My Sanderson marked at US8E(in Australia they tend to send the Uk stocks). But no way this could be an E. This pair of Sanderson caused me huge pain… It created a huge painful corn on my left pinky toe. I had to burn it and I was unable to wear dress shoes for over 2 /3 weeks. When I bought my Sanderson the SA assured me the fit was perfect and they will loosen up over time !! Double leather sole shoes and also with wingtip takes ages to break in and gives less as the extra bit of leather around the toe area.
    With Marlow I think I will go with US8D. Wearing tight shoes are such a pain I can’t tolerate. Also they don’t sell the Marlow in Australian stores. So online is the only way to go.
    I have few pairs of DB cordovan LW. As per forum most went ½ size down. But I didn’t size down and went US8D and perfect fit. Just a bit of heel slippage. I thought cordovan has less give ?
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2012
  6. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    Try to keep an eye on length as well. It is not only about width. Perhaps you should consider taking a look at the UK stores to see whether they can get you an extra wide in the 7.5, you never know your luck in a big city mate!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2012
  7. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    I know the Marlows are a cordovan color of their own, a sort of a "sui generis" cordovan, but I own a few #4, whiskey, Mahogany, cigar and I can not make up my mind which color the Marlow most closely resembles.

    Definitely not whiskey or Ravello, cancel them out.

    #4? nah, too dark for that
    cigar? Mahogany? Brandy? Dark Brown? #6?

    Somewhere between #6 and Dark brown with a touch of Mahogany is my closest guess, what do you think?
     
  8. bucksfan

    bucksfan Senior member

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    Dark Brown. It's the same cordovan that Allen Edmonds uses for its Strands in Dark Brown Cordovan. I don't know by what name Horween calls it. The (large amount) of polish may alter the RL color somewhat, vs the almost no polish that AE applies to its shell shoes.
     
  9. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    [​IMG]



    All my Marlows are somewhere between the mahogany and the dark brown, although, they are a lot darker than the sample pictured here, I think you may be right about C&J overdoing it a tad with the polish or dyes or whatever they use.
     
  10. chipshot

    chipshot Senior member

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    Mine are a Hershey Bar Brown in off light and a Lighter Dark Brown under natural sunlight. Maybe they'll lighten up with zero wax for me over the course of time.

    Metal toe taps anyone? My Penny Marlow is suffering bad toe wear left side mostly. The PTB's some, but not nearly as much as the Penny. Wondering if I should install metal taps on the Marlow Tassels before I wear them. The Blucher and Wingtips I am thinking no need but the loafers? I've read to wear a tap for the first 6-8 months of a double leather break-in then remove when the soles have normal flex. Any thoughts?
     
  11. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    I am always careful with toe taps. Unless you have a REALLY good cobbler, rather have someone competent nail a few nails into the sole up in the toe area to reduce wear. You definitely want to avoid protruding toe taps, they just ruin the shape of the toe.

    The best toe taps are those used by G&G or Edward Green. G&G use brass screws which I am skeptical about because they can ruin the sole when they resole or replace the taps. I prefer the nails, but the steel plates used by G&G and EG as toe taps are the way to go.

    The Marlow has loads of thickness to accomodate a toe tap, and I find they do improve the life of the shoe, especially if the shoe is slightly long for the foot.
     
  12. Berryman

    Berryman New Member

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    Hi, I am selling my complete collection of Aldens, anyone interested? Sizes 9 or 9,5 depending on the last
    Thnks

    [​IMG]
     
  13. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    I have a few of my own I could add to your pile, sizes 9.5 and 10 depending the last - kind of over Alden at the moment
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2012
  14. WhoKnewI

    WhoKnewI Senior member

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    May I ask why you guys would like to sell them off?
     
  15. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    In my case I just find other brands more readily available when you need them. Some Alden items you can't buy even if you are willing to wait 2 years and I am kind of bored with #8 and black cordovan. If I have to go to another brand for the color I like, why not change brands completely?

    Sure would be nice to see other colors to add to my existing Alden collection instead of being forced to buy the same old boring colors every time you need a new pair of shoes. It is okay if #8 and black is all you want to wear in Cordovan, I guess.

    Other than that, Alden are a great product, but there are other great products as well.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2012

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