Cordovan shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mike C., Oct 7, 2004.

  1. JohnG

    JohnG Well-Known Member

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    This is somewhat referring back to the debate of whether to use cream or polish/paste that was brought up a while back in another thread.

    Aldens from thier website recommended polish and A.E. only sells cream for cordovan.

    It has always been my understanding that with only using a carnuba polish- one will notice the white lines and creasing or furrowing of the leather moreso than with a cream.

    Even though cordovan leather is actually a membrane below the hide of a horses rump or hindquaters as I understand it, one will still get the "furrowing" or the lines with only using polish

    Perhaps some of you more knowlegeable gents could expand on this please?

    Respectfully,
    John G.
     
  2. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Alden Cordovans, while beautiful shoes, do tend to be big and clunky. I guess that's because they offer most of their cordovans in double soled models, apart from the loafers, which seem to be in single soled.
    I think C&J offers the Grasmere & Onslow (My personal favorite), both laceups, in cordovan, and the Henley, Cavendish and Harvard loafers in cordovan. PLAL can probably get them for you but I don't think they stock them.
     
  3. Kai

    Kai Senior member

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    The best Alden Cordovan shoes are Alden of Carmel's "Fan" shoes. Â http://www.alden-of-carmel.com Many are double soled, but some are single. Â My favorite is their two tone brown saddle shoe. I wouldn't call this shoe "clunky."Â [​IMG] As for care of shell cordovans, I use a paste wax from Nikwax, but use it very sparingly, and likewise use a paste polish very sparingly. Â For the most part, rubbing with a damp cloth, folowed by good buffing with a brush is all these shoes need to keep them looking shiny and beautiful.
     
  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The Tremont last, which Alden currently uses for their shell cordovan bal wingtips, isn't very elegant: [​IMG] The previous last, the Grant, was even less so. If you want shell cordovan full brogues from Alden, you ought to have them made up on the Aberdeen last or the Hampton last.
     
  5. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    (AlanC @ 07 Oct. 2004, 09:29) Stylestudent, do you prefer the tan/brown calf or the burgundy (as a substitute for the shell cordovan color) in the loafer?
    I wear black and the dark brown suede (very smooth) in the tassel loafers and find that the suede works well with all shades of gray and tan trousers, especially if they have a bit of texture like a flannel or twill. I generally wear the tassel loafers with a jacket and tie but have Alden brown suede penny loafers for tieless occasions. Buttondown oxford shirts also seem related.
    Stylestudent: I think it was you who posted the interesting article from Cigar Affic. on the tassel loafer. Thanks. I've never liked them myself. Or if I've admired them, I've admired them on others. The tassel always seemed a bit of frippery to me -- one that, for some reason, I couldn't abide. (And I like a bit of frip., now and then). but as to popularity of cordovan: I guess it's the sense of durability of leather that bring people to it. At least for me. Alden oxfords and plain loafer with unandorned strip across vamp.
     
  6. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Kai: those are nice. I saw those Alden models in cordovan, yet I recall them having a split toe? I thought it was made esp. for the Carmel shop, and I was going to pick up a pair in black next time I went. H
     
  7. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Originally Posted by Manton,07 Oct. 2004, 10:13
    I have a pair of Alden loafers, and a pair of Vass full brogues. Â I like them both, but the Vass has a far, far more elegant last. Â The Alden full brogues look like blobs to me.
    The Tremont last, which Alden currently uses for their shell cordovan bal wingtips, isn't very elegant: [​IMG] The previous last, the Grant, was even less so. If you want shell cordovan full brogues from Alden, you ought to have them made up on the Aberdeen last or the Hampton last.
    I picked up this model from Alden within the last year. Â Fit perfectly and walked out of the store in the 50's and down to Battery Park. Â Feet never felt so good. Â I agree that the tremont, and the Barrie (which is this one I've pictured) aren't the most elegant, but I think that shoes don't necessarily have to be elegant (which is a matter of taste, and no doubt yours is quite refined and I think more developed than mine, certainly) -- but I think the sturdy appearance of this shoe is appropriate in certain circumstances. Â What those are I am at a lost to say. [sorry unable to post image at moment --- but it's the full wrap-around wing-tip in cordovan - model name: "Wing Tip Bal Oxford" at http://www.aldenshoe.com/cat_ane4_975.htm ]
     
  8. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    (AlanC @ 07 Oct. 2004, 09:29) Stylestudent, do you prefer the tan/brown calf or the burgundy (as a substitute for the shell cordovan color) in the loafer?
    I wear black and the dark brown suede (very smooth) in the tassel loafers and find that the suede works well with all shades of gray and tan trousers, especially if they have a bit of texture like a flannel or twill. I generally wear the tassel loafers with a jacket and tie but have Alden brown suede penny loafers for tieless occasions. Buttondown oxford shirts also seem related.
    Wow. We all have such different tastes don't we. Different strokes for different folks l guess. l wouldn't be caught dead in tassles or suede shoes. Yuk. (No offense).
     
  9. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    (STYLESTUDENT @ 07 Oct. 2004, 09:37)
    Stylestudent, do you prefer the tan/brown calf or the burgundy (as a substitute for the shell cordovan color) in the loafer?
    I wear black and the dark brown suede (very smooth) in the tassel loafers and find that the suede works well with all shades of gray and tan trousers, especially if they have a bit of texture like a flannel or twill. I generally wear the tassel loafers with a jacket and tie but have Alden brown suede penny loafers for tieless occasions. Buttondown oxford shirts also seem related.
    Wow. We all have such different tastes don't we. Different strokes for different folks l guess. l wouldn't be caught dead in tassles or suede shoes. Yuk. (No offense).
    My problem with tassle loafers is I can't help thinking everytime I see one how much nicer the shoe would look without the tassel. koji
     
  10. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    Gr8 looking shoos. l must admit to getting a huge crush on norwegion shoos and Alden cordovans as well. Heck, even the E.G dover is having a real affect on me. l have dreamed of the E.G Dover for 2 nights in a row now.
     
  11. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    My problem with tassle loafers is I can't help thinking everytime I see one how much nicer the shoe would look without the tassel.
    Exactly. l say, just rip the tassle off the shoe. l saw a pair of Allen Edmonds tassle loafers in cordovan at a steep discount, l was going to buy them and rip the tassle off but it would have ruined the shoe l think.
     
  12. Super Fly

    Super Fly Well-Known Member

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    I'll put in a vote for the cordovan models made by Alden for Brooks Brothers. The styling differences although subtle are superior to the Alden equivalents, especially the lace up models. It's the eyelets. They are a bit chunky but the design is a 40+ year old classic, hard to find that kind of endurance in fashion. Cordovan's texture and gloss characteristics are very different from calfskin. Also, the black cordovan models look good too (although I prefer the burgundy color). I agree with Manton that cordovan is better for colder weather since it's heavier than calfskin. IMHO cordovan does not crease excessively if shoetrees are used.
     
  13. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    (Horace @ 07 Oct. 2004, 11:51) [​IMG]
    Gr8 looking shoos. l must admit to getting a huge crush on norwegion shoos and Alden cordovans as well. Heck, even the E.G dover is having a real affect on me. l have dreamed of the E.G Dover for 2 nights in a row now.
    I thought I was the only sicko that actually dreamed of shoes...*whew* koji
     
  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Originally posted by Thracozaag:
    [​IMG] My worst one happend when I ordered my first pair of bespokes, and dreamt that what I ended up with was an unholy pair of leather clogs.
     
  15. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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