Correct shoulder fit / Are most men wearing too large shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Carbon, Oct 25, 2007.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,344
    Likes Received:
    314
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Yoke measurements have changed on stock size shirts in the 25 years I have been in business.

    When I first started. a 15 1/2 size shirt had a 18 1/2 yoke. As men started to work out more, suit jackets became fuller as did yoke measurements.n Standard became 19 1/2. The style for oversized became very popular. I remember making shirts with a 21" yoke on Medium sized shirts.

    The yoke measurement is down to about 19" on a 15 1/2 shirt.
     
  2. Taxler

    Taxler Senior member

    Messages:
    617
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2007
    Has anyone found a MTM shirt program that allows you to change the shoulder width? It's been my experience that they don't even if they suggest they do. If the stock collar in your size comes with a shoulder too wide, you probably need to change from a MTM program to custom.
     
  3. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

    Messages:
    26,133
    Likes Received:
    1,626
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2006
    Location:
    FOLKESTONE
    That is an interesting question and angle.Withvthe arrival of mass produced shirts and suits ,it is quite normal that the cut and fit have suffered quite badly....

    Production requirements and cost cutting exercises do not allow for the non-average Joe to find well-fitted clothes...
    it will cost you a lot more to get decent products ,most likely designed by high-yield firms...

    I'm lucky because i'm around 5'10 or 1m79 for 78 kilos and my built is allowing me to find regular mto suits without a lot of work on it..
     
  4. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,485
    Likes Received:
    27
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2007
    Shirtmaven, thank you for the professional memory. Your comments clarify and confirm exactly what I have observed as a consumer these last twenty years. An 18 1/2 shoulder fits me well, and my 15.5 / 33 size somehow outgrew me in the 1990s.
     
  5. EdenResident

    EdenResident Senior member

    Messages:
    797
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2007
    Location:
    Vienna, VA
    I'm 5'6 and skinny. It's pretty much impossible for me to find a shirt that fits right.
     
  6. mattjames

    mattjames Senior member

    Messages:
    433
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    I remember looking at the cover of Men's Vogue that month when Barack Obama was on it (an Annie Leibovitz portrait). His shoulder seams were easily 2 inches down his arms. I couldn't help but think of how many people looked at that picture and OKed it:

    I had a look for the photos and found this:

    http://www.mensvogue.com/images/busi...ar01_obama.jpg

    Doesn't look bad. Is this (one of) the photos you were talking about?
     
  7. kakemono

    kakemono Senior member

    Messages:
    508
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2007
    It has been a big change looking for size small shirts for me... (5/9" 160lbs)
    I started from being fat and thus wore poorly fitting clothes to hide it - thus sizing up on everything.
    I lost weight and started wearing better fitting clothes - thus sizing down. In a year, I went from checking out the XL section to the Small section.

    It is wierd looking through clothes nowadays though... anything labeled "Classic" will be a boxy tent and I have to size down - but the cut is still boxy. Anything labeled Custom/Vintage fit will be a tad too large with correct sizing, but have better shape. Custom/Vintage Smalls in the correct size are too small though... so I'm caught in between, heh.
     
  8. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

    Messages:
    5,589
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, MA
    I had a look for the photos and found this:

    http://www.mensvogue.com/images/busi...ar01_obama.jpg

    Doesn't look bad. Is this (one of) the photos you were talking about?


    That appears to be from the same shoot, and it doesn't look too bad in that shot, but on the cover I think he was leaning on his elbow or something (vs that pic, with his arms streched forward, which seems to mask the ill fit). Maybe my estimate iof 2" past his shoulder was an exaggeration, but the shirt fit looked notably bad.
     
  9. wq1999

    wq1999 Senior member

    Messages:
    348
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2006
    Yes, most American men wear shirts too large. But a lot wear shirts too small, where the shoulder seam lies way too far towards the neck. Also, sometimes having the seam a little off the shoulder blade gives the shirt a softer (Neapolitan?) shoulder.
     
  10. paper clip

    paper clip Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I used to wear XLs all the time. I am 6' 3" and 180# with a 35" sleeve. I thought the baggy fit looked good on me and hid how skinny I am.

    As I passed age 30, I got a Large, Tall shirt and when I looked at how it fit me in the mirror, it was an epiphany. Seeing the shoulder seams right at the edge of my shoulder rather than down my arm and not seeing a huge 'puddle' of cloth pooling around my belt was a real revelation.

    Thankfully, OTR BB slim fit dress shirts in my exact size work well as do sport shirts in Large, Tall.

    I really notice and dislike it when guys have shirt shoulders half way down their arms.

    Clothing looks better when it fits!
     
  11. bigskydream

    bigskydream Senior member

    Messages:
    318
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    I posted this in another thread, but since no one else has posted a pic here, I'll throw one out for scrutiny. How's the fit in the shoulder on this shirt?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Brian278

    Brian278 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,820
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Location:
    West Palm Beach, FL
    Left shoulder looks OK, right shoulder needs to come in an inch. Is that a Jantzen?
     
  13. bigskydream

    bigskydream Senior member

    Messages:
    318
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    The shirt is from W.W. Chan. I got measured by them in NYC.

    I've given up on Jantzen.
     
  14. s4usea

    s4usea Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    97
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2007
    I remember looking at the cover of Men's Vogue that month when Barack Obama was on it (an Annie Leibovitz portrait). His shoulder seams were easily 2 inches down his arms. I couldn't help but think of how many people looked at that picture and OKed it:

    3. The editors and stylists of Men's Vogue itself, who are, afterall, putting out a Vogue magazine.


    You hit on one of the reasons I stopped buying their magazine: nothing anyone wears fits them. My final straw was an article about an up and coming chef who was pictured wearing a Zegna sportcoat with sleeves that were long enough to be in the food he was holding.

    And this is a men's fashion magazine? Seriously, I haven't seen a single picture yet of a guy in properly fitted clothes grace their pages. Ugh. No wonder most guys don't get it right...
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by