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Correct shoulder fit / Are most men wearing too large shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Carbon, Oct 25, 2007.

  1. Carbon

    Carbon Well-Known Member

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    A) Anyone have a link to a very good description of where the shoulder seam should lie on a shirt? Preferably, does anyone have a pic? I've googled but there seems to be contradictory pictures and in any case I respect SF's take.

    B) I've been looking at other men's shoulder seams on the street. Most t-shirts and dress shirt seams seem to fall off the shoulder. Are most of America's men wearing oversized shirts?
     


  2. robin

    robin Senior member

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    A) I like the shoulder seams on my shirts to rest slightly above (very slightly) where my shoulder falls. If that makes sense. B) Yes. It's partly 1/3 their fault, 1/3 the salesman's, and 1/3 the manufacturer's.
     


  3. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

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    Yes, most people wear things too large. I was in BR today and I realized that I wear a small in everything and I'm 6' tall! There is no men's petite section, where are they supposed to shop?

    Shoulder seams are the bane of my existence. They are the hardest to get right and the hardest to find that fit properly. I'm OCD about them.
     


  4. kakemono

    kakemono Senior member

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    I have recently started watching where the shoulder seem lies on almost every person I pass to and from class. It is a good tell tale sign of thier style.

    I have noticed that probably 9/10 have shoulder seems that are way too wide.
     


  5. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    I remember looking at the cover of Men's Vogue that month when Barack Obama was on it (an Annie Leibovitz portrait). His shoulder seams were easily 2 inches down his arms. I couldn't help but think of how many people looked at that picture and OKed it: 1. Obama's team of handlers, who were no doubt aware that he was appearing on a men's fashion mag rather than something more populist like People; 2. Annie Leibovitz and her assistants, who have been responsible for more glossy celebrity photos than ayone alive; 3. The editors and stylists of Men's Vogue itself, who are, afterall, putting out a Vogue magazine. There must have been about a hundred people who could have said "yo, shirt's way baggy, he looks like a 90 lb weakling", but not one of them knew to. What is the world coming to.
     


  6. robin

    robin Senior member

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    Unfortunately, Obama has to dress like the common man, not a sartorialist. I have seen pictures of him in properly fitted shirts though.
     


  7. Brian278

    Brian278 Senior member

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    Much of the blame is with the way OTR shirts are cut. For instance, I wear a 15/33, and nearly every 15/33 I could pick up at a store would have the shoulder seams 2 inches or so wide of where the should be. Even with T-shirts or polo shirts, if I don't want them to look like a muscle shirt with too short sleeves, the seams are going to be off the shoulder a bit.

    I assume it's mostly because it's more comfortable to wear a shirt with shoulder seems that are too wide than one that is too narrow, but it's irritating nonetheless.
     


  8. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    Unfortunately, Obama has to dress like the common man, not a sartorialist. I have seen pictures of him in properly fitted shirts though.
    If he's shaking hands in Iowa, yes. If he's on Oprah, yes. If he's on Time or Life or People, yes. If he's on Men's Vogue, which appeals to the kind of voter who buys something called "Men's Vogue", then he should be impeccably dressed.
     


  9. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Men tend to be practical and tend to buy shirts they will wear for a long time ....
    We also have been groomed very early to wearing shirts one size too big by our beloved mums..........The famous "It will last longer "...

    Most men are also weary of the close fit ,finding it too feminine or also too revealing...Closer fit means better body definition therefore can we be surprised if most men wear baggy shirts?
     


  10. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

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    Much of the blame is with the way OTR shirts are cut. For instance, I wear a 15/33, and nearly every 15/33 I could pick up at a store would have the shoulder seams 2 inches or so wide of where the should be. Even with T-shirts or polo shirts, if I don't want them to look like a muscle shirt with too short sleeves, the seams are going to be off the shoulder a bit.

    I assume it's mostly because it's more comfortable to wear a shirt with shoulder seems that are too wide than one that is too narrow, but it's irritating nonetheless.


    I have started sizing down from 15.5 / 34-35 to 14.5 - 32/33 and often get a reasonable fit. ugh.
     


  11. Brian278

    Brian278 Senior member

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    I have started sizing down from 15.5 / 34-35 to 14.5 - 32/33 and often get a reasonable fit. ugh.

    At the expense of not being able to wear it with a tie and a collar stretched open?

    I think I'm just going to go MTM for nearly every shirt from now on.
     


  12. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

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    At the expense of not being able to wear it with a tie and a collar stretched open?

    I think I'm just going to go MTM for nearly every shirt from now on.


    No, actually a good fit. BR was always a tent in my size but today I found that sizing down one fit me almost perfectly. Just maybe some darts in the back to make it form fitting.
     


  13. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    No, actually a good fit. BR was always a tent in my size but today I found that sizing down one fit me almost perfectly. Just maybe some darts in the back to make it form fitting.
    You're lucky. Whenever I even try to size down I've got to have my arms shortened. [​IMG] Don't forget to tip your waitress!
     


  14. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

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    You're lucky. Whenever I even try to size down I've got to have my arms shortened. [​IMG]

    Don't forget to tip your waitress!


    Yeah depends on the brand. For shirts with a sleeve length size, it doesn't matter too much. I often have this same problem though for clothes that are S M L.
     


  15. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Yes, most people wear things too large. I was in BR today and I realized that I wear a small in everything and I'm 6' tall! There is no men's petite section, where are they supposed to shop?

    Shoulder seams are the bane of my existence. They are the hardest to get right and the hardest to find that fit properly. I'm OCD about them.

    I think several people on this forum, myself included, have the same exact problem. It really sucks when it comes to online shopping w/o measurements. I'm 6' and while I'm buying S so that the shoulders/chest fit I get a bit nervous about the sleeve length; if it's a dress shirt then I go to 14.5 or 15 knowing that the former while nearly collapse my trachea and the latter will make for a delightful picnic blanket should I feel the need for lunch in the park. Awful. Not necessarily shirts but RL has some issues with outerwear and sweatshirts. I was about to bid on a shall collar sweater sized S until I saw that the measured chest was about 45"... How does someone truly small, say 5'8" or under, fit into one of those???
     


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