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Critique my suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dah328, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    The following are pics from my latest WW Chan order -- a 2B SB suit in a Vitale Barberis 120s charcoal herringbone. Â It's my third suit from Chan and I asked them for more waist suppression and shorter sleeves. Â I think the sleeves are still too long and I'm not sure what I think about the waist suppression, yet. Â I also think the jacket would benefit from more open front quarters. The suit has been steamed but not pressed, so I'm not sure if the ripples on the back of the jacket and the lay of the vent will improve after a pressing. Any and all comments and criticisms welcome. Â I'm especially interested in fit and silhouette details. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] dan
     
  2. gardel

    gardel Well-Known Member

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    The sleeves need to be shorter.
     
  3. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

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    I'd take the sleeves in, especially if you want them on the short side.
     
  4. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Looks pretty good, but what stands out most to me is the sleeve caps at the shoulders. I think they look a little odd, but I don't know how it would be fixed. Maybe take the top of the sleeve up a smidge to get rid of that indentation? And the sleeves are obviously a bit long.

    Otherwise, I really like it.
     
  5. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Best Chan suit I've seen so far. Nice, modern lapel, great button stance too. The pants look a bit baggy for my taste, with too much break. Since this is your third suit, I'm guessing there is a learning curve with Chan. We've seen some way off the mark first timers on here; yours is spot on.

    Other points: good use of a pocket square. Your tie knot is too big, just use a FIH. I hate that tie (Is it Charvet?, looks like it). Try a skinnier tie with that suit; 3.5" would be a good width.

    As for the silhouette, it's conservative. It's not highly stylized by any means. After seeing all the Chan customer pics on here, I've come to the conclusion that they are a good substitute for Zegna, Boss, Hickey Freeman, Canali, Cornelliani, Donna Karan, etc... If you are looking for something in terms of styling like Kiton, Barbera, RL Black Label, Jil Sander, or any other fashion suit, you will be disapointed.
     
  6. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Overall, this is a very nice suit. I see what you mean about more open quarters and about the sleeves. A more open look could be nice; the sleeves have to be shortened. I agree with the last poster that the pants could be narrower. The jacket looks fairly trim, so the pants look a little too full and make you look stocky.
     
  7. bch

    bch Senior member

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    Agreed. There appears to be an inward indentation just below the outer edge of the shoulder pad. This is excess material, and it is fixed by lifting the fabric on the outside of the arm. It's a moderate job that can be done by a competent tailor. It's happened to me several times, and all worked out OK.
     
  8. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Nice suit. But I have one comment.

    Your suit seems to have the same issue that I have with most of my OTR suits. From your pics, I can tell there is a break (or kink) between the sleeve head and the sleeve. This tells me that something is little tight around the shoulder area. With me, my top tricepts and shoulders buldge out, so the fit of shoulders are usually tight, causing those breaks that you see.
     
  9. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    Nice waist to that jacket Dan.

    I'll have to try Chan one of these days when the funds, and job, permit such an expenditure.
     
  10. redtree00

    redtree00 Senior member

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    Overall nice suit.
    My comments are similar to the others.
    Trousers are too full from the knee down, you need more of a taper.
    Sleeves are too long.
    You are not standing straight so it is hard to tell for sure but it looks like the shoulder extends too far and that might be causing the dent on the upper sleeve.
     
  11. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Just buy some normal shoes.
     
  12. gardel

    gardel Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't figure out what you were going on about so I downloaded the photos and lightened them. The photos are a bit unsharp. I can't make out much detail in the shoes. But I do see they are your favorite color. Is that it?
     
  13. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    (ernest @ June 04 2005,20:38) Just buy some normal shoes.
    I couldn't figure out what you were going on about so I downloaded the photos and lightened them. The photos are a bit unsharp. I can't make out much detail in the shoes. But I do see they are your favorite color. Is that it?
    Where are the laces?
     
  14. gardel

    gardel Well-Known Member

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    I did a bit of image enhancement.... [​IMG] The original image is a bit dark. I wouldn't normally do this to someone's image, Dan, but I'm defending your shoes so I hope you don't mind.
     
  15. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Ok, they look more normal here. I thought they were boots...
     
  16. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    (gardel @ June 05 2005,06:16) I did a bit of image enhancement.... The original image is a bit dark. I wouldn't normally do this to someone's image, Dan, but I'm defending your shoes so I hope you don't mind.
    Ok, they look more normal here. I thought they were  boots...
    Normal? I guess normal if you live on a farm...
     
  17. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I have those same "deltoid dents" on some of my WW Chan suits. They seem to be more pronounced on lighter cloths, when a lot of shoulder padding is used (their default shoulder). The dent occurs in the space below the shoulder pad and above the swell of the deltoid. If it bothers you, you can probably avoid it by using less shoulder padding, or (at least, so I imagine) by having them tweak the shoulder and sleeve measurements so that there is a shorter overhang on the shoulder pad.
     
  18. Panzeraxe

    Panzeraxe Senior member

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    The tie knot is just fine - I prefer larger more prominent knots myself. I have the same tie - its a Carlo Franco cashmere/silk blend - Mike, I think Chuck may want to have a few words with you because of that comment [​IMG] Panzer
     
  19. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Thanks for all the comments.  You guys make some really good points about some things I hadn't noticed.

    To answer a few questions --

    This is my third Chan suit but my first was done with multiple fittings while I was in Hong Kong so none have been far off.

    I'll see what, if anything, can be done about the bagginess of the trousers.  I am somewhat stocky, especially through the hips and thighs, from years of soccer.  I don't know how much more they can taper the trousers without throwing off the balance.  As for the break, I admit that it looks like too much from the photos.  I show more sock than I like when walking, but I'll take a closer look at that, too.

    As Panzeraxe points out, the tie is a Carlo Franco cashmere/silk blend.

    My photography skills aren't the greatest, so even with enhancement, Gardel couldn't see my antique dark brown Weymouths. Apparently, Ernest is not fond of those.

    dan
     
  20. boston

    boston Senior member

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    nice suit.

    sleeves are a little long.

    and I would not worry about your trousers. they may be a little baggy below the knee, but if they just looked long in the picture it's more important that they fit well.

    well done.

    -boston
     

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