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Critique my suit and jantzen shirt.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by edmorel, Apr 17, 2006.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I am in the process of changing tailors and I will be using this suit from my current guy as a template for my new one. Thoughts on the jacket? I'm going to go with higher armholes and open quarters but how is the current lapel width and shouldn't the chest be more taken in? I think the length and shoulders are fine. Since I just put this Jantzen on for the pic, please feel free to critique it also. For my next shirts I am getting cuffs with bigger wrist allowances, higher armholes and about another inch or two taken in the chest and waist.
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  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Shirt- I think that you need to decrease the shoulders and the chest, and lengthen the undersleeve (raise the armhole). The V of shirt that shows should lie very clean and almost canvas like. I dont like to see any extra fabric in that area. You could bring in the waist or not, but the upper half needs to be trimmer. The seam should be on you shoulder line, not dropped down on the arm.

    Jacket- Looks really good other than a funny thing going on with the lapel roll. For my taste, the quarters should be opened a bit. You could go a little longer in length, but I like the slightly short fit of the jacket and wear mine that way.
     


  3. whnay.

    whnay. Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    lapels seem wide, I'd say narrow them a bit, maybe round out the shoulders. Everything else looks fine e.
     


  4. Tomasso

    Tomasso Distinguished Member

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    Thoughts on the jacket? how is the current lapel width

    Which lapel, the right or the left? Your lapel roll has a 2" discrepancy, which makes the right lapel commensurately larger.

    I agree with your thoughts on the shirt adjustments.
     


  5. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Which lapel, the right or the left? Your lapel roll has a 2" discrepancy, which makes the right lapel commensurately larger.

    I agree with your thoughts on the shirt adjustments.


    The jacket was changed from a "hard" roll to the top button to a roll to the second button. It has been pressed since and it had another item hanging on it in my closet, which I think causes the discrepancy in the lapels.
     


  6. raley

    raley Senior Member

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    Ya, it almost looks like it was designed to be buttoned at the top. The roll seems a bit unnatural but maybe that is just the picture.
     


  7. fatherseanfan

    fatherseanfan Senior Member

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    Is it possible to have lapels narrowed?
     


  8. VMan

    VMan Distinguished Member

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    I like the suit a lot, and love that Jantzen fabric! Both nice additions to any wardrobe.
     


  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    Are you kind of sucking in and puffing out your chest in the first pic? Jackets can look like that when one does.... Kind of more closed quarters than you would want, a little less shape...
     


  10. chorse123

    chorse123 Stylish Dinosaur

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    The slightly more closed quarters don't bother me if this is for a suit. You could open then up a little, but it's fine. I think the lapel is a touch wide.

    Is that Checkers 613?
     


  11. Millerp

    Millerp Senior Member

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    Is it possible to have lapels narrowed?


    Yes. A good tailor can do so if there's no lapel buttonhole.
     


  12. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    The slightly more closed quarters don't bother me if this is for a suit. You could open then up a little, but it's fine. I think the lapel is a touch wide.

    Is that Checkers 613?


    It's actually checkers 229 which Jantzen calls "White with Rose Pink Small Squares" but I would say that it is actually light red squares and small is an understatement! The jacket is from a suit. After finding this forum, I hate all my suits and will be getting rid of them and going with a open quarters jacket with high armholes, roped shoulders and slim sleeves. To be fair to the guy who made this suit, it was a three button roll to the top button and then I had it changed and that probably contributed to the wide lapels as they were not that way before.

    iammatt and whnay, thanks for the suggestions as that will help me with the new tailor.

    zjpj83, I am kind of standing unnaturally. I raised my shoulders for some reason.

    Versaceman, thanks for the compliment.
     


  13. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Distinguished Member

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    Why is left lepal rolls so prematurely?
     


  14. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Why is left lepal rolls so prematurely?

    The suit had another item pressing against that lapel in my closet for quite awhile. It would look better if I pressed/steamed the lapel to roll correctly.
     


  15. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Distinguished Member

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    Fix the lapel roll, then u are good to go!
     


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