• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Constructing 'spalla camicia' - is it advisable to do it with non-Neapolitan tailors?

FCS

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
So I am commissioning a suit with this tailor for the first time. While I believe that he is capable of producing high-quality hand-made products, his pedigree is not Neapolitan and I'm interested to get a suit with some Neapolitan traits, especially having the spalla camicia shoulder. Would it be prudent to try that? For whatever it's worth, he's used to apprentice under Caraceni in Milan a long, long time ago and his 'house style' is more toward soft-tailoring, although definitely not as soft as the 'classical' Neapolitan's.

To avoid confusion, I'm using the term spalla camicia as explained by this article from Manton:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...anShoulder.htm
 

Tomasso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,078
Reaction score
12
Take a photo of the spalla camicia shoulder to your tailor and ask if he's up to the task. I understand that it's a tricky job, if not regularly practiced, even for the best of tailors.



 

Carlo

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2003
Messages
1,027
Reaction score
3
Even the Neapolitan Mastiff exhibits the dimpled shoulder:
 

acidboy

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
21,169
Reaction score
1,750
Originally Posted by Carlo
Even the Neapolitan Mastiff exhibits the dimpled shoulder:


no pocket squares!
 

brescd01

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
543
Reaction score
6
Do not do it. You will be disappointed, and you should be focusing the tailor's attention on other more important things for your first suit. If you must have Neopolitan, get Neopolitan shirts and pants, which can be ordered by mail.

My opinion alone: imitations of various aspects of Neopolitan tailoring are not particularly attractive. A genuine Neopolitan garment is somehow greater than the sum of its parts.
 

NoVaguy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
6,555
Reaction score
134
gotta agree with bresch. it sounds like a bad idea to ask a non-Neopolitan tailor for a Neopolitan suit. do you have any reason to believe he has experience with this technique?
 

Thracozaag

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Messages
3,134
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by FCS
So I am commissioning a suit with this tailor for the first time. While I believe that he is capable of producing high-quality hand-made products, his pedigree is not Neapolitan and I'm interested to get a suit with considerable Neapolitan traits, especially having the spalla camicia shoulder. Would it be prudent to try that? For whatever it's worth, he's used to apprentice under Caraceni in Milan a long, long time ago and his 'house style' is definitely more toward soft-tailoring, although definitely not as soft as the 'classical' Neapolitan's.

To avoid confusion, I'm using the term spalla camicia as explained by this article from Manton:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...anShoulder.htm


Why not just go with his house style then?

koji
 

FCS

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Thracozaag
Why not just go with his house style then?

koji


Yeah, for the most part I do. I just think that a more organic shoulder would be a very nice touch - that's the only major exception.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,854
Show him a pic and ask him. While that shoulder is one of the hallmarks of Neapolitan tailoring, it is not exclusive to Naples. Tailors all over Italy know how to do it. Two of the tailors who do it well in NYC are not Neapolitan, though at least one of them learned it from a Neapolitan.
 

edmorel

Quality Seller!!
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
25,919
Reaction score
3,496
One thing to consider, have you seen this in person? Tastes are subjective but the ones I've seen are not something I would get. The sleeve looks sloppy for lack of a better word. For my taste it makes the overall look of the suit seem rather awkward. Keep in mind that I am a roped shoulders type of guy.
 

lee_44106

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
8,106
Reaction score
85
What is the advantage of a "spalla camicia?" Manton's article on AAAC clearly delineates the advantages of a Neapolitan shoulder: freedom of arm movement. So other than cosmetic and that "it's just how some Neapolitan tailors construct their jacket shoulders", is it worth the potential trouble to go through the exercise? If your aim to to "tip off" other clothing connoisseurs that you have a genuine bespoke/MTM Neopolitan garment, I truly wonder how many can tell the difference other than requesting that you remove your jacket and let it be examined.
 

EL72

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
6,860
Reaction score
4
Being in Toronto as well, I am curious about which tailor you are referring to. Care to share this info?
 

Ranjeev

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
352
Reaction score
11
I'm in the same boat as EL72 and would like to find out who the tailor in question is.
 

FCS

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by edmorel
One thing to consider, have you seen this in person? Tastes are subjective but the ones I've seen are not something I would get. The sleeve looks sloppy for lack of a better word. For my taste it makes the overall look of the suit seem rather awkward. Keep in mind that I am a roped shoulders type of guy.

Yes, I have one, albeit a RTW jacket. And it is slightly roped as well.
 

FCS

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Manton
Show him a pic and ask him. While that shoulder is one of the hallmarks of Neapolitan tailoring, it is not exclusive to Naples. Tailors all over Italy know how to do it. Two of the tailors who do it well in NYC are not Neapolitan, though at least one of them learned it from a Neapolitan.

Thanks Manton, I'll discuss this further with him. Good to hear that you know some non-Neapolitan tailors doing it.
 

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite pair of shoes to wear with jeans? (Choose two)

  • Boots (Chelsea, Chukkas, Balmorals, etc.)

  • Loafers

  • Work boots (Red Wing, Wolverine, etc.)

  • Monk strap shoes

  • Oxford / Derby shoes

  • Sneakers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
425,952
Messages
9,160,147
Members
192,407
Latest member
bighomiee1

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top