"Critique my Jantzen" thread #5872

[Etienne]

I recently received my third Jantzen.

The first two times, I got very valuable advice (see my second thread here : http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...hlight=jantzen; first one was lost in the crash). This should be my last request for advice... You can click on the photos to see them full scale.

1/ Turnaround time

The first shirt was ordered on the 11th of November 2005, order renewed on the 12th of December (I called and they had lost my order), received 30th of December.

The second shirt was ordered on the 14th of February 2006, received at the end of March.

The third shirt was ordered on the 8th of May 2006, I called on the 12th of July to learn that it was delayed due to the fabric not being available - I sent another choice of fabric and received the shirt about one month later.

2/ My first shirt

Here are a few photos of my first shirt after having been laundered twice:


Fabric was JKT #0027, Blue Herringbone with Black Stitched Stripes, 110's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton, which is often acclaimed here, and it was gorgeous.

No big problems with that shirt apart from the sleeves (much too short).

My changes after that were :

• take the shoulders in a tad
  
• lengthen the sleeves
  
• tighten the waist (an unfortunate choice it turns out)
  
• widen the hips

3/ My second order

Here's my second Jantzen photographed (again, after having been laundered twice):


That second offering actually felt worse than the first (in part due to the fabric, no doubt). Much too tight.

My main changes after that were :

• lengthen the sleeves still
  
• widen the chest, waist and hips and collar

4/ My third order

Here's the actual order :

Shirt Length: 32
Chest: 40
Waist: 34
Hip: 38.5
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Sleeve Length: 38.5
Neck: 17
Height: 6 feet 4
Weight: 190
Wrist Size ( No Allowance): 7
Special for Thicker Watch: Left Hand 1/2" Bigger
Shirt Fitting: Form (4"-6" Allowance)
Share of Shoulder: Regular Shoulder
Shade of Body: Normal Shade
Collar Style: Collar Style # 4, (Spread)
Collar Stay: Removable Collar Stay
Interlining: Regular
Tie space: 1/8" (Standard)
Back Height: 1 3/4" (High)
Stitching for Collar & Cuff: Edge Stitching (Unique)
Collar Point: 3 1/2" (Long)
Color of Button Hole and Button Thread: Self Colour
Cuff Style: French Cuff Style #4D (Round)
Contract Collar: Self Collar & Cuff
Cuff Height: 2 3/4" (Standard)
Pocket Style : Select one
Number of Pocket: No Pocket
Front Placket: Plain Front
Width of Placket: 1 3/8 (Our Standard)
Sleeve: Long Sleeve
Sleeves **** Extra Button: With Sleeves Extra Button
Shirt Tail: Regular Tail
Shoulder Pleat: No Pleat
Select one: With Split Yoke
Gusset Triangle Color: Self Colour
Button Seclections:: Thick Nature Mother of Pearl Button (3.00 mm) Thickness
Monogram Style: Monogram Style #9
Monogram Placing: Inside the Yoke
Initial: EC
Monogram Color: Self Colour

Fabric was JKT #0084, Pink 1 cm Herringbone, 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton. I loved it.

And here are some photos. I apologize for their poor quality. I had problems with my camera after the first shot. The shirt has been laundered once before the photos were taken.



5/ Further advice

I think I have more or less got it now. I might have overdone it with the sleeves, maybe one inch less was enough (as I had in my second order; I changed it because it did not show cuff with some of my longer jackets as you can see from the photos). What do you guys think? What about the shoulders?

 

[lawyerdad]

Shoulders look pretty good. I think I'd keep the sleeves as you have them - better to err on the side of long. You probably take the waist in a touch more.

 

[chorse123]

I found that with Jantzen, the greatest improvement of fit from one order to another was when I sent Ricky pictures. Yes, I made further changes and improved it, but it worked wonders.

 

[jml90]

Overall pretty damn good.

 

[Dragon]

I think the sleeves are too long

 

[acidboy]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I found that with Jantzen, the greatest improvement of fit from one order to another was when I sent Ricky pictures. Yes, I made further changes and improved it, but it worked wonders.

that is a very excellent idea!

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by Dragon

I think the sleeves are too long
Yes they are. My problem is this: the sleeves of the third shirt are only one inch longer than those of the second. As you can see, I have jackets with which I don't show cuff with the second shirt.

Maybe strike somewhere in the middle?

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I found that with Jantzen, the greatest improvement of fit from one order to another was when I sent Ricky pictures.
I sent pictures with my first order and my second, IIRC, he never alluded to them.

 

[Dragon]

Yes they are. My problem is this: the sleeves of the third shirt are only one inch longer than those of the second. As you can see, I have jackets with which I don't show cuff with the second shirt.

Maybe strike somewhere in the middle?

In my opinion, the sleeves on the 2nd order are too short as you can see when you bend your arm in this pic:

http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ntzen077ef.jpg

In the 3rd order, the sleeves look too long, but maybe you should take a second look at the cuffs:

http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=j34zo8.jpg

The cuffs in the above pic of the 3rd order are going past your wrists, which could mean that the diameter of the cuffs are too large. To me, they look more snug on the 2nd order, but it`s hard to tell from the pics.

Maybe you can keep the length on the 3rd order, but request that the button holes be changed so the cuffs fit more closely to your wrist. If the cuffs diameter fits correctly, there shouldn`t be such a big problem with extra length in the sleeve because the shirt will stop at your wrist anyway. Also, having the extra length will be better when you bend your arms.

 

[brozek]

I was just thinking about putting my first order in and couldn't decide between Form and Tight for the closeness. Your Form-fitting shirt in the third photo looks looser than I want mine to be - does anyone have experience ordering a Tight-fitting shirt from them?

 

[Shirtmaven]

you have a low right shoulder.

The cuffs do look to large. Jantzen fuses the cuffs. they will continue to shrink over time.

You should take the time to press the shirt before photos.

Carl

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by brozek

Your Form-fitting shirt in the third photo looks looser than I want mine to be - does anyone have experience ordering a Tight-fitting shirt from them?
All three shirts are "Form-fitting", and as you can see the second was very snug... Too much so in fact. It looked good when standing but it was so tight the fabric was bunching around the buttons when sitting. That's why I loosened it a little.

Originally Posted by Dragon

The cuffs in the above pic of the 3rd order are going past your wrists, which could mean that the diameter of the cuffs are too large. To me, they look more snug on the 2nd order, but it`s hard to tell from the pics.
Here's what I ordered for the three shirts, in order.
Sleeves: 36.5, 37.5, 38.5
Right wrist: 6.5, 7, 7
Left wrist: 6.5, 7.5, 7.5

I don't know if there is anything I should tweak again. Reduce the wrist a little (second and third shirt supposedly have the same, but the third shirt looks wider)? Reduce the sleeve length also?

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

You should take the time to press the shirt before photos.
Yes, I'm really sorry about the poor quality of the photos from that third shirt. I will not be able to take more before two weeks, but maybe I'll try to revive the thread then.

Do you think I should ask for something specific for that right shoulder?

 

[ccffm1]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

you have a low right shoulder.

Maybe some kind of habit acquired during years of fencing? I have just the same problem.

 

[itsstillmatt]

IMO, you could narrow the shoulders just a bit. I prefer them to be up on the shoulder bone.

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by ccffm1

Maybe some kind of habit acquired during years of fencing? I have just the same problem.
I don't know, it's the first time I have ever noticed it.

But, "si non e vero, e bene trovatto": I don't know if fencing caused that problem, but that shall be my story!