Critique needed for fitted-cut suit in 21 oz twill

[Svenn]

Would appreciate any specific alterations instructions to get my attempt at a fitted, military/hard cut suit below to match the model pictures below that inspired it. Sorry for the poor quality of the pics, but there are marked depressions/pull marks across the small of the back, and some across the chest (which are hard to see). I was told the trousers need to be let out at the bottom more (flare) so they break cleaner?

Anyway, couldn't the whole jacket be brought in closer to my body everywhere? Could an alterations tailor do that?

btw the 20/21 oz weight is not as hot as I thought at all, though it didn't mask divots/tug marks as much as I thought it would.

armholes pics, got them as high as the tailor would go...and there's no shoulder padding either:

 

[Maccimus]

Svenn I love the fabrics.
The front is good enough but honestly speaking the back is far from OK.

 

[BeaconHillBoston]

Looks good from the front.

To me, the tie is to wide and the knot is to large for your face. My eyes are drawn directly to the tie instead of flowing up to your face.

 

[literasyme]

Re. the pants -- this sounds like nonsense to me. They're too long (fabric is stacking up). You could ask them to angle the bottom seam if you'd like them a bit longer in the back, but I don't understand why they should have to be boot cut.

The coat looks plenty tight already; not sure why you'd want it to be even more close-fitting. You still need to be able to move, esp. your arms. Suiting isn't like a knit jumper, after all: far less give and stretch in the material, so it needs to be cut a little less skin-tight. Your coat certainly appears too snug in the waist, though not in the seat area. One of the tailors on the forum should be able to diagnose this properly -- I'm a little flummoxed by the crease patterns on either side of your lower back. Could it be that there's a mismatch between the way the jacket curves and how your back is shaped?

 

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by literasyme

Could it be that there's a mismatch between the way the jacket curves and how your back is shaped?
I hope it can be fixed by leaning forward a bit.

 

[GucciKid]

Front looks pretty good. I don't think you'd want to take it in anymore. The back balance looks off. On your next commission I would also consider going shorter on the jacket length, this length is too long for you in my opinion.

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by literasyme

Your coat certainly appears too snug in the waist, though not in the seat area.

I thought too the skirt area looks a little large somehow, implying i have womanly hips which I don't. However at the same time the jacket seems to lack the flared skirt I admire in Savile Row suits.

There is definitely a mismatch between the curve of the back on the jacket and my natural curve... I also think perhaps the waist suppression should be a tad higher up on my torso... my intention was to have a low button stance yet a high waist suppression, since I wanted a fitted look yet still be able to get a waistcoat to peak out above the low stance.

What do you guys think of 'opening up the quarters' more? (increasing the spread below the button).

 

[dragon8]

The frontl ooks nice but the back is off. Is that your normal stance? The pants are long and could be shortened. 21oz!?

 

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by Svenn

I thought too the skirt area looks a little large somehow, implying i have womanly hips which I don't. However at the same time the jacket seems to lack the flared skirt I admire in Savile Row suits.

There is definitely a mismatch between the curve of the back on the jacket and my natural curve... I also think perhaps the waist suppression should be a tad higher up on my torso... my intention was to have a low button stance yet a high waist suppression, since I wanted a fitted look yet still be able to get a waistcoat to peak out above the low stance.

What do you guys think of 'opening up the quarters' more? (increasing the spread below the button).

The quarter openning is fine. If the back can not be improved by leaning forward a bit, it would not be acceptable to me. I would ask the tailor to fix it immediately and effectively.

Are the shoulders not padded at all? Maybe I should try this next time?

 

[bowtielover]

The jacket looks great, but the pants are a bit baggy. I would have them pegged in slightly on the siedes and perhaps shortened a bit as well.

 

[ColeFieldHouse]

You should have padded your right shoulder to even it out with your left.

 

[TheFoo]

Sorry, but this looks really bad to me. I can't remember the last time a suit posted on the forum had a worse front-back balance problem. It's already way too tight, so please don't try to make it any leaner. Also, the collar is too low and loose on your neck. That said, the sleeves look pretty nicely done.

 

[TheFoo]

In addition to what I pointed out earlier, I think there's also something wrong with the way the quarters are cut. It looks as if the tailor simply "opened" them after already cutting them to be more closed. Notice the large overlap and how the cutaway begins very abruptly below the buttoning point. Also, I think a lower buttoning point would be more flattering. I'm no tailor, but I feel comfortable saying that yours is off-his-rocker if he thinks you need more length on your trousers.

 

[Manton]

Simple balance problem, short front, long back.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

Simple balance problem, short front, long back.

You like it, the mucked-up open quarters?