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Critique my shirt!

Holdfast

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OK, my turn for this sort of thread.

Once through the washer-dryer & iron and I have a (long)short-list of changes I'd like to make but will wait for another round of cleaning & ironing before finalising them and talking to the shirtmaker, but I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts first.

The brief was a shirt that's comfortable, flattering either with tie or without and trim/smart but NOT skinny/tight. It will not be worn untucked, but I posted those pics to give a better idea of the overall shirt.





 

Star

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I think you wear your pants too high.
 

Cary Grant

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You look good, brother. In terms of trim, it looks like maybe you'd want it no tighter across the chest and shoulders but maybe just a wee bit less material between the belt and chest? But looks nice as is to me.
 

LeonM

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There seems to be excess fabric on the right shoulder, as if to allow for an apparent dropped left shoulder, the right shoulder was also extended. Similarly the right sleeve looks longer.

Leon
 

Mr.K

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Shirt does look pretty good. I myself do like them a little more form fitting, but that is my choice. The right sleeve does look a bit longer than the left. Over all if you are happy it looks like you got a good shirt that with minor tweeks could be just right.
 

forsbergacct2000

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I like the shirt, but then, I can't imagine you buying anything I don't think is tasteful.


(Once gene therapy is perfected, you could probably make a fortune with gene therapy to correct peoples' lack of fashion sense!)
 

Shirtmaven

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lots of little things but over all good.
Your posture does not make it easy.
you have sway posture. add some darts will help the fullness in your lower back.
you have a narrow chest and wide shoulders that pull forward.
the chest measurment seems fine. the yoke measurement is too short. and the yoke needs to come forward.

sleeves might be a tad short, but the cuffs seem too big. are you wearing a llarge watch.

where was the shirt made?
Carl
 

Holdfast

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Thank you all for the feedback. Everything is appreciated; even the advice to wear my trousers lower (though I don't think I'll take up that particular piece of advice). This is my first time with bespoke shirts, so I don't have the same frame of reference as I do with suits for helping me decide what needs changing.

For those asking, the shirt is by Rayner & Sturges, with the measuring done by Glenn Ludlow of Sartorial Executive. I live just within his range for measuring visits, which together with already low prices made it a very cost-effective option for me, compared to travelling to London to one of the big names.

I'll certainly be talking with him re: what changes need making before the rest of the order is done, but I'm not unhappy with this first iteration. It's a good start IMO & certainly better fitting than 95%+ of the rest of my shirts.

Having said that, there are changes I'm thinking of making and that's why I started this thread, to help me think things through a bit before chatting with him.

My notes so far... advice GREATLY appreciated.

Sleeves:

- the length is actually fine for me on both sleeves. It doesn't feel short or uneven, though we'll see what it's like after a second laundry. The left cuff is marginally bigger than the right, to account for the fact I sometimes wear a Seamaster, though more commonly I wear a thin Longines.
- shorter cuffs - they currently measure to 3.25" and for my height, I'm thinking 2.75" might be more flattering.
- gauntlet placket seems inordinately long, meaning the "split" is too long. It currently measures about 7.5" from tip of placket to start of cuff and my other shirts are about 6.25", so shortening this seems like it would be a bit more flattering.
- when I cross my arms, my elbows seem to press against the fabric quite a bit. I don't know if this will result in premature wear and whether an extra 0.25" circumference here might solve that problem

Body:

- As Shirtmaven and LeonM point out, my posture absolutely stinks; I need to do some back exercises! I'm grateful for their notes below in particular. What I feel is exactly what Carl points out as "shoulders pulling forward". The chest itself seems OK and does does the top of shoulder measurement but it's like the distance horizontally the middle of my back is too narrow. It doesn't feel like things are too tight in 90% of normal movement, rather that there's a subtle tightness across the back when I hunch/tense forward. Carl, is this what you mean by the yoke needing "coming forward"? What measurement actually needs altering to achieve this - the yoke measure itself? I'm thinking an extra 0.25" or 0.5" here might solve it.
- will probably add an extra 0.5" or 1" to overall length (will also help bring the ends of side seam down; they're a touch high at the moment I feel).

Collar:

- Possibly needs to be 0.25" or 1/8" tighter (will determine for sure after second laundry).
- I'm also thinking about making the points 0.25" longer and narrowing the spread by about 5 degrees to flatter me better.

Miscellaneous:

- not sure if I want gauntlet placket buttons or not (will decide after getting a shirt with the gauntlet shortened)
- no horizontal bottom buttonhole; might ask for this in future

Any other ideas?




Originally Posted by Shirtmaven
lots of little things but over all good.
Your posture does not make it easy.
you have sway posture. add some darts will help the fullness in your lower back.
you have a narrow chest and wide shoulders that pull forward.
the chest measurment seems fine. the yoke measurement is too short. and the yoke needs to come forward.

sleeves might be a tad short, but the cuffs seem too big. are you wearing a llarge watch.


Originally Posted by LeonM
There seems to be excess fabric on the right shoulder, as if to allow for an apparent dropped left shoulder, the right shoulder was also extended. Similarly the right sleeve looks longer.

Leon
 

yamazs

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You've got something on your face...


but seriously the fit looks good... better posture though...
 

litho

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is it slightly too short in length?
 

BigHandMan

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Originally Posted by Shirtmaven
lots of little things but over all good.
Your posture does not make it easy.
you have sway posture. add some darts will help the fullness in your lower back.
you have a narrow chest and wide shoulders that pull forward.
the chest measurment seems fine. the yoke measurement is too short. and the yoke needs to come forward.

sleeves might be a tad short, but the cuffs seem too big. are you wearing a llarge watch.

where was the shirt made?
Carl


Carl, I'm amazed at how much you pick up just from a few images. Seriously.
 

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