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Cool furniture, design objects and desiderata

Discussion in 'Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto' started by gdl203, Oct 22, 2008.

  1. otc

    otc Senior member

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    From a quick google, it sounds like the Deft product is pretty similar to the Watco version. If that is the case, I don't know how good of a surface it will leave for a tabletop. If you are kind to your table it will be ok, but it sounds like the waterlox provides a much more impervious surface. Maybe follow up with a coat of something else just on the tabletop?

    My method with the danish oil was pretty similar to what this woman is doing:
    http://wooditis.blogspot.com/2008/05/watco-danish-oil-come-oil-and-laugh.html
    combined with several other sets of written instructions detailing the wetsanding method. Basically I just went with what felt right to me for the size of piece I was working with.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2012
  2. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    If I'm not mistaken, the Watco oil is just straight oil- no urethane, correct? The Deftoil will be a little more durable. Still, I was thinking of waxing it or even coming over the top with a couple coats of Deft's clear wood finish in matte or semi-gloss. I sanded out so many little nicks and dings that I don't want to have to do that again anytime soon.
     
  3. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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  4. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Zissou, I've tried many oils and find waterlox to be the only one that really holds up well.

    I prep tables with a 6" random orbit down to 220, if by hand I would take it to 320, then buff it out with 0000 steel wool prior to oiling. I clear the grain prior to oiling and also usually buff with a cotton cloth.

    CT. That setup is pretty sweet.
     
  5. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    Do you think it would look weird in my living room?

    I will be living in a small condo in a year or two and I don't plan on buying new furniture.
     
  6. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    I've never seen your living room, post a pic.

    There is a lot of mid-century and modern housing in Cali so I imagine it could look great in the right house. I've sat in them, they're very nice, and it's not out of place in a living room.

    It was originally designed as an indoor/outdoor lounge seat for the J Irwin Miller house, which is about as mid-century as it gets.

    It's go well with pretty much anything Saarinen, Mid-Century Danish or Eames without looking the least bit out of place.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  7. otc

    otc Senior member

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    After one coat, I am liking the result of this finish a lot. Makes me wish I had used this on my bed (which was also unfinished pine, albeit slightly higher quality stock) instead of just sanding it and using wipe-on poly.
     
  8. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    OK then. Woodcraft in the big city stocks Waterlox, so I will go get some this week. By 'clearing the grain' do you mean blowing the pieces with compressed air?

    CalTex- Herman Miller is 15% off at sit4less.com today.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  9. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Sometimes i just use a tack cloth.

    15% of at DWR also, and I can hook you up on HM.
     
  10. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    ^I'm glad I listened to your advice on using Waterlox. What a nice product! I have four thin coats on so far, and I'll probably to a light sanding to knock down any raised grain or dust (not much) before the final one or two coats. Thankfully, we have had a stretch of warmer weather, so I can apply it outside, and let it cure in my shed with a heater going. I was able to get about 90% of the blemishes out, and it's looking beautiful at this point!

    How long do you usually let it cure before using the piece of furniture? I'm not in a huge rush to use it, so I will try to give it a couple weeks.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  11. BBSLM

    BBSLM Senior member

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    Can anyone ID these chairs? They don't seem to be HM or Krueger.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2012
  12. Find Finn

    Find Finn Senior member

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  13. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Zissou,

    No prob, I usually let it cure for a couple days, then apply museam wax. Then use. Also, for something that gets lighter use then a table, I'll apply it in a wipe on fashion like any other oil finish, build up enough that it starts to fill in the grain and leave a low luster. Just something to keep in mind if you restore other peices.
     
  14. BBSLM

    BBSLM Senior member

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    I don't think that's it. The back looks more narrow, and the base looks different.

    My brother's fiance bought five of them for $75 locally, and the sticker on them reads "AMK Retro White Bucket chair".

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2012
  15. otc

    otc Senior member

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  16. Find Finn

    Find Finn Senior member

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    It's either them or some sort of replica.
     
  17. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    Genius!

    How did you work that out?
     
  18. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    I've actually been wiping it on so far, but I think I might brush the last couple of coats to build a slightly heavier layer. The grain is just sparkling in the light- really beautiful.

    What is museum wax? I have some Howard Feed N Wax that I was thinking of using. It contains orange oil, carnauba wax, and beeswax.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2012
  19. converge

    converge Senior member

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    Not even close.
     
  20. Find Finn

    Find Finn Senior member

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    Yeah they are worlds apart

    [​IMG]
     

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