Critique Please - RLPL v. RLBL - A tale of two suits

[toade]

I discovered SF about a year ago, and have since been desperately in search of my grail suit. Originally that was a solid charcoal or navy RLBL in 40R. After a year of monitoring B&S, none came (or the ones that did, really didn't last long). However I was able to get a navy RLPL with a very similar cut to RLBL, as well as a charcoal RLBL with faint striping. I have taken pictures of each and would love feedback. These are my first real suits, and my first critique thread. First up the RLPL. This suit is insanely nice. Brand new, Super 150s, flat front pants, retail $3500, but I got it at a steal. It's a little roomier than RLBL, but that's probably a good thing... and it's still pretty slim. My only concerns with it are that it is not a very dark navy (which I would prefer), and I'm worried that Super 150s will be a little more delicate. Plus it is double the price of the RLBL. The sleeves and pants are way too long, they've been pinned back a bit, but obviously they both need to be shortened. Also, in the last pic I clipped the back of the jacket, a little below the waste, to demonstrate what it would look like with some suppression. I apologize in advance for the crummy tie.

The jacket needs to be pressed, so most of the wrinkles around the waste and arms in this pic are nothing major:

Here is the pic with about an inch or two of the jacket clipped in the back. The clipping was done around my tailbone and I think it really helps the silhouette:

Now the RLBL. This suit is a charcoal with thin striping. Being as how this is my only real suit, I was hoping for a solid charcoal, however the faint striping actually looks very sharp on this suit, and I don't mind it at all. I bought this suit used off B&S but it is in great condition, and about half the price of the RLPL. Biggest concerns with the RLBL are the very tapered pants, as well as the stronger shoulder. Though I don't think the shoulder is too bad... I do feel like it overhangs a bit. Again, the pants and sleeves need to be shortened, and for the purposes of this pic I have pinned the sleeves back.

Both are pretty tight in the pants. I have a rather bulbous rear, and both pants would need to be let out... the RLBL much more so. The waste of both actually fits me just fine, however with the rear being so tight, it pulls at the crotch, causes wrinkles in the front, and causes the pockets to bow a bit. That actually causes the jacket to puff out a bit, which hurts the slim silhouette. I like the look of both suits from the front and back, however the profile leaves much to be desired. The RLBL pants really have a strong taper, much more so than the RLPL. I think there is enough fabric to let out some of that taper, and make the RLBL pants closer to the RLPL pants... however I'm not sure how difficult that would be for a tailor, nor how pricey. Honestly, I think most of the profile problems will be helped by me losing a few pounds... which I'm committed to doing... so maybe it would be more beneficial to post fit pics in a month... however I'm impatient and wanted to get some feedback. Thanks in advance for all your help... however harsh it may be.

 

[rathebaindc]

if you're going to lose weight, make sure you get your alterations done afterwards, rather than before, otherwise your money might go to waist.

 

[pvrhye]

A lot of bunching in the crotch/buttocks area. I'm not totally sure what's causing that. Generally the pants are a mess at the bottom, but I think just shortening the legs a bit would straighten that right out. The back of the navy suit is really wrinkly. Is it the cut of the suit, or do you just store these bunched up and drooping in your closet or some such?

There's certainly more right than wrong here, but it needs cleaned up a lot.

 

[Sockpuppetwalrus]

Thank you for posting these pictures. I have been wondering what RLBL looks like.
How do the shoulders fit on your RLBL? The RLPL's shoulders seem more natural and I think that's why I like the RLPL's fit more on you.

 

[Sockpuppetwalrus]

+1. Losing wait is a pain in the neck for sizing. Better that you weight a bit so you can get the waste tucked in to prevent the waist of money.

Originally Posted by rathebaindc

if you're going to lose weight, make sure you get your alterations done afterwards, rather than before, otherwise your money might go to waist.

 

[toade]

Originally Posted by pvrhye

A lot of bunching in the crotch/buttocks area. I'm not totally sure what's causing that. Generally the pants are a mess at the bottom, but I think just shortening the legs a bit would straighten that right out. The back of the navy suit is really wrinkly. Is it the cut of the suit, or do you just store these bunched up and drooping in your closet or some such?

There's certainly more right than wrong here, but it needs cleaned up a lot.


Yeah, the rear needs work, but that should fix the wrinkles in the crotch. The pants on both are too long, and will obviously need to be tailored. Big question would be to cuff or not to cuff. I'm 5'10, but my legs are rather shortish.

As for the wrinkled RLPL... that is mostly just because it needs to be pressed, or even steamed. It was shipped in a tiny bag and was pretty wrinkled, I steamed it, but have tried it on a few times since, and clipped it a few times, which didn't help. I didn't realize how wrinkled the back was until seeing these pics. Plus with the suit being Super 150s, it does wrinkle easier than most suits.

I can try and retake that pic after steaming it.

 

[HalfCanvas]

Sockpuppet, for a second there I thought you were the world's worst speller. Then I got the joke.

To the OP, I think the RLPL looks a lot better with your body type. How tall are you? (EDIT: Just saw you posted your height at 5'10".) It almost looks like the coats on both suits are one the edge of too short. (EDIT: This might just be an illusion caused by your self-professed short legs.)

 

[toade]

Originally Posted by Sockpuppetwalrus

Thank you for posting these pictures. I have been wondering what RLBL looks like.
How do the shoulders fit on your RLBL? The RLPL's shoulders seem more natural and I think that's why I like the RLPL's fit more on you.

RLBL is much stronger. RLPL's shoulders are much more natural and comfortable. I don't mind the RLBL shoulder... but do wish it was a tad narrower.

 

[Master-Classter]

Question - I'm under the impression you have to keep the RLBL because you bought it off hte B&S whereas the RLPL could possibly be returned? I think both fit ok... the vents are flairing out a bit and they may be too tight around the mid-section or you've got a bit of a big butt (not a problem, just work around it). The RLPL probably fits you overall better and it looks ok... I'm just a sucker for the BL and somehow it seems sharper, edgier. There is some shoulder overhang though, it's quite obvious. hmmm, so tough call, I agree. Considering the RLBL is half the price, looks a little edgier (I think the taper is fine), but has a bit of overhang, I still think it's the better choice. The RLPL is probably the more conservative safer bet in terms of being a nice suit, but screw that. it's more expensive, delicate fabric, and fits 'fine'. The RLBL is more fun, enjoy it! I guess it also depends on your uses. If you're wearing this suit for interviews, weddings, going out, the occasional sales pitch then BL all the way. If you're 50, slightly frumpy, sit behind a desk and want to show you've made it, the the PL.

 

[toade]

Originally Posted by HalfCanvas

Sockpuppet, for a second there I thought you were the world's worst speller. Then I got the joke.

To the OP, I think the RLPL looks a lot better with your body type. How tall are you? (EDIT: Just saw you posted your height at 5'10".) It almost looks like the coats on both suits are one the edge of too short. (EDIT: This might just be an illusion caused by your self-professed short legs.)


Yeah I noticed that too... however i don't feel they look as short IRL. I think it is an illusion from the camera angle... I probably should have taken it from a little higher angle.

That said... the RLPL is a bit on the short side, at 30" from BOC. RLBL is 30.5".

 

[toade]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

Question - I'm under the impression you have to keep the RLBL because you bought it off hte B&S whereas the RLPL could possibly be returned?

I think both fit ok... the vents are flairing out a bit and they may be too tight around the mid-section or you've got a bit of a big butt (not a problem, just work around it). The RLPL probably fits you overall better and it looks ok... I'm just a sucker for the BL and somehow it seems sharper, edgier. There is some shoulder overhang though, it's quite obvious. hmmm, so tough call, I agree. Considering the RLBL is half the price, looks a little edgier (I think the taper is fine), but has a bit of overhang, I still think it's the better choice. The RLPL is probably the more conservative safer bet in terms of being a nice suit, but screw that. it's more expensive, delicate fabric, and fits 'fine'. The RLBL is more fun, enjoy it! I guess it also depends on your uses. If you're wearing this suit for interviews, weddings, going out, the occasional sales pitch then BL all the way. If you're 50, slightly frumpy, sit behind a desk and want to show you've made it, the the PL.

Well neither can be returned... but I can easily flip either for what I purchased them for... so that is not a concern. RLPL was around $1000, RLBL around $500.

I too like the edginess of the RLBL.... bought I really think the only way I can keep it is if a tailor can loosen the pants a bit. I was also able to get a navy striped RLBL for only $330, so for less money I could have two RLBL for the price of the RLPL.

That said... the RLPL really does fit better. My biggest problem with the RLPL is the color. I think IRL it is a bit lighter than pictured.... as well as a tiny bit more purple. Really depends on the lighting though.

I'm 33 and really only wear suits to weddings and other special events.

 

[SirGrotius]

RLBL looks like it'll be great on you, just a few tweaks. Get that jacket slimmed up and the pants adjusted accordingly.

 

[TimelesStyle]

RLBL doesn't fit well at all; I question whether a tailor could even let out the jacket enough. If you're dead set on RLBL you'll probably want a 42. Also, $500 is too much to pay for a used suit (I think $0 is too much for someone else's used suit, but I digress...) when you can get any RLBL other than the navy/charcoal/black staples for about $800 by season's end.

 

[etb]

Deleted

 

[toade]

Originally Posted by TimelesStyle

RLBL doesn't fit well at all; I question whether a tailor could even let out the jacket enough. If you're dead set on RLBL you'll probably want a 42. Also, $500 is too much to pay for a used suit (I think $0 is too much for someone else's used suit, but I digress...) when you can get any RLBL other than the navy/charcoal/black staples for about $800 by season's end.

Well I don't mind paying $500 for a used suit worn 4 times in perfect condition... but that is subjective and besides the point.

As for sizing up... I really don't think that is an option considering the shoulders. If I have to size up, then RLBL just isnt the cut for me.

As far as letting out the jacket... what did you think needed to be done? I was thinking most of the work needed to be done in the pants... with maybe a tiny bit needed in the jacket (which shouldn't be a problem).