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Corneliani MTM + Corneliani MTM vs. Ercole

Lino

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Corneliani MTM been mentioned in the past (including in comparisons with RLBL MTM), has anyone actually taken the plunge?

Also, rather than comparing Corneliani MTM to RLBL MTM, I would be interested in a comparison of Corneliani MTM to Ercole in Brooklyn. Based on previous threads and Corneliani's ORT pricing, I think they are both fairly close in price, but how about fit, construction and styling?


Cheers,
Lino

[and yes, I did cross post this one on SF]
 

Tomasso

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Originally Posted by Lino
I would be interested in a comparison of Corneliani MTM to Ercole in Brooklyn.

Ercole is bespoke and from what I've heard they're something of a value. They would have a much higher pricepoint if they were renting space in Manhattan rather than owning their shop in Brooklyn
 

Lino

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Originally Posted by Tomasso
Ercole is bespoke and from what I've heard they're something of a value. They would have a much higher pricepoint if they were renting space in Manhattan rather than owning their shop in Brooklyn

Have you used Ercole? If so, what would you say their house cut is?
 

Cantabrigian

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I haven't tried Corneliani or Polo MTM so can't offer a comparison per se but I had my second fitting with Ercole on Friday and it looks like the suit is going to turn out very well. There isn't as much handwork as I would like (and asked for
frown.gif
) - the collar and lapels are done by machine though I believe that with some more perseverence and perhaps a surcharge, that can be changed on my next jacket.

Ercole's default seems to be a very firm, padded shoulder. When I explained that I realize that I have sloped shoulders and am willing to let the world see that fact in exchange for some added comfort, Frank significantly reduced the amount of padding. The shoulders still feel a bit strong for my taste but I should really wear the coat a bit before fully forming that opinon. And this could well be a case in which the tailor knows better than I think I do...

The coat has, for my taste, as nice a shape as possible given my rather unremarkable physique. The canvass isn't especially light but it isn't intrusive either.

One advantage that I imagine Ercole has over the Corneliani MTM is fabric selection. They either have (or are willing to get) books from Lesser, Minnis, Smiths, Porter & Harding, etc. They also have what seems like a full range of books from Scabal and Dormeuil. I think they have some LP books but I really wasn't looking.

I believe they're happy to do CMT or at least they didn't bat an eyelash when I asked them to. (I should note that I really wish I had picked something out of a Lesser book rather than buying some Charles Clayton at Tip Top but that's water under the bridge...)

Frank (the son) is, in my limited experience, a really good guy - easy to talk to, unpretentious, with styling preferences similar to my own. He said that everything is done in house (without my asking) and takes quite a bit of pride in that.

Labor starts at 900 for a jacket, 200 for pants.

I started ordering just a suit but things seemed to be coming along well enough that I ordered three pairs of summerish pants (2 Lesser old 10oz and a H&S gabardine). When the suit is done and I've worn it a bit, I'll either get a lightweight summer odd jacket or my first 3-piece suit, probably 12-14oz.

If there's any interest, I'm happy to post some photos when the suit is done.
 

Lino

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-1 on the lack of handwork after you asked for it (lack of handwork is one thing, just not following a request without telling you they could/would not is not too cool).

-1 on the padding.

possible -1 on house style. I read in one post someone said they thought they read Ercole had a S. Italian house cut (though I could not find a post that said that here or on AAAC), the cut you describe sounds more Roman/Brioni.

+1 on fabric selection.

+1 for CTM (it's Cut Trim Make, or says one of the tailors on AAAC)

+1 on price (I think they actualy come in lower than I would expect Corneliani MTM to be"”or at the least lower than Cornerliani at retail + tailoring)

+1 for someone being happy thus far.

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
If there's any interest, I'm happy to post some photos when the suit is done.

There is, please do. I look forward to seeing the results.
 

Cantabrigian

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Originally Posted by Lino
-1 on the padding.

To be fair, Frank showed me the shoulder pads he used and they are very thin.

When I said that the shoulder was still a little strong, I meant that in comparison to the sweater-like shoulder I was hoping for. And it may well be the case that what he gave me on this suit will look better than what I will try to talk him into on the next jacket.
 

Lino

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Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
To be fair, Frank showed me the shoulder pads he used and they are very thin.

When I said that the shoulder was still a little strong, I meant that in comparison to the sweater-like shoulder I was hoping for. And it may well be the case that what he gave me on this suit will look better than what I will try to talk him into on the next jacket.


Got ya. Thanks for the clarification.
 

Cantabrigian

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For what it's worth, here are some photos of my first Ercole suit. Frank and I agreed that it's a decent start but it's a start (though he has a lot more on his 'to tinker with' list than I do).

Looking at the photos now, I'd say that I may want to try and open the quarters a little bit more. The next shoulder will be softer and the pitch of the shoulders will be moved forward a tiny bit more.









I'm a big fan of those LBD linings. Frank has decided to now offer the red ground with blue polkadots as one of his standards.


Something I would put under the category of 'useless but pretty cool all the same' he decided to use shirtings for the trouser pockets, etc.
 

Cantabrigian

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Originally Posted by texas_jack
Pretty nice. I like the fabric and the shoulder looks to be a nice balance of soft yet defined. You might want to go for higher armholes as they look a little big for you.
Good call - that's actually my number one thing to change this time. Guess trying to get a usable photo took so long I forgot what I was going to write.
 

brescd01

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First of all, I am delightfully surprised that there has been pretty consistent feedback (and criticism) of Ercole. Based on what I have read, to say that Ercole represents value strikes me as an understatement. I think you did a great job with your suit. The pants don't flatter you (you have a very nice body) but of course comfort is primary and pants are deceptively tricky to get right, for both client and tailor. Ercole and Summit strike me as the local "finds" of the fora.
 

edmorel

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Not to be a wet blanket but I am not sure that I see the "value" in Ercole. Did I read correctly where it said that jackets start at $900 and pants at $200 for labor only? $1100 for the labor, assume $200 for halfway decent fabric and we are at $1300 for what seems to be a suit that Mr. Ned would do for $600-800. I'm not a huge fan of Mr. Ned as my style has changed but the Ercole cut seems very similar to what Ned has done for me in the past. For the Ercole money I'd expect more flexibilty and better fit. Your right shoulder and sleeve seem to be off, the shoulder pad is too protruding and the sleeve seems too long. The pants are too lonf for my tastes but that's niether here nor there. Don't get me wrong, the suit looks nice and I am sure they do good work but you might want to try Ned and save $500-700.
 

Cantabrigian

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Originally Posted by edmorel
Not to be a wet blanket but I am not sure that I see the "value" in Ercole. Did I read correctly where it said that jackets start at $900 and pants at $200 for labor only? $1100 for the labor, assume $200 for halfway decent fabric and we are at $1300 for what seems to be a suit that Mr. Ned would do for $600-800. I'm not a huge fan of Mr. Ned as my style has changed but the Ercole cut seems very similar to what Ned has done for me in the past. For the Ercole money I'd expect more flexibilty and better fit. Your right shoulder and sleeve seem to be off, the shoulder pad is too protruding and the sleeve seems too long. The pants are too lonf for my tastes but that's niether here nor there. Don't get me wrong, the suit looks nice and I am sure they do good work but you might want to try Ned and save $500-700.
I honestly haven't spent too much time looking at Mr Ned stuff but my impression is that the sewing with Ercole is a bit better. As you identified, that 'bit' comes at a hefty price (at least as a percentage).

I really like working with Frank and expect the fit to be more precise on the jacket he's working on now -- an odd jacket in 10oz navy fresco. When I came to pick it up, he indicated that he wished he had done the fittings rather than his father since his style preferences more closely match my own. I enjoyed the process and I'm willing to give them a couple of more tries to get the pattern to the point I think it's really good.

Is it a good value? I don't know. I certainly don't feel as though I got a bad deal but that doesn't mean there aren't better options. As has been observed, the quality-value sweet spot probably lies somewhere a bit north of this price range.

Thanks for the comments, guys.
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by texas_jack
Pretty nice. I like the fabric and the shoulder looks to be a nice balance of soft yet defined. You might want to go for higher armholes as they look a little big for you.
how can you tell the size of the armhole from the picture? I have never been able to pick this up from appearance other than when an armhole is obviously too small.
 

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