Critique my first bespoke suit, what do you think?

[madjbs]

Originally Posted by jrd617

You're not going to win many people over with that argument on this board. Tons of people that follow traditional rules for suits, and will say that some jackets are objectively too short. It's all about proportions. People can see your backside. It's an awkwardly cut jacket. It would be unfortunate if you showed up to a business meeting or court like that.

I am not trying to win anyone over, I am just pointing out the facts and subjectiveness in some peoples comments. The suit was not intended to be a business suit, but even if it was I very much doubt that many people would care anyway. I live in Asia so it really wouldn't matter at all here if the style of suit that I was wearing was deemed appropriate or not in a small number of fashion conscious westerners opinion.

 

[Kiwi Man]

Unlike what most other said, I think your suits fit quite well.

I agree with the post that if your suits were made to serve your demand, you shouldn't care too much about what people in the Internet said.

 

[jrd617]

You might as well go full Thom Browne and get cropped pants:

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by madjbs

I am tall and skinny.

That suit makes you look tall and fat.

I guess if that was your goal.

 

[madjbs]

Unlike what most other said, I think your suits fit quite well.

Thank you.

I was looking for some feedback to give to my tailor to improve the fit of the next suit. I probably should have posted on a tailoring forum instead of here where people are more likely to get fixated on individual style and the exact composition of the fabric. I think I was doomed ever since I said it contained 10% polyester!

I will upload some better photos and give my own balanced critique.

 

[madjbs]

That suit makes you look tall and fat.

HAHA

at 6'2" and 64 kg I can assure you nothing can make me look fat. I a photo maybe but certainly not in person.

 

[cioni2k]

Do you even realize what you are doing with this thread? Every time someone says something negative about your suit/the cut you have 2-3 responses as to why they are wrong. Then ask for non-biased opinions.

As soon as someone says they like it, you say something along the lines of how they understand the look you were going for and thank them for their opinion.

If you can't handle negative opinions/criticisms, don't bother making a thread at all.

 

[madjbs]

Not all criticism is equal. Can't you see that? I have already thanked some who have made constructive criticism, others are unable to provide that which is not surprising really.

Some of the comments I disagree with and some I think are too subjective. Are you unable to accept that?

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by madjbs

Not all criticism is equal. Can't you see that? I have already thanked some who have made constructive criticism, others are unable to provide that which is not surprising really. Some of the comments I disagree with and some I think are too subjective. Are you unable to accept that?
Just stop poasting. Remember what you asked initially:

So, what does the forum think? I am looking to get more suits from this tailor and would like to get my pattern dialed in.

The response: pattern is bad. Jacket is too short.

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by cioni2k

Do you even realize what you are doing with this thread? Every time someone says something negative about your suit/the cut you have 2-3 responses as to why they are wrong. Then ask for non-biased opinions.

As soon as someone says they like it, you say something along the lines of how they understand the look you were going for and thank them for their opinion.

If you can't handle negative opinions/criticisms, don't bother making a thread at all.

+1

 

[madjbs]

Here is a balanced fair criticism from myself.

Overall the suit fits pretty well considering the price. On this photo you can see that the fabric doesn't sit completely flat around the right side of my waist, which I would like to be addressed in my next commission. The jacket is also short which is what I was going for in this suit but on my next one I would probably go for something a little more conventional for business etc..

The trousers are ok but they don't compliment the short jacket enough in my opinion. I will ask the tailor to tapper them more making them more like the ones in the photo i posted earlier.

Generally ok except the back of the pants has a little too much slack and is too broken. I will have this adjust as well. The front line is nice and clean however.

The way that my arms are resting you can see some of the padding in shoulder. I think some of the padding should be removed which I will ask the tailor to do when he adjusts the pants. Generally the fit from the back is good though. This photo also shows the excess slack on the back of the pants.

I think that is a fair criticism and I thank the people who confirmed my thoughts that the pants should be adjusted to fit with the jacket better.

 

[zenbot]

Originally Posted by madjbs

Here is a balanced fair criticism from myself.
Perhaps, rather than posting on styleforum, you should consider posting on madjbsforum, where no doubt all criticism is fair & balanced, truly objective, and only coincidentally exactly in line with your own opinion.

 

[Jermyn]

Originally Posted by madjbs

When I posted here I was looking for people to give ideas about what I should tell the tailor too improve the next suit. I wasn't asking people to judge the style I am after as that is completely subjective. I dislike many of the suits posted on here but if that was the style they wanted then who am I to judge that. The same goes for the fabric.

So other than the cut and the fabric of the suit, what exactly are you looking for input on?

Your goal here seems a little unclear.

 

[Gent]

Originally Posted by madjbs

The jacket is the correct length. It is exactly the style I was going for. My pant's weren't pulled up properly in the original photo which make it look a little shorter than it actually is.

Well, as far as the suit fit goes, it's fairly atrocious.

There's something severely wrong with the sleeves. The back of your sleeves bunches up in a fairly hideous way. From the front it looked fairly ok, but side and rear photos show that they have big issues and look absolutely ridiculously bad. No cuff is showing on the sleeve, as your sleeves are slightly too long.

There's also something wrong on your pants in the rear, around the thigh area. The bunching there is butt-ugly in every sense of the word. Something's severely off, and to my untrained eye it seems like there's too little room in the upper thigh area. Adjusting the position (height) of your trousers might help a bit, but it's virtually guaranteed that they'll end up slipping down a bit, especially if you sit down. This means your bespoke number will look terrible unless you hitch your pants every minute.

Also, your pockets flare open, which seems to indicate further fit issues in the seat area. MIght be because you have fairly large hips for your size. The trousers are also too long, or maybe you need to hitch them every minute. Seems like too much bunching to fix even like that, as the seat doesn't look like it'll go any higher - or at least not that much.

Looking at the style you want, the biggest difference here is that your coat has no shape. You wanted a fitted shape, yet what you got looks baggy, ill-fitting and makes you look like a shapeless blob. That's probably what was meant when someone said it makes you look fat. Not fat in an overweight way, just fat in an undefined, unrefined, shapeless way, which contradicts the modern and short look you were after.

Poor execution.


As far as material goes, don't do polyester. Just don't. Forget the "oh, it's just 10%" salesman talk.

Just don't.


As far as the style goes, you just don't seem to understand what looks good a) in general, and b) on you.

So you want to go for the modern, short look. Not for everybody, but I won't debate that, as you seem to think style is entirely subjective. It's not, but I digress. However, your shape is unflattering for that purpose. You're tall, lean, have tiny shoulders and broad hips. A short coat will (and does) make your ass seem disproportionate and your shoulders nonexistant. A longer coat will cover up your problem area. A more defined waistline would give you some shape and lessen the visual effect of no shoulders, all hips.

To say this very clearly: the aesthetic you've chosen for yourself makes you look shapeless, or at best gives you a slightly effeminate silhouette.

You look really, really bad in that suit.

 

[pvrhye]

Tall guy like you with a short jacket ends up looking like you're wearing stilts. What asian country are you in? In Korea full-canvased isn't hard to get at all.