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Crittenden - The Worlds Finest Hand Tailored Clothing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tlfurbay, Apr 16, 2008.

  1. tlfurbay

    tlfurbay Active Member

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    looks really nice but can't compare with Brioni bespoke I'll tell ya

    Really, have you seen the hand tailored coat or the casual soft coat collection? The hand tailored is hot off the press. The casual soft coat collection has been around for a few seasons.

    The hand tailored collection has twice the hand work of Brioni. Heck, the long seams on the back of the sleeve are picked by hand!
     
  2. tlfurbay

    tlfurbay Active Member

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    ???? Are you saying Oxxford will sell a garment with better handwork for less money at their existing stores? That doesn't make sense.

    No, I am sorry you misunderstood me. I was referring to small independent stores.

    Oxxford will freak when they see this coat!
     
  3. JamesT

    JamesT Senior member

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    Really, have you seen the hand tailored coat or the casual soft coat collection? The hand tailored is hot off the press. The casual soft coat collection has been around for a few seasons.

    The hand tailored collection has twice the hand work of Brioni. Heck, the long seams on the back of the sleeve are picked by hand!


    Handwork doesn't inherently make the garment better. I'm not saying these are worthless (my only knowledge of the brand is through this thread), but just adding pickstitching and lapped seams to a coat won't change anything except make it more time consuming to alter.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    IMO fit it is the most important factor for a coat. You can have all of the hand work in the world but if it does not fit, it is not worth any price.

    I agree with your comparison of fit to handwork, but I do no agree that fit is the most important factor.

    The most important factors, in my opinion, are the basic design and aesthetics of a coat. Those compose the starting point, preferably in the context of a whole look.

    Then, those aesthetics need to be applied individually to a human body using the best techniques of construction and fit that are possible at a price point.

    Those techniques, at higher price points, will include human hands cutting, sewing, and knowledgably (both technically and aesthetically) assembling the garment and then fitting it to a real person at various stages of construction where adaptations are most successfully done.

    Hand-sewing is only one element, and if used in a context that does not take advantage of its capabilities (which really is in a full bespoke garment, or something close to it, executed by someone trained in a bespoke environment) some, or even a lot, of the hand-sewing achieves only superfluous decoration at best, or devolves into a marketing gimmick at worst.

    - B
     
  5. tlfurbay

    tlfurbay Active Member

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  6. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Hmm...just looked at this photograph that you posted of a Crittenden blazer:

    http://www.styleforum.net/attachment...5&d=1208376713

    Here's a Solito:

    [​IMG]

    I picked the Solito because (1) it does not have the best sewing in the world but (2) a Solito is an authentic, nearly entirely hand-sewn garment, long seams and all, produced in a living bespoke tradition for men used to wearing bespoke garments.

    To me, there is no comparison: the sewing on one is far cruder than the sewing on the other. Just to pick one example: look at the edge stitching on the collar.

    I do not mean to dampen your enthusiasm...if the design of the garments are good and one is getting some decorative or even meaningful structural hand-sewing at this price level, it will be a very interesting option for many people.

    As for, "The World's Finest Hand Tailored Clothing," well...

    - B
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Damn. Makes me ashamed for being wordy.

    - B
     
  9. AMAR420

    AMAR420 Senior member

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  10. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    hopefully will change perceptions out there that only the Italians can execute fine hand tailoring!!

    Yes, some of the most exciting artisanal handwork I've seen (besides the Italians, British, and Japanese) have come from Vietnamese women and Mexican men. These folks, there is a gentleness to them . . .

    Given the disdain for the low $ that a western artisan might make, I'm seeing Asia and elsewhere as where new handwork artisans will come from . . . aways from now before the focus is there, however.

    - M
     
  11. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    I know production costs in China must be much lower than in the U.S. or Europe, but $895 for a blazer (in decent cloth, I assume) with as much handsewing as described is hard to believe.

    My thoughts exactly...
     
  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    My thoughts exactly...

    +1. Too good to be true.
     
  13. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    +1. Too good to be true.

    I don't know about that. If Hickey Freeman can make a full canvas sportcoat with a retail price of $1000 using union labor in Rochester, NY, I think you could very easily make one with much more handwork in Tailoring City, China for the same or a lot less. There's an article in this week's New Yorker about airport design with this amazing point:

    http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critic...urrentPage=all
     
  14. neyus

    neyus Senior member

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    I absolutely agree with the previous poster. It is not hard to believe the price, given the labor costs in China.

    I think if companies are using developing companies to produce their garments they should step up quality and pass on the prices to the consumers.
     
  15. mpickens8982

    mpickens8982 Active Member

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    The store I work at in OKC sells both the regular Crittenden machine made line and now the new handsewn collection. The craftsmanship on the handsewn line is pretty remarkable. In my opinion, it does rival the Oxxford/Kiton/Brioni's I've seen/owned (Being a RLPL and Isaia fan and retailer, I don't have any Oxxfords or Kitons, but I do own 2 Brionis and Many RLPL's and Isaias). Crit is doing an amazing job. On a side note (forgive me if this is posted in the wrong place) he will be in the store (Spencer Stone Co.) on April 22nd for a show. In addition to what we already have in stock, he is bringing pieces from both lines in a variety of sizes. If nothing else, I am excited to have Crit here because he is one of the great personalities in the business.
     
  16. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

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    Crittenden Rawlings, former CEO of Oxxford, is changing the industry (again).

    He started with a casual collection of soft coats and now he is ready to take on the worlds best coat makers.

    He just released a new collection of hand tailored clothing. These garments may be the finest in the world. Yes, I did say the finest in the world. After veiwing the garments in my store I can honestly say they have more hand work than Brioni, Oxxford, Kiton, Attolini, etc... In addition to the hand work, I have a true testimonial to back up the fit. The first two coats I sold this past weekend were size 46 and 48. They fit perfect! If you can fit the big boys, you can fit anyone.

    Romualdo, our founder, was shocked by the discipline used in the hand sewing. He claims there is no other garment in the world with this much detail. You can't beleive how close the stitches are at the top of the trouser. Most would assume that it is by machine.

    If you get a chance, find a retailer who can show you this garment. For those of you who know, you shall see...
    __________________


    All Oxxford has more, much more of significantly more handwork than all clothing brands (be it Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, etcetera) with all bespoke from all high end, reputable and high priced tailors worldwide being the only clothing makers on the planet exceeding Oxxford for handwork (and far exceeding Oxxford for everything else that is conceivable).

    Bespoke from Kiton, Brioni, Attolini and other excessively priced clothing brands that claim to offer bespoke (I question whether or not bespoke from any clothing brand is really bespoke at all and how bespoke it is if it is even bespoke at all) hardly has more handwork that ready to wear and made to measure from these brands (RTW and MTM from all brands have identical handwork and machine work, FWIW).

    The Crittenden jacket from Oxxford is certainly no exception anything that I mentioned in the first two paragraphs of this reply topic.

    Bespoke from all tailors worldwide that are low end, non reputable and low priced tend to balance out handwork and machine work, FWIW.
     
  17. tlfurbay

    tlfurbay Active Member

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    All Oxxford has more, much more of significantly more handwork than all clothing brands (be it Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, etcetera) with all bespoke from all high end, reputable and high priced tailors worldwide being the only clothing makers on the planet exceeding Oxxford for handwork (and far exceeding Oxxford for everything else that is conceivable).

    Bespoke from Kiton, Brioni, Attolini and other excessively priced clothing brands that claim to offer bespoke (I question whether or not bespoke from any clothing brand is really bespoke at all and how bespoke it is if it is even bespoke at all) hardly has more handwork that ready to wear and made to measure from these brands (RTW and MTM from all brands have identical handwork and machine work, FWIW).

    The Crittenden jacket from Oxxford is certainly no exception anything that I mentioned in the first two paragraphs of this reply topic.

    Bespoke from all tailors worldwide that are low end, non reputable and low priced tend to balance out handwork and machine work, FWIW.



    Correction, the Crittenden jacket is not from Oxxford.
     
  18. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    What flavor is the Koolaid being served?
     
  19. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Correction, the Crittenden jacket is not from Oxxford.
    You mean that all Crittenden jackets are not the same as all Oxxford jackets and significantly different from the brand named in the second part of the present sentence of my reply?
     
  20. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    What flavor is the Koolaid being served?


    ... not good to call the kettle black......
     

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