Cord attaching peaked lapel points

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chorse123, Dec 1, 2004.

  1. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    My new suit has peaked lapels. Connecting the two points (well, sides of the gorge) is a cord of twisted thread. I'm assuming it's there to keep the peaked lapel from slouching, but should it be there? It's basically invisible, but I didn't know, and thought one of you might. Still working on pictures.
     


  2. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Yes, that is a common feature on some peaked lapeled suits. I have a RL Polo coat, in camel, and it has the same stitch of thread there. I wonder if it has something to do with the weight of the fabric, in that a heavier fabric might be more prone to slouch, therefore the stitch.
     


  3. matcha

    matcha Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it should be there. Don't cut it off. Even Oxxford puts it on their DB peaked lapel blazer.
     


  4. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I have them on a Zegna DB blazer
     


  5. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Thanks Matcha, Phil, and zjpj. I don't know why, but my first instinct was to cut it. How stupid is that?

    It's a light-weight material, so it does add significant support.
     


  6. bestmastertailor

    bestmastertailor Well-Known Member

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    I use a cross-stitch on all peak lapel garments to achieve the same effect. It is used to prevent "dog ears".
     


  7. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Has this always been the case that this string has been attached?

    Or were there other ways, in days of old, of caring for this (potential) problem of drooping? Say more attention to clothing care, ironing, pressing, valeting, etc.
     


  8. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I imagine it came about when light enough fabrics/construction started being used that the point could droop. I know some heavier coats don't have it, and anything designed for that buttonhole (that thing just keeps popping up round here) to be used, wouldn't have it attached.

    Speaking of this, I ran across a nice Polo DB sport jacket in a 43L last night that didn't have even a trace of this connection. Odd, I thought, but someone might have pulled it out. The fabric was, however, heavy enough to not necessarily need it.
     


  9. JDMcDaniel

    JDMcDaniel Well-Known Member

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    Can I have this easily added to a peaked lapel jacket? I have a DB Corneliani that I like, but it has an ever so slight droop to the peaks that has so far ensured its relegation it to the back of my closet. Bestmastertailor?
     


  10. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I have had DB suits from Alan Flusser Custom, Alan Flusser/Coppley (MTM), Brooks Brothers, Oxxford, and Davies & Son.

    Hands down, Oxxford has the best workmanship regarding the stitching in between the peak and lapel and the collar. It consists of two twisted silk threads (similar to the flower keeper) cross-stitched to form an "X".

    The stitching of some of my other suits has come apart.

    It's not something that someone looks for when buying a suit. I mention it as only an illustration of the Oxxford workmanship that goes into small details.
     


  11. bestmastertailor

    bestmastertailor Well-Known Member

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    The two twisted silks is what I use to form the cross stitch. It can easily be performed by a tailor or seamstress on any garment with peak lapels. Heavier goods (i.e. tweeds) don't usually need it, but it is a form of preventive maintenance due to how dry cleaners tend to handle clothing. I used to sell Corneliani (best made $1000.00 suit on the market) in my retail store and they came that way from the factory, but they could have let one slip through.
     


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