Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Critique my bespoke navy DB

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hymo, Aug 17, 2010.

  1. whiteslashasian

    whiteslashasian Senior member

    Messages:
    11,901
    Likes Received:
    1,942
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2008
    hymo - i think it's a great idea that you decided to consult the forum for advice. i look forward to pictures of your second fitting.

    +1

    It sounds like you took the constructive criticisms here seriously and relayed them to your tailor. Hopefully it works out to your liking!
     


  2. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    Second fitting just now... [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] 1. Quarter inch more waisting each side 2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards 2. Shoulder slope correction on right side 3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter 4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers
     


  3. landshark

    landshark Senior member

    Messages:
    1,716
    Likes Received:
    51
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    I am a big fan of a defined shilouette on DB jackets. Especially with smaller sized men, it won't look right otherwise. That being said, I think you should surpress the waist some more. Also on the back of your trousers, your suspenders are uneven with the fishtail. Pants look good suspended.

    See if he can take the pleats out of those gray trousers while you are there [​IMG]
     


  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Likes Received:
    129
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    The buttoning point on your right side still looks lower than the left side. I think it may be that the front balance is too long, notice how the front edge is far from vertical and the bottoms of the fronts are not horizontal (and the corner of the right front is peeking out from behind the bottom or the left).
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    I think the gorge and the buttons are both way too high. The length is also a bit short. The sleeves don't look shaped right--they bunch in the back and don't curve elegantly. There appears to be some bagging in the backside of your trousers. Perhaps the back rise is too long.
     


  6. George

    George Senior member

    Messages:
    2,832
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    Having a fitting on a street, that's a new one!
     


  7. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Likes Received:
    166
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    I find the gorge too high and think the buttons need to be lowered as well. It may be the angle of the pic, but the buttons also appear to be misaligned?? Is that S'pore in the background?
     


  8. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    I think the gorge and the buttons are both way too high. The length is also a bit short. The sleeves don't look shaped right--they bunch in the back and don't curve elegantly. There appears to be some bagging in the backside of your trousers. Perhaps the back rise is too long.

    The gorge (peal of lapels) will be lower once made up. Really. I think I might add 1/4" of the length at the front and keep the back as is. The flannel trousers had it's back rise reduced, but I have given up getting these things right on trousers which sit on the hips.

    The buttoning point on your right side still looks lower than the left side. I think it may be that the front balance is too long, notice how the front edge is far from vertical and the bottoms of the fronts are not horizontal (and the corner of the right front is peeking out from behind the bottom or the left).

    The uneven bottom hem is due to only one buttoning point, and not the usual two.

    I find the gorge too high and think the buttons need to be lowered as well. It may be the angle of the pic, but the buttons also appear to be misaligned?? Is that S'pore in the background?

    That's Kuala Lumpur in the background.
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
     


  10. HarleyBob

    HarleyBob Senior member

    Messages:
    411
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting. [​IMG]
     


  11. Yika

    Yika Senior member

    Messages:
    555
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2009
    The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting. [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  12. Another New Yorker

    Another New Yorker Senior member

    Messages:
    551
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2009
    The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting. [​IMG]

    LOL
     


  13. Doxe

    Doxe Senior member

    Messages:
    507
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2009
    Despos,

    Is a DB harder to cut than a SB? If so, what should I be asking the tailor to ensure he'll do a proper job, i.e., how many DBs should he cut in a year to keep his prowess up, that sort of thing.

    Thanks.
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    I don't know if a db is harder to cut than a sb but the lines of a db are more evident when cut incorrectly. The aesthetic is different than sb as the button pattern and squared fronts create it's own visual effect and makes the proportions of a db jacket more critical. Good balance of shoulder, chest and skirt with appropriate lapels are required.

    It is more about the tailors "eye" than his frequency of cutting.
     


  15. Doxe

    Doxe Senior member

    Messages:
    507
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2009


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by