Critique my bespoke navy DB

[hymo]

Originally Posted by hymo

1. A 1/2" dart will be taken out at the lapel/gorge area, as is typical for DBs.

You don't need this

3. The middle row of buttons will be moved 1" down. In the pics you see, the middle row of buttons are 1/4" ABOVE the waistline (which is a no-no for a DB).

Not enough



The first fitting was way better than the second. You really mucked up the balance of the jacket.
Balance is the biggest issue at present and needs to be corrected first.

Straighten shoulder to straighten out front edge. To make the front edge perpendicular to the ground. This will also bring the collar down on the sides of your neck. Jacket sits too high at this point.
Trim out the chest.
Breast pocket, the chalk outline is too horizontal. Slope the pocket if it is not too late.
You have to properly trim the sleeve, not rotate the sleeve.
Lower button position.
Reduce blades on the back. It looks huge.
Waist line is too low, raise it up. Fronts have little to no shape.
When the lapels are made, the bottom of the right front will be shorter by cutting the bottom at an angle so it will not show under the left front, so don't worry about it.

Your tailor cuts nice pleats but did not cut the trouser to match the way you stand. He needs to cut for a forward hip/ flat seat to get the back clean.

Why and how often will you wear a sweater under a DB jacket?

Thanks Despos, makes the trouble of posting these pics here worth it.

I need the suit in the first week of next month for a 3-week business trip to Europe, and my tailor has gotten pretty sick of me, so at this point another fitting is not in the cards. I think he fried a few brain cells compensating for my significantly dropped right shoulder. He told me it took him a lot of effort.

This is the first time I got something so roomy tailored, and I quite like it. The jacket imposes no perceptible restrictions to motion -- it really is something for lounging around in. I want to keep the roominess. There is no stiff haircloth in the chest as is typical of my tailor. He is using a different tailor to make this up, and this other tailor makes soft coats, so there is merely another piece of hymo for the chest and a layer of white cotton flannel.

I'm going to call him shortly and tell him to

1. lower all six buttons by 0.5"
2. revert back the shoulder width to those in the first fitting
3. make the breast pocket more slanted.

These are in addition to the changes he will be making anyway, which are

4. nip in more of the waist
5. right shoulder slope correction

This DB will have swappable buttons so I can put in gilt buttons and also dark navy horn buttons. I plan to use it as a suit and as a blazer. This will be the only suit I will bring with me when I travel -- I need space for shoes!

 

[Despos]

The short front/long back is the most serious correction needed.

Side views would help the evaluation.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by Despos

3. The middle row of buttons will be moved 1" down. In the pics you see, the middle row of buttons are 1/4" ABOVE the waistline (which is a no-no for a DB).

Not enough

Out of curiosity, by how much would you lower button stance?

 

[hymo]

Originally Posted by Despos

The short front/long back is the most serious correction needed.

Side views would help the evaluation.

The bottom hems of the coat are level. My tailor kneeled down to eye the hem. I looked myself in the mirror to ascertain that. He once made me a linen jacket that was longer in the back than in the front so I've gotten sensitized to it.

Or do you mean something else?

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

The length is also a bit short.

I'm surprised you think so. I remember you defended your length at some point, but I can't remember what it was.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

Out of curiosity, by how much would you lower button stance?

It is hard to say in numbers by looking at a picture on the Internet. What I do may or may not work here.

Draw a line from the pocket to the front edge. Split the vertical spacing of the buttons on this line. If the buttons are 5" apart, the middle button would be 2 1/2" above the line, bottom button 2 1/2" below. Sometimes I go 3" above and 2" below. Differs by jacket and individual.
This won't work in all situations. Tailors put the pockets at different heights. I don't always space the buttons 5" apart. Used that number to simplify.

Another method is to put the middle button about 1" below where a single breasted would button.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by hymo

The bottom hems of the coat are level. My tailor kneeled down to eye the hem. I looked myself in the mirror to ascertain that. He once made me a linen jacket that was longer in the back than in the front so I've gotten sensitized to it.

Or do you mean something else?

From the second fitting pic, the back is falling in on your hip and the fronts look short. Better to have the front a touch longer. The picture of the first fitting did not look like this.

 

[the.chikor]

Originally Posted by Despos

The short front/long back is the most serious correction needed.

Side views would help the evaluation.

30%, 30% 30%

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by the.chikor

30%, 30% 30%

Good one!!!!

 

[OttoSkadelig]

Originally Posted by hymo

These are in addition to the changes he will be making anyway, which are

4. nip in more of the waist


i think once you do this, the apparently-too-short length will magically appear fine.

 

[hymo]

In the second set of fit pics (2nd fitting) the front is shorter by 0.5" on my instructions. The back is unchanged.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by hymo

In the second set of fit pics (2nd fitting) the front is shorter by 0.5" on my instructions. The back is unchanged.

Why did you want to do that?

Did he shorten from the top or the bottom?

 

[hymo]

I do not know how he executed it. I found the jacket too long for my tastes. I'll get him to lengthen the front by 0.25".

Also, only one of the shoulders were taken in (by 0.25&quot. I think I prefer my deltoids not to show, so I'm going with the original shoulder width.

 

[Despos]

If you change the length of the front only you have changed the balance. If the jacket is too long you shorten all around and not the front only.

Do you have another jacket made by this tailor? Would like to see one he finished for you.

 

[hymo]

^The piece he made for me prior to this DB. Alright, I'm going to drive the 1 hour (one way) to his place this evening and get him to open up the side seams, let the back and front find their level then have him pin up the seams, making sure everything is clean and without pulls. He's going to hate me for this.