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I was thinking specifically of Mellor's Minimal cutlery set. Especially with the knives the drop in functionality seems too steep, though I could be wrong. I'm now sort of curious to try them. I'm ashamed to confess that I like the look of them though they may be a bit too showy -- I think my spouse would find them pretentious, and I tend to defer to her as she's an accomplished artist whereas I'm just a professional nerd. The Pride set is an accomplished design in my view.
On whether most lauded modern designs fail, well, perhaps your modus tollens is my modus ponens. I only like very few things, and tend to prefer underdesigned things or even bog standard crap to overdesigned items.
Unfortunately, flatware design is tragically under-examined. It is challenging to find any thoughtful discussion or experiences. However, anecdotally, people who have used the likes of the Mellor Minimal or Pott 35 seem to have no complaints about their functionality; in fact, the Pott stuff is supposedly perfectly balanced. In contrast, I have heard from multiple sources that Jacobsen’s famous set for Georg Jensen is problematic and impractical.
I don’t like over or under-designed things. My personal measure of design is the degree to which an object invites and elevates its intended use. Functionality is core to this, but not sufficient. Jasper Morrison is my favorite contemporary designer—his design philosophy and work are pretty spot-on to me.