Constructing 'spalla camicia' - is it advisable to do it with non-Neapolitan tailors?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by FCS, Jul 24, 2006.

  1. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    As a related question, what's the difference between a giacca camicia and a spalla camicia? Is there a difference at all? I seem to recall a long-ago discussion Manton had with Giona Grata (sp?) where it was referred to as a giacca camicia meaning "shirt shoulder". Just curious. Thanks!
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Giaca camicia = shirt jacket. Spalla camicia = shirt shoulder. Basically, with the former, the whole thing is cut and sewn like a shirt. With later, only the shoulder is; the rest is cut and sewn like a tailored jacket.
     


  3. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Giaca camicia = shirt jacket. Spalla camicia = shirt shoulder. Basically, with the former, the whole thing is cut and sewn like a shirt. With later, only the shoulder is; the rest is cut and sewn like a tailored jacket.

    Ah. Excellent. Thank you for that explanation.
     


  4. Hartmann

    Hartmann Senior member

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    Being in Toronto as well, I am curious about which tailor you are referring to. Care to share this info?

    I third this sentiment. Care to share FCS?
     


  5. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    So I am commissioning a suit with this tailor for the first time. While I believe that he is capable of producing high-quality hand-made products, his pedigree is not Neapolitan and I'm interested to get a suit with some Neapolitan traits, especially having the spalla camicia shoulder. Would it be prudent to try that? For whatever it's worth, he's used to apprentice under Caraceni in Milan a long, long time ago and his 'house style' is more toward soft-tailoring, although definitely not as soft as the 'classical' Neapolitan's.

    To avoid confusion, I'm using the term spalla camicia as explained by this article from Manton:
    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...anShoulder.htm


    I'm curious as to what his name is. I assume he's in Toronto?
     


  6. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Common FCS,
    give us some 411 on this "master" tailor's info please.

    Thanks.
     


  7. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Gentlemen, I just messaged you his contact info. Truly sorry for the delay in responding, I was quite swamped with works recently.
     


  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Why does this seem like the beginning of a painful first coming of age bespoke story--version 7666.3? IF you want Napoli, then get Napoli. No subs allowed.
     


  9. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Yes, I have one, albeit a RTW jacket. And it is slightly roped as well.

    I spalla camicia should never be roped, as I understand the term, because the whole point of a spalla camicia is to flatten out any roping by stitching the shoulder seam up against the shoulder side of the seam (on the inside, if you know what I mean).

    That is, a roped spalla camicia, while perhaps possible, would be a total waste of time, effort and money. Are we all sure we're using the term in the same way in this discussion?
     


  10. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Roping occurs on the sleeve side of the seam, not the shoulder side, where the shirt stitching is done.

    --Andre
     


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    grimslade is right: a true SC has no roping. In fact, I don't see how it could, given the way it is made.
     


  12. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Perhaps it's not so much roping but the puff of the sleevehead that resembles roping?

    --Andre
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Perhaps it's not so much roping but the puff of the sleevehead that resembles roping?

    --Andre

    No, that is achieved with an open seam. The whole point of the SC is to remove any possibility of a puff.
     


  14. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Is Bruno Lepore the tailor being discussed?
     


  15. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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