Cordovan Care

[papa kot]

Would your average shoe shine guy be able to discern cordovan from calf?

This may have been answered already, but is it safe to trust getting your Cordovans cleaned by the shoeshine service you find at Nordstrom's or a brick & mortar shoe shop.

Assumption is a mother of all fuckups. While I cannot speak for all shoe shining or repair services, I can certify that not everybody I've met knew how to deal with cordovan leather. What you need to do is to ask a question such as: What do you recommend for using on cordovan leather? The answers you'd get may surprise you. If a person says "There is no such thing as 'cordovan black' shoe polish" then you may need to pass One guy I chatted with almost crapped his pants when he learned that the shoes I was talking about were made of horse butts. This guy happened to work at a shoe repair store...

If you're spending that much money on your shoes, you basically have to figure out how to deal with maintenance yourself. It is not that hard as long as you remember to wipe the shoes, let them cool off before inserting any support (e.g., shoe trees) and apply only tiny amounts of wax when polishing. Another way to deal with issues is to call up an Alden shop and figure out what shops they use for stretching and some basic service; then use those businesses. It may cost you extra money, but it beats costly mistakes.

 

[papa kot]

First post here; love the information on these fora!

So I picked up seconds shell Leeds recently and after wear and brushing they look like this, with a dry rough feel:



Happens on both shoes, mostly where pictured on the outside edge, but also the vamp. Brushing seems only to make it worse, so I'm thinking its not "bloom" but more likely overly dry shell or some other defect. It gets better if I use a damp cloth to wipe, but doesn't get quite smooth, and erupts again next wearing or brushing (especially). I have treated with Venetian Shoe Cream which made it go away for couple of wearings, but it returned. Also used a small amount of wax polish. Same thing. Thanks for any thoughts on approach, gentlemen!

I experienced the same type of "roughness" with Alden shoes. In my case it went away after light brushing and applying a tiny amount of wax. If you have a spare bill, send these over to AE for recrafting and see what they say.

 

[papa kot]

I'll try a dedicated cordovan product, but I'm miffed that when I bought my black Alden longwing's they threw in a smal jar of black polish (wax). My assumption would be that's their recommended polish.

Yes it is. I got a small jar of the same black polish or "Fine Paste Wax" as it is called by Alden. I applied a tiny amount when polishing my boots and it worked like a charm. The thing is... Cordovan is so oily you don't really need it.

 

[mymil]

First post here; love the information on these fora!

So I picked up seconds shell Leeds recently and after wear and brushing they look like this, with a dry rough feel:


Happens on both shoes, mostly where pictured on the outside edge, but also the vamp. Brushing seems only to make it worse, so I'm thinking its not "bloom" but more likely overly dry shell or some other defect. It gets better if I use a damp cloth to wipe, but doesn't get quite smooth, and erupts again next wearing or brushing (especially). I have treated with Venetian Shoe Cream which made it go away for couple of wearings, but it returned. Also used a small amount of wax polish. Same thing. Thanks for any thoughts on approach, gentlemen!

Stop using wax. First use a very lightly damp, soft cloth and rub vigorously. Wait for it to dry. Then use a smooth deer bone in small circular motions over the area. Buff with a very soft cloth or a polishing mitt.

 

[mymil]

I hired someone to shine my shoes (because I developed a medical condition that prevents me from doing it anymore) and even though I asked them not to put any polish on my shell cordovan, of course they did. So now I have to hire someone else to just like... rub them with clean polishing cloths a lot. I'm ******* pissed about it. Like, I wrote the damn manual on shell cordovan care that's posted on the Hanger Project: http://www.hangerproject.com/shoe-care-guide/polishing-shell-cordovan/

 

[traverscao]

Can you wear gloves and polish? I bet it helps.

 

[mymil]

^ Gloves won't help with this, unfortunately. Thanks anyway.

 

[traverscao]

That was very unfortunate, FWIW.

Please do tell me if it is inappropriate to ask, but what happened?

 

[mymil]

^ I'm happy to talk about shoes, but I don't want to discuss my health problems. Thanks.

 

[Claghorn]

I get these odd white lines across some cordovan from Meermin (I believe it comes from Argentina) that I don't get from stuff from Horween. If I brush vigorously, it'll disappear. I've tried using Saphir Reno as well as cordovan cream in the hopes that it'll disappear for good, but the second I step out of the house, the white marks appear again. They're about a 18 months old.

Any ideas?

 

[MonotovsOpera]

I get these odd white lines across some cordovan from Meermin (I believe it comes from Argentina) that I don't get from stuff from Horween. If I brush vigorously, it'll disappear. I've tried using Saphir Reno as well as cordovan cream in the hopes that it'll disappear for good, but the second I step out of the house, the white marks appear again. They're about a 18 months old.

Any ideas?

It's normal with shell. It's the pull-up effect around the creases. Dye and oils are being forced out of the areas where shell creases.

 

[Claghorn]

Any reason why Horween doesn't? Or at least nowhere near to that extent.

 

[MonotovsOpera]

Any reason why Horween doesn't? Or at least nowhere near to that extent.

No idea why the Horween shell you've had doesn't display it, but I've seen it on multiple pairs of Horween shell footwear. It may depend on the finishing techniques of the manufacturer or the colour of the shell.

 

[OTM]

I have a small tear near the little toe on my Park Avenues. Now I am afraid to use them, because I think it will just get worse.

What on earth should I do?

 

[dbhdnhdbh]

According to Nick Horween, the amount of bloom varies widely from different pieces of shell. Natural product produced with traditional methods. No way to predict how much you will get.

It seems it eventually stops once the extra wax has come out.

Horween posted a picture of a pair of shoes that had not been regularly wiped and became completely encased in wax.

The way of shell...