consensus on RRL denim

[whodini]

Originally Posted by Teger

I don't think that construction wise RRL is inferior to any brand really (although I've never owned 5EP), I just think that the color of the dye isn't as rich as some Japanese jeans I've seen (although this might be more of an aesthetic choice rather than a consequence of production), and that the denim isn't quite as nice as these same brands. That said, my personal views on this could be as much of a byproduct of my personal taste, which in the end, is what it really comes down to in ranking jeans.
Again, we're talking about different blends of indigo; a red car isn't faster than a yellow car. 5EP is known for being some of the best denim around and Christine brought over her tastes from RRL when she had the 5epxsf in mind. If anything, RRL stands out to my eye a lot more than anything else. Also, Japanese repro brands all use completely different kinds of denim so I really don't know how you could say that SC Okinawa denim is as good as DB sushi ear even though they're made of completely different materials...but RRL isn't as good. If you don't like it, fine. I'm not sure if it's entirely justified (most biases aren't) especially when you consider the fact that RRL for all intensive purposes was a completely Japanese jean unlike today. So, all Japanese brands are better than MIJ RRL?

Okay...

Originally Posted by Teger

Also, the whole RRL line is definitely channeling vintage work wear, although less so with their recent jeans/shirts. I don't think they're selling a jean right now with things like buckle backs or suspender buttons (which, granted, can be found on a lot of Japanese brands). Also, they definitely offer some really destroyed/patched washes that are going for a worn-for-10-years-working-on-a-farm feel.
Take a look at Self Edge and see how many brands are "channeling vintage work wear." RRL did sell a jean this season with bucklebacks (and did so in the past, too. Take a look on ebay); they left the suspender buttons, to my knowledge, to their chino line.

Originally Posted by Teger

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned so far that gives RRL a +1 in my book is that they only offer (to my knowledge) one STF model, the rest of their jeans are sanforized, so there's really no mystery to sizing. Both the RRL pairs I have haven't really stretched either, so there's no sizing down beyond specific fit considerations. All this aside, I would definitely recommend RRL to anyone looking for jeans, and I love the two pairs I own, and would not hesitate to purchase another pair, even at full retail.
That was the whole problem of the generation I've been, and presumably you've been, talking about: sizing. It wasn't until a generation or two later that they stopped with extreme vanity sizing (28 for a measured 32). Are you sure you're thinking of the same RRL that I, Harris, mainy, and others have? Stretching is pretty much based on the wearer and the denim; APC clearly has issues but other high end brands don't. If anything after two years of wearing my RRLs I'd say they're pretty much back to where they were originally because of slight shrinking due to washes.

 

[dfagdfsh]

I should of clarified: one of the good points with RRL NOW is that they got their sizing cleared up. That's why I said earlier in the thread that there are advantages to buying at full retail. I also never said I didn't like RRL... I own two pairs. My whole point is that, beyond objective facts (things like denim origin, features), it's hard to reall qualify any denim as the 'best'. I'm glad you're happy with your jeans, but at a point, it comes down to a matter of taste. The fact that this conversation is happening at all about jeans you can score on ebay for $50 or $200 in a store is a testament to how nice they really are. And yes, I had a pair of the RRL with terrible sizing and blue selvage. I liked the denim a ton but they didn't fit, and had to go back up on ebay.

 

[A Harris]

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

are you really sure about that? i cant believe they can be better than fh, sc, and 5ep, perhaps on par but how can you empirically compare and determine it can be better than the denim used by those brands?

There is nothing empirical about it. It's just that when I compare all my jeans side to side the RRL denim appeals to me more than all the others, by a good margin (unfortunately the fit is slim and goes with only a couple of my jackets so they don't see a lot of wear.) That denim looked rather unremarkable when it was new/unwashed, but once it had been washed it came alive. As Who says it has a soft and hairy finish that is quite unique, the closest I've seen to it is my Flat Head. I'd imagine that my 5EP would have looked similar, but I never washed them, and they were more greencast. The color of my RRL is PERFECT, at least to me. If I could get the right fit in that denim I'd probably never wear anything else.

Slight aside - of all the jeans I've owned I'd rate the RRL denim as my favorite followed by 2) 5EP, 3) Ironheart 4) Flat Head. In terms of fit it would be a 3-way tie between the Earnest Sewn Fulton, Ironheart 634S, and Flat Head 3005. All three are different sorts of fits, but executed perfectly for what they are. In terms of detailing and trims 5EP is easily the best, by a good margin.

Originally Posted by whodini

Yup, those are the ones.

Again, it's to each their own in terms of what people want or expect from their denim. If you're grading them on dye alone to Japanese repros then you're comparing apples and oranges. Sami/WH/PBJ/FH go for a blueberry blue; the natural indigo and pure indigo blend that Godmother used for the 5epxsf is as close as anything I've ever seen compare to RRL's turquoise-green tint. One blend doesn't make another inherently inferior to another.


The denim itself has a very soft, fuzzy hand in comparison to the starched-to-cardboard feel of other brands. Not really a factor of quality but more of personal taste.

 

[whodini]

The soothing sound of reason... I agree about the washing. I liked them raw but when I one day threw them in the washer I loved them.

 

[dfagdfsh]

This thread makes me really look forward to the getting a pair of 5EP.

 

[Willsw]

My RRLs were acquired through this forum, and my post-SF jeans before that were a pair of Uniqlo and those Gap selvedge jobs. I was hoping they were raw, but they had some kind of wash - there was no fading, just what looked like tar in a few places. Odd, but hardly noticeable. They are my slimmest pair of jeans and my favorite, though I'll probably be looking for something in between these and the straight fit Uniqlos for my next pair. I would definitely enjoy another pair, but for the retail (I think mine were tagged $265) I would go for something else I haven't tried.

But yeah, really like them.

 

[coopster]

Just bought a pair of APC rescues today because i was in westwood and hollywood was just one town over. I went in telling myself that I would just try them on and next thing I know i carrying them out of the APC store thinking "dammit" (but in a good way i guess).

In comparison I would have to say the APCs are a little more rigid and they seem to have a sheer to them. Both are dark denim but the RRLs seem to be a more natural hue of what one might think of when the think of denim. I LOVE the length of the APCs I am a little fearful with my APCs because I am not sure I downsized enough. I couldn't come close to fitting my hands in the front pocket without an awkward twisting and contorting move so that was the deal breaker. I love both and I guess time will tell which turns out to work the best for me.

 

[whodini]

They're going to be more rigid and have more of a sheen because APC pours starch on them the way Kayne pours champagne on models.

 

[coopster]

i see...

 

[enjoyapple]

Hi i'm from France and am desperatly looking for RRL slimboot cut 32x32 or 33x32, washed color.
I just can find any of them on ebay (I used to find some for a hundred bucks a few months a go) so if you guys have some to sell... please let me know
[email protected]
thanks so much.

 

[noretailplease]

Walked into the Ralph Lauren store in south coast plaza today and I stumbled upon their selvage denim RRL line of jeans which were "slim bootcut". They had my size and i tried them on. The were a little tight and they had some stitching on the front pocket that i wasnt thrilled about but they fit great. My question is how their denim compares to APC and other premium selvage jeans. Also do I need to size down 3 sizes like i would with APC?

thanks

this appears to be what I got - ca. 2008.

 

[gnatty8]

this appears to be what I got - ca. 2008.

whoa