Cool furniture, design objects and desiderata

[venessian]

Well...I'll try it yet again. Stained wood is never great always terrible.

Here is a free "third time's the charm" suggestion, from a slightly different POV, for whenever you feel it appropriate to make this extremely valid point once more.

 

[double00]

Ammonia fuming can produce beautiful results, but it's fundamentally and aesthetically different from staining.

i really don't see the diff ?

 

[Bromley]

Ammonia reacts with tannins in wood, and evenly darkens the material itself. The grain ("wood graphics") remain perfectly intact-- only darkened. Stain is applied to a wood surface, and the pigments cover/obscure wood grain to varying extents. As an observer, fumed wood looks natural to me, whereas stained wood looks stained.

Fuming is also rarely used as a final surface treatment. For instance, fumed oak turns kind of green as it darkens. This appearance can be greatly improved with the some amber shellac. The shellac will also bring the grain detail into sharper focus, making the fumed wood look even more distinct from stained wood.

I think that if you're making things out of pieces of wood, and you care about what you're making, your wood choice and grain direction will be thoughtful and intentional. It's nice not to cover that with stain. And if you're a big factory churning out wooden objects in large quantities, I think it's still nice not to use stain.

 

[venessian]

i really don't see the diff ?

AF is species-to-species i.e. it doesn't blend or modify or obscure grain to "achieve a different look" but only darkens the intrinsic pattern and grain. It is not a liquid additional product so it does not run, puddle, coagulate. AF colors generally remain more specific to the original species and AF color is typically more durable long-term. The process also has cons relative to staining or dyeing; the processes are definitely different.

EDIT: what @Bromley (much more expert than I) wrote just above.

 

[Van Veen]

Is using a tinted oil finish okay (e.g. Rubio Monocoat)? Or is that equivalent to staining?

 

[Bromley]

Follow ur heart.

 

[Loathing]

This is very cool. Making of a Noguchi Akari lamp.

 

[venessian]

This is very cool. Making of a Noguchi Akari lamp.

Super.

I need a replacement shade for one (1A)...the shade is ~90% the cost of an entire new lamp. So, very fairly priced actually.

 

[lefty]

Making of a Noguchi Akari lamp.

That was cool, but I wanted to see how he got the cardboard form out.

Rago modern auction is up with some beautiful Evans and affordable Phillip Lloyd Powell work from the home of Martin Brooks.

https://www.ragoarts.com/auctions/2021/05/modern-design

lefty

 

[GeneralEmployer]

I found that Newson Cappellini auction the day it was listed. We DO NOT need another blowup spot for furniture.

I hate you guys.

And answer my PM Matt. Damn you. I love you.

 

[venessian]

That was cool, but I wanted to see how he got the cardboard form out.

They are re-usable wood forms, secured and tensioned for the bamboo + washi paper layup, then collapsed and removed after the piece has cured.

Here is another video which goes further than the one @Loathing posted.
Curing starts at 05:15; form removal starts at 06:10.

 

[lefty]

Right. I missed the wide opening on the bottom.

Thanks.

lefty

 

[NorCal]

In honor of Foo:

Il

 

[double00]

any reco's for DIY lamp hardware that people like? this is a good sized table lamp

 

[JPHardy]

This is very cool. Making of a Noguchi Akari lamp.

That was great.
The couple that built my home in 69 were big fans. They put 4 in. I kept two in the great room, one being a 120A.