Critique My Jantzen.. Yet another..

[briancl]

Ricky is really cranking these out now with all of the new Critique My.. posts. Anyway, here is mine. This is laundered twice and worn out twice, so I have a good idea for how it wears and feels.

I'm planning on increasing the hip diameter by 1/2", reducing the sleeve cuff diameter by 1/4" on each side, and increasing the shoulder measurement by 1" total, so the armhole will drop by 1/2" on each side. I'll keep the overall sleeve measurement (from midback to end of sleeve) constant, so only the armhole will move.

My goals for the alteration:

- Reduce bunching at waistline (less snug hip, so the shirt won't ride up. more fabric will stay tucked)
- Reduce bunching at upper arm and around collar bone (shoulder moving closer to natural shoulder)
- Keep cuff from falling too far down the hand (reduce cuff diameter)

I apologize for the washed out pics. They were really dark, so I had to increase the brightness and contrast.

 

[lawyerdad]

Pretty good. You could possibly do with shortening the sleeves 1/4" to avoid bunching when you narrow the cuffs (if you wear a wristwatch consider whether you want some extra room on that side), but it's fine how it is. And since you'll be changing the shoulder, I'd hold that variable constant and see how the shoulder change impacts the way the sleeves fall.

I'd definitely move the shoulders out a bit, as you suggest. A full inch sounds like a lot, but I'm bad at those sorts of estimates. It actually looks like the shoulder are a bit uneven (that is, it looks like the right shoulder could moved out a bit more than the left), but that could just be the angle.

Neck size looks good, and I think that's a good collar choice for you. Sizing through the torso looks pretty good. Good luck with the waist "bunching" -- which does not look extreme to me in the picture. In my experience, unless the shirt is very tight-fitting that tends to happen more with jeans, since they sit so much lower than dress pants.

 

[Brian278]

I agree with all your adjustments, though it looks pretty good now. Can I ask what fabric, collar interlining, and fit (tight, form, etc.) you chose?

 

[Shirtmaven]

the yoke measuremt is really short!
I would add 1.5 to the yoke and add a little to the chest as well at least 1.5 as well..

Carl

 

[wq1999]

It looks like the shoulders could be expanded by more than an inch. Possibly 1.5". For me, I like my shoulder seams to hit right at the top of my natural shoulder. But I suppose it's a matter of personal taste.

 

[spreadcollar]

You know, I usually read these threads to laugh, but you've done a pretty good job. You probably need to add more than 1" to the shoulder.

 

[stickonatree]

add to the shoulder 1.5" on each side, and take off either some width or some length from the sleeve!

 

[briancl]

Cool. Thanks guys. I'll do a small order with my adjustments and see how it goes.

Brian278 - Fit was "tight" and measurements were taken from an existing shirt where appropriate. I also put a note in the comments field to let Ricky know I wash and dry all of my shirts, so he should allow for some shrinkage. This is the fabric:

Jantzen*2071,
White Fine Twill with Light Blue Squares,
120's, 2 Ply,
100% Italian Cotton

And it has a good feel, but not like some of my higher quality shirts from Chan or Hemrajani.

The collar interlining is Hard (I wash my own stuff, so it should hold up), and I selected edge stitching.

 

[houserichichi]

I have one in that fabric coming to me...thanks for reassuring me of the look. How's the hand compare to some other popular shirtings?