Critique needed for fitted-cut suit in 21 oz twill

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Svenn, Aug 4, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    You like it, the mucked-up open quarters?

    Correct front balance would likely solve that problem.
     


  2. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,419
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    Why would you make a military/hard-cut suit with natural shoulders?
     


  3. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    i think he is just standing too erect for the pics
     


  4. KingOfTheForum

    KingOfTheForum Senior member

    Messages:
    274
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
    How much more slim do you want the suit to be? That's a pretty close fit. Going further may cause that dimple on the right side of your chest to become more noticeable.

    One of my concerns is with the issues in the back of the jacket. There's too much ruffling back there. It needs to be cleaned up. Even worse, the pants are a disaster. Look at how much extra length there is. That's ugly.....
     


  5. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Likes Received:
    310
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    i think he is just standing too erect for the pics

    Yeah, he mentioned something about a tailor, which probably means it was cut for his normal more slouched stance, not this perfectly straight pose in the pictures.
     


  6. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

    Messages:
    243
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2008
    Yeah, the balance problem is making the hips appear larger than the chest. That and your shoulders/chest do not appear so structured in this jacket. Foofy's adjustment is much improved, but you should note that you're not built like those huntsman jackets. Your shoulders and chest are not as broad relative to your hips, and your tailor can only flatter what you have, not give you what you don't. Also, huntsman quarters are cut at more of an "angle" than a "curve" from the buttoning point - again, refer to the foofed version.

    Those trousers look long ... but are you wearing your trousers at the right height?
     


  7. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2008
    [​IMG]
    Yeah, the balance problem is making the hips appear larger than the chest. That and your shoulders/chest do not appear so structured in this jacket. Foofy's adjustment is much improved, but you should note that you're not built like those huntsman jackets. Your shoulders and chest are not as broad relative to your hips, and your tailor can only flatter what you have, not give you what you don't. Also, huntsman quarters are cut at more of an "angle" than a "curve" from the buttoning point - again, refer to the foofed version.
    Thanks guys, this is actually a huge help. I just went to my second tailor and he agreed with your assessments. Unfortunately he's not an alterationist, so I can't show my improved Foofed version anytime soon, but he is making me another suit with the changes. The waist thing is the most confounding part... I actually do have broad shoulders compared to my waist rs232, I'd post a pic of me in my underwear to prove it [​IMG] , but I do agree this suit seems to make it appear as if I have wide womanly hips compared to my shoulders. Perhaps I should tighten up, i.e. make the skirt area/quarters more fitted (without increasing the waist suppression, if that's possible)? My second tailor in his suit is moving the pockets up, and the waist supression point higher as well to effectuate that, maybe that's all it needs to de-womanize the waist.
     


  8. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,419
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    The waist thing is the most confounding part... I actually do have broad shoulders compared to my waist rs232, I'd post a pic of me in my underwear to prove it [​IMG] , but I do agree this suit seems to make it appear as if I have wide womanly hips compared to my shoulders. Perhaps I should tighten up, i.e. make the skirt area/quarters more fitted (without increasing the waist suppression, if that's possible)? My second tailor in his suit is moving the pockets up, and the waist supression point higher as well to effectuate that, maybe that's all it needs to de-womanize the waist.

    Consider a slightly extended shoulder--it minimizes the hips. The buttoning point already looks about as high as it should go.
     


  9. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

    Messages:
    984
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    Try to slightly lift your shoulders when taking photos.

    And shorten the shirt sleeves..
     


  10. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2008
    Consider a slightly extended shoulder--it minimizes the hips. The buttoning point already looks about as high as it should go.

    Actually my tailor will be lowering the button point, but raising the point of the waist suppression. The two don't have to be in the same place I believe.

    I know extending the shoulders would help with the proportions, but I don't like the look of overly-built shoulders, and the effects it has on mobility.
     


  11. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,419
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    I know extending the shoulders would help with the proportions, but I don't like the look of overly-built shoulders, and the effects it has on mobility.

    For some reason, there's a current of thought here that the only options for a suit are 1)totally natural and unpadded, and 2)overly-built. There is, in fact, a happy medium. Mobility shouldn't be a serious concern--to the contrary, the 30s, age of supreme mobility in tailored clothing, was also the age of extended shoulders. Besides, if you want a hard military cut, you may as well accept a strong shoulder.
     


  12. Mr. Tweed

    Mr. Tweed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    May 14, 2009
    +1: Unpadded shoulders will never give a military cut look.

    Also, the pocket placement look a bit off to me. If you choose to go with hacking pockets and a ticket pocket (a nice touch I think) they must be placed a little further out. The size of the flaps and the angle looks fine, but for placement, show your tailor the Huntsman pictures...

    Yours,
    Mr. Tweed
     


  13. cgardel

    cgardel Senior member

    Messages:
    164
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008


  14. cgardel

    cgardel Senior member

    Messages:
    164
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    [​IMG] Are those the shoes you wore to the tailor? I recall you asking about height-increasing shoes sometime back and I think I see that sort of shoe in these photos (heel seems tall, etc.). Please correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, perhaps this is the cause of the length problem with the trousers?
     


  15. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

    Messages:
    12,643
    Likes Received:
    1,709
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Location:
    Princeton, NJ
    Svenn, I think you might be going overboard in slimness, this suit looks good with a few exceptions. The back seems too tight around the waist, I think it needs to be let to alleviate the breaking that's happening. The changes that manton and foo mentioned should also be made and the pants need to be shortened. For trial number one I think he did right by you, a couple points: Ditch the hacking pockets, that's whats making you feel like you have a 'womans hips' issue. For a man trying to acheive a military look you have no business wearing a windsor knot [​IMG]
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by