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Critique my new suit

CommercialDoc

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SF members, I have just received my bespoke(?) suit from ... I write "bespoke(?)" because I had three fittings by their master tailor but the suits are not made by the master tailor himself but in more of a bespoke assembly line with different people making the suit in stages. I would imagine that the more high-end bespoke experience involves a single tailor from start to finish but maybe I am wrong.

I was measured first. I then returned to try on a canvas shell(?). Third I had a canvas suit with sleeves adjusted and pinned and tried on a fully constructed pair of pants. Finally, the finished suit was tweaked for fit.

Overall it was a good experience and I am happy with the result but I have some things I am disappointed with. The suit was shipped to me and has been hanging for about 24 hours now.

Without further ado please let loose with the critique. I have two fabrics waiting to be made into my next two suits and want to make sure I make all of the necessary tweaks.





 

demeis

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Its hard to tell the fit but some of the pictures you seem to be in somewhat weird poses that make the suit look differently
 

drake

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The shoulders look too wide, the armholes look gigantic, and the coat has no shape.

Hope I don't come off as a dick, but unless you like this look, I would find another tailor.
 

scnupe7

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Originally Posted by drake
The shoulders look too wide, the armholes look gigantic, and the coat has no shape.

Hope I don't come off as a dick, but unless you like this look, I would find another tailor.



+1. You should definitely go back and have him fix the shoulders, armholes and suppression. The trousers are pretty baggy for my taste also.
 

teddieriley

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Yah, the shoulders appear too wide and the armholes look big. I'm definitely not an expert, but these two things were immediately noticeable, based on what I look for in a suit. The jacket doesn't have the appearance of a tailored fit. Now if this was the look you were going for, then that's cool. It doesn't look bad. But if that's what you wanted, you didn't get it. I don't know if these two points are correctable now (most likely not), but I think that will be the basis of the majority of the critiques here.
 

gefinzi

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Agree that the shoulders don't look good.

I hope that doesn't bum you out too much most of us have had misfires, in the last 5 years I've had 2-3 suits that fall in that category.

Judging from the pics and my assumption that the suit wasn't cheap I think you can find a better firm to do the job for the money.
 

gefinzi

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Agree that the shoulders don't look good.

I hope that doesn't bum you out too much most of us have had misfires, in the last 5 years I've had 2-3 suits that fall in that category.

Judging from the pics and my assumption that the suit wasn't cheap I think you can find a better firm to do the job for the money.
 

CommercialDoc

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No offense taken. This is in line with my thinking and disappointment.

Please keep the comments coming so I can attempt to get things straightened out.
 

TheFoo

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To me, the most egregious thing is the shoulders. They are way too wide--and a too boxy for my taste, but yours my differ.

I agree with the comments that the jacket does not have enough shape. A little waist supression would help alot. It's hard to tell about the armholes being high enough or small enough in your photos.

I'd add that the jacket appears too long by about an inch or two and the lapels don't have any roll to them at all. The legs have no shape at all and appear to have too much width at the thighs.

Overall, it is a very conservative suit and that may be precisely what you want. If it were me, I'd want something with a little more drama: narrower, softer shoulders, some artful drape across the chest, a healthy dose of waist suppression, some more shaping in back, narrower legs, etc.
 

Memphis

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It appears to me the sholders are to wide at the top and the curvature of the yolk is not matching your profile. The pants look spot on though.

It might be a little late but I use a shop called Red Barn in Pittsford, NY for Lorenzini shirts and other garments, they also have great tailors with years of experience. Ask for Ed and tell him Jeff (or as me knows me from New Years "crazy story Jeff") from Indiana sent you. Very good guys and extremely versed with their products.
 

Leslierc

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Originally Posted by drake
The shoulders look too wide, the armholes look gigantic, and the coat has no shape.

Hope I don't come off as a dick, but unless you like this look, I would find another tailor.


I agree. My first thought when I saw the pictures was that there was no shape to the jacket. There's way too much extra fabric on the jacket in my opinion.
 

Dragon

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I apologize in advance if I sound negative, but I bet you have some RTW suits that fit better than this bespoke.

I think this is an example of how bespoke can be worse than a good fitting RTW ,or RTW with alterations.

Rather than trying to work out the fit with this bespoke tailor, I would move on to a completely different tailor. Unfortunately, there are too many things to fix.
 

CommercialDoc

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I am hoping I can have them fix what is wrong as I have put deposits on two Dormeuil fabrics I purchased at their trunk show.

FYI - they get decent press - ...
 

scnupe7

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Originally Posted by CommercialDoc
I am hoping I can have them fix what is wrong as I have put deposits on two Dormeuil fabrics I purchased at their trunk show.

FYI - they get decent press - http://www.lilesclothingstudio.com/article_robb.htm



I have made this mistake before. Please make sure you are 100% satisfied with this suit before you purchase another. Especially given the price range that is mentioned in the article.
 
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See if you can just buy the fabrics outright and go to another tailor for a CMT job. Try to get them to put this right, but I wouldnt go back there for a second helping.
 

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