Covert coat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Coffee, Aug 23, 2006.

  1. Coffee

    Coffee Active Member

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    I already asked about this yesterday but didn´t receive any intrest, although I´m sure some of you are able to answer my question.

    I´m intrested in getting the much loved covert coat from Cordings. I could propably get a MTM one from a local tailor for a slighly higher price. Do you think I should go for the MTM one or would the Cordings coat be of higher quality?

    How does Cordings covert coat fit to people with wide shoulders and slim waist?

    Thanks for your help!
     


  2. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Given your concern for fit, the mtm is the only way to go with your covert coat.
     


  3. Coffee

    Coffee Active Member

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    Since Cordings covert coat is highly regarded for its quality, would a MTM one from different maker be considered inferior contruction-wise?
     


  4. mikeber

    mikeber Senior member

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    Since Cordings covert coat is highly regarded for its quality, would a MTM one from different maker be considered inferior contruction-wise?
    You ask a theoretical question and you will get theoretical answers. What probably interests you, is which way to go (a practical way).
    1) Do you know a potent tailor/ company who can cut you a covert coat? Someone who made such work before? Did you see their work? It is impossible to refer to "a maker" without knowing more details...
    2) The Cordings coat: did you try to see how it fits you? Why are you concerend about fit? If you are difficult to fit, as advised before, MTM is the only way. Excellent construction cannot hide a poor fit. MTM usually has an extra bonus: it allows you to select fabric and color and customize some details.
    3) However, if the only problem with the Cordings coat is simple things as too long sleeves, these can be altered later.
     


  5. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Unless you live in the UK you may have trouble locating covert cloth. Few MTM tailors will have it. Without covert cloth, you can't get a covert coat.

    New & Lingwood or Cordings will make you a covert to measure, as will most bespoke tailors. Neither N&L or Cordings charged much of a premium for MTM when I got mine.

    Neither of them will give you good advice as to how the regular coat will fit, in my opinion. If you can't go there to try it on you will have to take a chance, or go the MTM route.
     


  6. Coffee

    Coffee Active Member

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    As far as I know, local tailors that have MTM program have their coats made in large factories in either Middle-Europe or Italy. Not very romantic. However these factories supply many independant tailors their MTM-suits and coats. I´d quess that having a production volume like theirs, it makes sense to stock even covert cloth.

    I´m going to give this tailor I´ve been talking about a call tomorrow and ask whether he has the fabric and whether he can have a covert coat made. If not I´ll propably just have to take my chances with Cordings OTR. I´m not going to UK for some time now so getting a MTM one from Cordings would be extremely difficult. They just don´t sound like these self-measure tailors [​IMG] .
     


  7. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Does anyone have a Cordings covert coat? I'm wondering whether they're cut very slim. I spoke to a salesperson yesterday who said that a 38R has:

    Shoulders: 17.75"
    Chest 19.5"
    Sleeve 26"

    which would be a slim 38 suit. Has anyone had to to size up in these to get a fit over a suit?

    -TIA
     


  8. ysc

    ysc Senior member

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    Often people wear a covert coat without a jacket underneath, Eric Clapton (who part owns Cordings, or certainly used to) got them in two different sizes, a size up for wearing with a jacket underneath as well as one for wearing on its own.
    A few years ago I went into the shop to buy one and they offered to make one to fit, I seem to remember the price was basically the same as the RTW ones.
     


  9. Percy Trimmer

    Percy Trimmer Senior member

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    they offered to make one to fit, I seem to remember the price was basically the same as the RTW ones.


    They probably meant 'make one fit', i.e. tailor a rtw one to your measurements.
     


  10. ysc

    ysc Senior member

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    No, I belive it was going to be MTM, only because they were totally out of them in my size, but I could be wrong. A lot of the old school places are very obliging.
    I ended up not buying one and rather regret it now, I think they are pretty cool.

    Crombie also do a covert coat, including one in a slim fit. I can't comment on their quality Vs Cordings, and obviosly its not as iconic as the cordings Covert, but I have a few other things from there and they seem pretty decent quality to me.
     


  11. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Update: I called the store, and they reassured me that the measurements I was quoted were for a size 38 suit. The coat is cut to fit over a suit. They will also shorten the sleeve for GBP30 - though I didn't check whether that was from the shoulder or the cuff.
     


  12. passingtime

    passingtime Senior member

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    Update: I called the store, and they reassured me that the measurements I was quoted were for a size 38 suit. The coat is cut to fit over a suit. They will also shorten the sleeve for GBP30 - though I didn't check whether that was from the shoulder or the cuff.
    It's from the cuff. I nearly bought one a few months ago and we discussed alterations.
     


  13. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    It's from the cuff. I nearly bought one a few months ago and we discussed alterations.

    And they'll redo the stitching? $45 seems expensive for this.
     


  14. le.gentleman

    le.gentleman Senior member

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    Did you ever got a covert coat? If not, we put together a few sources for this classic overcoat in our covert coat article.
     


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