Construction of Summer-Weight Jacket

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by Bongo, May 14, 2016.

  1. Bongo

    Bongo Member

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    I'm interested in a summer-weight, reasonably breathable navy blazer for summer. I plan to have it made by MyTailor.com, which does most of my tailored clothing.

    I'm curious about whether the basic construction should change to keep it breathable and reasonably cool. In other words, is full-canvas the best construction for a summer-weight jacket, or is it better to move to half-canvas? Should the jacket be fully-lined or half-lined? Any other structural changes to consider to keep it breathable and appropriate for summer? I plan to use tropical-weight wool fabric.

    I started thinking about a change in construction based on the description of this Crombie jacket: https://www.crombie.co.uk/mens/navy-hopsack-wool-half-lined-summer-blazer-ss15.html.


    Thanks for any insights.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2016


  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Switching from full to half canvas won't change much for breathability. I would stick with full canvas and just have it quarter lined.
     


  3. Bongo

    Bongo Member

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    Thanks. Very helpful.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     


  4. Simone1

    Simone1 Senior member

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    Lining suprisingly does a lot for the temperature courses, even if you have the most openly woven fabric, a lining will restrict airflow most certainly. I personally like when my summer jackets are half lined, meaning that only shoulders and sleeves are lined. I think that is the perfect option between not lining it and getting it completely lined. Half lined coats just drape better, and they are more comfortable to me.

    I'd suggest a half canvassed. Obviously full canvassed jackets will be the best to keep you cool, but it is also often at a luxury price point. A half canvas construction will also do great work!
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2016


  5. Bongo

    Bongo Member

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    Thanks, Simone1.
     


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'll throw in my vote for full canvas, half lining, and maybe choose a more open weave, for breathability. iirc, @jefferyd at one point pointed out the futility of "half canvas".
     


  7. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    The lining makes very little difference to how cool or not a jacket is. Indeed, I'd say that if you get a jacket made up from a very lightweight fabric, then it needs some support in the lining else it simply won't drape properly. A light, airy fabric is a good way to go, but I have a jacket made from a lightweight Fox flannel that is fully canvassed and fully lined and is still like a gossamer and light as a feather.

    I have a jacket made up from HFW's Portofino IV bunch. Fully lined and canvassed by Joe and his team. It's an excellent summer coat.
     


  8. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Andy, I respect your knowledge of clothes and taste, but I have to disagree with you on the lining. In my experience with NYC summers, the lining adds a lot of insulation to a jacket.
     


  9. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    ^^ agreed. Try wearing a fully-lined jacket in Asia's summer humidity....
     


  10. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    That's rather what I've heard as well. All my lighter weight jackets are fully lined.

    I have heard it claimed that there are some advantages to fusing over canvasing with very lightweight fabrics although I'm not hep enough to the nuances of tailoring to know why.
     


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