Critique custom dress shirt (tailorstore)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by stephen, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Would appreciate any sizing suggestions... It doesn't look bad in these photos, but I'm thinking about extending the sleeve length an additional 1" and the shirt length an additional 1". Seems like some of my recent shirts have been pulling up on the sleeves and coming untucked when seated a bit more than I'd like.

    Also -- didn't notice this until just now, but maybe I'll add an inch to the waist area... doesn't look bad tucked in, but the taper's a bit extreme when untucked.

    Any thoughts / suggestions? Thanks! [​IMG]

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  2. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Yoke appears to be slightly too large, but that could be because the shirt is unbuttoned. Or needs to shrink. I would go with more waist suppression. Its the hip measurement that gives the taper you complain about, but I think its fine. Your not going to wear it untucked anyway. Somehow the sleeves look slightly baggy in relation to the body. But that could be misperception.

    Other than that, looks good.
     


  3. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    I dont think you need any of those changes. However, you are very slim. There's really no need to be getting a center box pleat. It creates a puff in the lower back. Side pleats are preferable, ideally no pleats at all though.
     


  4. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    I Agree with whats been said. The shirt fits fine now, but as its custom you might as well get it perfect. With that in mind I would:

    1. Slim the sleeves down considerably. This is where shirts look most "tailored", get the sleeves right and even a layman knows how well your shirts fit.

    2. Swap the box-pleat for side pleats, much nicer shape all over.

    3. Consider making the cuffs smaller in diameter, they look a little gaping atm. If you want to be able to wear a watch, make relevant cuff a little wider.

    4. Add an inch or so to the body to solve your tucking issues

    5. I would keep the taper, it is slimming, and the shirts are too long to be worn un-tucked anyway.

    As I said, its a nice fitting shirt, but the above would make is a great fitting shirt. Would you mind sharing the maker?
     


  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    As it appears to be a button down, why is the collar not buttoned?
     


  6. CYstyle

    CYstyle Senior member

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    I wouldn't extend the sleeves another inch they'd be way too long. It's probably getting caught somewhere on the jacket you wear, ie armholes, and take a look at blackhoods suggestions and phxlawstudent.

    instead of adding to the waist, you can take an inch off the chest, there's still alot of fabric there, although that depends how fitted of a shirt you want.
     


  7. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone! Very helpful... I haven't been able to make to the gym as much lately, so my body type has changed quite a bit (smaller arms + chest). I'll have to make a tough decision on whether to give-in to the new 70hr/wk work lifestyle or hope-against-hope that I'll have gym time.

    I'll definitely:

    a) switch to side pleats
    b) cuff: -1/2"
    c) length: +1"
    d) sleeves: -1" (maybe)

    Any other thoughts? It's always tough to judge in these static poses. I'll have to do some exciting action shots of me in front of an excel model sometime.

    (By the way -- the shirt is from tailorstore.com. Haven't been super-satisfied with the fabric quality lately, but it's so difficult to switch to someone else when you have your sizing relatively down. It's a good business model -- high switching costs.)
     


  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the back does look that way to me as well... lost quite a bit of musculature in the shoulders / upper-back (used to rock climb more extensively).

    One more change:

    e) -1" from upper back / yoke

    Thanks! Any other suggestions?
     


  10. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Yeah, the back does look that way to me as well... lost quite a bit of musculature in the shoulders / upper-back (used to rock climb more extensively).

    One more change:

    e) -1" from upper back / yoke

    Thanks! Any other suggestions?


    The back is part of the chest measurement actually. The yoke is your shoulders. The yoke should end at your collar bone. If you feel your shoulder, you can tell where the bone ends, that's the general rule of thumb as to where the yoke should end.

    But yeah, I would personally slim down the chest and go with side pleats. I like side pleats because if I don't use side pleats, my range of movement is reduced, or I have to increase the chest measurement, which sort of defeats the point. Plus, I'm wearing a jacket anyway...

    As for makers, I have yet to be disappointed with propercloth's fabrics, however they aren't the cheapest maker, and certainly aren't the best. Modern Tailor is hit or miss and I've had issues with their manufacturing process (which may or may not be the case for others); but they are really cheap and I've gotten some nice feeling fabrics from them.

    I mention these two over others because both offer a fit guarantee. PC offers it on every fabric. MT offers it only on their $20 shirts. Just another option if you feel like changing.
     


  11. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    Thanks! Any other suggestions?
    This shirt doesn't look like it fits, at all, in any area except maybe the waist. The collar looks a bit big (also, why is it unbuttoned?), the shoulders look too big, the chest has too much cloth... it just doesn't look like it's worth putting any money into.
     


  12. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    The fit is baaaad, especially for a custom made. Here's what I'd change: 1. decrease the chest measurement. 2. decrease the armhole measurement. 3. decrease the forearm measurement. 4. decrease the yoke/shoulder measurement by about half-an-inch to an inch. 5. decrease the waist measurement a little. 6. decrease the cuff measurement. 7. decrease the length of the shirt. 8. get rid of the back pleat. 9. seems like the collar may be too large, but I cannot say for sure. EDIT: For reference, here's how a shirt should fit (in my opinion): [​IMG]
     


  13. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Senior member

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    ^some would say that is too tight.

    But if you are as slim as the OP, a shirt that fits like that wouldn't raise any concerns.
     


  14. rioni

    rioni Senior member

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    ^^ that shirt is way too tight
     


  15. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    A lot of bad responses in this thread, IMO. The sizing is only slightly off, not as bad as some people here claim. One of the reasons why you really shouldn't ask for size opinions on this, or any other forum, really. You get some really bad responses from people who (for the most part) are confusing opinion with fact, and don't really have the knowledge (barring the odd exception) to be making a proper, informed opinion anyway.
     


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