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Cool Weather Suiting--Worsted or Flannel?


Distinguished Member
Aug 7, 2004
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One gap in my wardrobe is this: I do not have a suit for chilly weather...and, yes, we do get a fair amount even in Southern California. I was planning to get something from about a 400-gram fabric, perhaps one of the Harrison's fabrics--either a worsted from their Oyster collection or one of their flannels. I am inclining toward a flannel, but I have some concerns about durability. I very much doubt if I shall wear the suit more than about 40 times at most during the few remaining years left to me. Am I likely cause excessive wear on the trousers, which I gather are the weak point of a flannel suit, if I wear it maybe three times a year, or will it stand up well to that limited amount of use? Would I be better off with the superior durability of a medium-heavy worsted?

The tailors will, of course, be my friends from Kowloon.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be welcome.
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Senior Member
May 17, 2011
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There's nothing like the texture and warmth of a nice flannel in Winter. If you're going to be wearing it so little, I think it should be fine. If you're concerned about the trousers, perhaps have a two pairs made for the one jacket?


Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Oct 6, 2004
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Flannel is nice in cold weather, especially when it's dry. If it gets even a little steamy (as can be inside during cool spring rains), I sometimes regret wearing it. But it's a nice thing to have around.

You could always get two pairs of trousers and swap one over to blazers or tweeds if you find yourself not wearing it enough.

The other thing is that flannel is bulky-- so if your jackets are cut on the sharp side, think about having Patrick tone it down a bit.

Harrisons certainly has classics. If you are willing to go to woollens and not worsted, think about the Smiths book. Not many patterns in it, but they are really gorgeous. And if you're only wearing it occasionally, that should be perfectly OK as far as durability goes. I don't know if there's a price bump-up for HK. In London, it winds up in the same price bracket. Of course, Minnis has some very standard flavors. Their 13-14oz is very substantial with lovely mottling. I've had a few things done from the 12-13, which looks more boring but is quite useful.

Otherwise, not much to worry about. I'd go for simple cut (straight flaps, no ticket pocket) and cuffs/turn-ups. Two- or three-button fronts can be good. Most of mine are 2-button, but for one I'm having done at A&S out of one of their specials, I have elected 3 to look a little more casual. We shall see how that goes.

On the flannel vs. worsted question, it really depends on how dressy or business-y you need it to be, what time of day it's for, etc.
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Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2011
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I have mostly flannel for cold weather.

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