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Critique my first Thick as Thieves Suit

Lemieux

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I received a package in the mail today from Thick as Thieves. Woo! I haven't pressed it yet, but I thought that I'd throw it up on SF for critique. I welcome any comments you have, esp. tweaks to improve the look. The suit is the traditional cut in the med/dark grey flannel. Props to Jason for answering questions quickly and delivering a nice product on time.
 

binge

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Maybe it's some lens distortion or something, but in the first shot (facing forward) the jacket looks a tad short; specifically from the bottom button to the bottom edge. That area looks disproportionately short compared to the rest of the coat above it.
 

OttoSkadelig

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surprisingly good for a MTM.

would suggest taking it in a bit at the waist, particularly given the slightly short style of the jacket (which i think looks fine.) without it, you look a bit top-heavy and boxy.

the shoulders could be a bit cleaner, and seems a bit too big, but perfectly ok.

there is a bit of excess fabric under your pits (rear) that can be cleaned up.

good job.
 

gomestar

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Originally Posted by binge
Maybe it's some lens distortion or something, but in the first shot (facing forward) the jacket looks a tad short; specifically from the bottom button to the bottom edge. That area looks disproportionately short compared to the rest of the coat above it.
+1, but I don't personally think it's too. Only some SF people will really notice and make a fuss about it. I would, however, have a tailor take the mid section in a bit. Overall, for the $450 or whatever it is these days, it looks far superior to the bespoke massacres posted in that Time Out NY article. Well done for a first try. Also, get your shoes shined.
 

hand-woven1

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I really wish you would have pressed the suit before posting.
I think the jacket is too short ( I'm old fasioned in this regard and don't get the Thick As Thieves house style, traditional or otherwise) Having said that, I think the jacket should be taken in around the middle. The sleeves and back seem bulky and could be trimmer. With those modifications and a good pressing I think you'll be good to go.
May I ask how much you paid for this suit?
 

DeanCorso

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I would agree with the comments that the length looks off. However, I don't think it's the actual length, so much as the proportion.

Maybe it's just the angle of the photos, but it looks like the features were built for a jacket 1/2"-1" longer, or that, particularly the top button, ought to move up 1/2" to balance things out. It would be less noticeable w/o the ticket pocket.

A second question: Probably just the photo, but are the angles of the pockets different? The one on your left side (right side of photo) seems angled up toward the middle, while the right pocket seems angled down toward the middle.

I don't mean to nit-pick your new suit. I think it looks good. Great considering the cost. It's a little boxy, but overall fits it you well.
 

KingOfTheForum

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The pants have a little more break than I'd recommend and there's too much material in the chest/back. Other than that, you're good to go. I'm not sure about your build, so I won't comment on the silhouette.


How much are TaT suits? I tried ordering one from Jason a while back, but he went MIA in the middle of the process.
 

Maccimus

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Why you guys think the length is off? It well covers OP's hip, and from the front view the proportion is quite OK. One inch longer and the legs would look shorter.
 

sonlegoman

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I think on technical terms, it is the correct length (give or take a few centimeters), but it appears short because of the proportions of the shoulders and the chest. Maybe it is the closed quarters and the low armholes but it appears that there is a lot of mass above the buttoning point and this makes the top look heavy.

If someone can foof out the ticket pocket, it appears to remove some of the clutter in the bottom half and it appears to make the bottom half appear more spacious and it seems to get rid of the appearance of a shorter bottom half (you can try this ad hoc by taking your finger and covering it on your comp screen).

With a ticket pocket, is it the norm for the buttoning point to go up a few centimeters? I always thought that's what tailors did. Someone who knows, can you answer this?

The back needs some extra work.

Just my two cents. But all in all, acceptable.
 

Parker

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Looks great. The short jacket is just the TaT short-skirt 60s aesthetic I think.

Nice shirt and tie pairing keeping it simple and monochrome... but I agree w gomestar, shine those shoes!
 

Lemieux

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Thanks for all the constructive comments! I really appreciate it.

My first thought when I put on the suit was how much shorter the jacket looked compared to what I'm used to, but as many people said, that's the TaT look. I opted for the traditional cut, so the jacket ends where it's advertised: at the middle thumb joint.

I did wonder whether the proportions were correct. I thought that maybe the pockets or the buttons should have been set a bit higher, but the more I look at the suit the more it grows on me. (Either that, or I can't really tell anymore...)

Maybe it's the ticket pocket that kinda affects the perception of it. I did a quick Photoshop job to take out the ticket pocket just to see how it looks.



I agree that the sides could be taken in at the middle to reduce the boxiness and give more shape.

I'd characterize my body type as "stocky". I have broad shoulders and a large chest. I'm not the typical/ideal TaT model, but Jason said that I just fit within their range.

For the fabric I selected (med/dark grey flannel #24), the price worked out to be $480 USD shipped to Canada.

I'll post pics once I get a chance to press the suit and have the middle taken in by a tailor. Thanks again for all the helpful comments! And yes, I've been meaning to get my shoes shined...
 

ghdtpdna

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Originally Posted by Lemieux
Thanks for all the constructive comments! I really appreciate it.

My first thought when I put on the suit was how much shorter the jacket looked compared to what I'm used to, but as many people said, that's the TaT look. I opted for the traditional cut, so the jacket ends where it's advertised: at the middle thumb joint.

I did wonder whether the proportions were correct. I thought that maybe the pockets or the buttons should have been set a bit higher, but the more I look at the suit the more it grows on me. (Either that, or I can't really tell anymore...)

Maybe it's the ticket pocket that kinda affects the perception of it. I did a quick Photoshop job to take out the ticket pocket just to see how it looks.



I agree that the sides could be taken in at the middle to reduce the boxiness and give more shape.

I'd characterize my body type as "stocky". I have broad shoulders and a large chest. I'm not the typical/ideal TaT model, but Jason said that I just fit within their range.

For the fabric I selected (med/dark grey flannel #24), the price worked out to be $480 USD shipped to Canada.

I'll post pics once I get a chance to press the suit and have the middle taken in by a tailor. Thanks again for all the helpful comments! And yes, I've been meaning to get my shoes shined...

I would say you are stocky but not really broad shouldered. Looks pretty good overall, other than the waist.
 

patrickBOOTH

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For doing measurements yourself and having it be your first stab at it, it is not bad. When you are not sure what kind of clearance you are going to get compared to what you prefer in certain areas it is a shot in the dark the first time around, especially since you're not talking to the tailor.
 

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