Conservative, But Slim Fit Suits

[rox]

Hello,

I'm looking to buy a couple mid-priced suits. However, I have a very lanky frame. I'm 6'3", 175-80, 15.5 neck, 35.5" arms, and 33" waist. I normally wear a 42L or 52L (eur), sometimes a 41L. The suits I have now are boxier abboud/hart, schaftner, marx type suits that don't really fit, although I have had my excellent vietnamese tailor do extensive alterations to make them tolerable. I'm basically a Paul Smith salesman's dream. However, since I'm an attorney, my dress needs to be more conservative. I was hoping for some suggestions on suits in the 1000-1750 retail range that are conservative and have the cut I need. I particularly like my suits generous in length and light in shoulder padding. TYIA.

 

[billiebob]

Maybe the Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald model? I've yet to see it in person, but the ad copy suggests it's Brooks slimmest suit.

I like Polo suits for their light shoulder padding, and while they have nice shape and waist suppression, they are quite conservative in solid colors. The Polo pinstripe is a little loud. Ralph Lauren black label is cut quite slim, but most people on the board would consider them overpriced for the construction quality. On sale they may be just what you're looking for.

Either of these (as well as Corneliani) will be much slimmer than HSM.

 

[rox]

Thanks. Also, does anyone have experience with dunhill suits? I recently tried a 52L 2 button dunhill on. The fit seemed about right before tailoring.

 

[odoreater]

Originally Posted by rox

Thanks. Also, does anyone have experience with dunhill suits? I recently tried a 52L 2 button dunhill on. The fit seemed about right before tailoring.

I think Dunhill is kind of hit or miss. If the suit is "Made in Italy" it's usually a pretty good suit, canvassed, etc., if the suit is "Made in Japan" I believe it's the lower quality line (somebody might want to chime in because I might have this reversed).

You might also want to look into Corneliani. In fact, I think Corneliani may be exactly what you are looking for - their suits have a generally lean cut, but are still fairly conservative and perfectly appropriate for the work environment (I'm also a lawyer and wear Corneliani suits to work almost every day).

Also, are you sure you have your size right? I wear a 42L, and I'm 6'2", 215 lbs, with a 17.5" neck. It seems kind of strange that at 180 lbs, and taller than me, with a much skinnier neck that you would have the same chest size. Perhaps you might do better going down to a 40L.

 

[drizzt3117]

Originally Posted by odoreater

I think Dunhill is kind of hit or miss. If the suit is "Made in Italy" it's usually a pretty good suit, canvassed, etc., if the suit is "Made in Japan" I believe it's the lower quality line (somebody might want to chime in because I might have this reversed).

You might also want to look into Corneliani. In fact, I think Corneliani may be exactly what you are looking for - their suits have a generally lean cut, but are still fairly conservative and perfectly appropriate for the work environment (I'm also a lawyer and wear Corneliani suits to work almost every day).

Also, are you sure you have your size right? I wear a 42L, and I'm 6'2", 215 lbs, with a 17.5" neck. It seems kind of strange that at 180 lbs, and taller than me, with a much skinnier neck that you would have the same chest size. Perhaps you might do better going down to a 40L.

I could be incorrect, but isn't European 52L more like 40L?

 

[southgate house]

A Euro 52 is technically speaking a US 41. I'm 6'4" and about 180 though, and I typically wear a 40L US.

 

[rox]

Originally Posted by odoreater

I think Dunhill is kind of hit or miss. If the suit is "Made in Italy" it's usually a pretty good suit, canvassed, etc., if the suit is "Made in Japan" I believe it's the lower quality line (somebody might want to chime in because I might have this reversed).

You might also want to look into Corneliani. In fact, I think Corneliani may be exactly what you are looking for - their suits have a generally lean cut, but are still fairly conservative and perfectly appropriate for the work environment (I'm also a lawyer and wear Corneliani suits to work almost every day).

Also, are you sure you have your size right? I wear a 42L, and I'm 6'2", 215 lbs, with a 17.5" neck. It seems kind of strange that at 180 lbs, and taller than me, with a much skinnier neck that you would have the same chest size. Perhaps you might do better going down to a 40L.

I have very broad but thin shoulders. I've never tried on a 40L that was either broad enough at the shoulders or long enough. Sometimes I can fit in a 41L, but generally I have to buy 42L suits and have alot of material taken out of them. I'm assuming that Corneliani comes in euro sizes anyway.

 

[lasbar]

Corneliani is offering good quality , design and cut...
As said earlier on a different post , i find Corneliani a descent compromise between conservative design suits ,sartorial elegance and a decent price tag....
Pal Zileri and Zegna will be in the same category....
A bit above Canali and under the Brioni,Oxxford and other more expensive sartorial propositions...