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Conical Cuffs on bespoke shirts - who's tried this?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jhilla, Mar 5, 2013.

  1. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Crompton wrote an article for The Rake on Sartriano Cinque Bespoke Shirts about a year ago. In it he addresses a specific technique that they use for their shirt cuffs.

    [​IMG]


    Quote: I particularly hate shirt cuffs that don’t fit close to my wrist. It’s a little annoyance that I’ve never been able to find a solution for. If you make the cuff too tight it will stay put, but won’t be comfortable. Too loose and it feels sloppy. This is the first time I’ve ever seen a practical solution to the problem.

    Has anyone tried this out with their bespoke shirtmakers? If so, how were the results? I think I'm going to take my first Bespoke plunge soon with shirts (been saying that for some time now) and it would be great to get something like this to alleviate the problem.

    Any feedback from Shirtmaven would be particularly helpful.

    Jeff
     
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I tried before, however it is just another design of cuff. Plus such cuff is going to limit the size of the watches you can wear.
    Overall, I still find french cuff the best.
     
  3. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah that doesn't look to comfortable and just think about everytime you raise your arm for anything, the cuff will move up and get stuck and you'll be pulling it down all day. Seems like one of those things that looks great in pics but the practicality of it is questionable.
     
  4. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    This^ and that^^^!
     
  5. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Ed, if you build in a little bit of room in the sleeve length, shouldn't that limit the problem?

    There was a great video a couple months back of the owners of Hamilton Shirts explaining that instead of shortening your shirt sleeves, you should simply make a better fitting cuff. As a result, when you raise your hand the cuffs stay put as they have some wiggle room to extend. And I think that's the logic behind this type of idea - you would never run into your cuff moving up and down but it would still fit snugly and stop right before the bend of your wrist. The criticism is obviously that you don't want your shirt sleeves to be so long they billow, but I think if you are going bespoke this shouldn't be a problem.

    Also, I don't wear huge watches so building in extra cuff room for that has always seemed silly to me. I'd enact the Agnelli/Barbera watch/cuff trick before doing that (jokes).
     
  6. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    I should also mention that I realize this is a subjective topic as some people can't stand close fitting cuffs. But I fall in the complete opposite camp and hate the feeling of cuffs creeping into the lower part of my hand.
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    well, I'm not a shirtmaker but more length would lead to a bit of bunching so it comes down to what do you prefer, a cleaner sleeve or a tighter cuff. I have no issue with the normal cuffs but I guess if you want a tight cuff this would work but I don't understand the need for the conical shape, you can make a normal cuff as tight around the wrist as you want.
     
  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    looks gimmicky to me. theres nothing wrong with a normal cuff.
     
  10. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Senior member

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    Stephen Lachter makes a similar cuff -- he calls it a "flowerpot cuff". Though when worn, it doesn't look any different than a normbal barrel cuff.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Andrey
     
  11. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    so what would the difference be between these and a standard 2 button cuff buttoned on the second button to make it tighter? im failing to see the ingenuity/necessity here.
     
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Well, for one, if you move the second button in, but keep the first still, you no longer have a straight edge on the cuff, where the buttonholes are. :foo: will probably notice this on your bathroom fit pics, and you'll likely be deducted a full :foo: point.

    Kind of a big deal since most people only get two :foo: points in the first place.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
    3 people like this.
  13. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    win. so much win here. :lol:
     
  14. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    Hilla, you ever had a bespoke shirt made? It seems this would be a great instance of "ask your tailor." FWIW I don't have any special cuff design on my shirts and they are neither too wide nor too narrow because they are measured for my wrist. Granted, I always add 0.5" to my left wrist for watch space, but that doesn't affect the basic barrel design.
     
  15. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shirt cuffs are normally cut straight. To get the conical shape you need to cut them on a curve, which is why the stripes on the cuff in the OP's photo are wonky.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    I have not, I'm in the process of trying to figure out who I want to start with. I thought I knew who I wanted but the minimum order prevented me from being able to try them (quoted me 6 and I scoffed, naturally). So, you're right in your assumption that I'm kinda speaking with limited knowledge here. With that being said, I do know what I like.


     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  17. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think so, but the best way to find out if you like it or not is to try it. It's just a cuff. You can have your shirt maker make an extra pair of cuffs cut straight so if the experiment is a failure you can swap the cuffs out.
     
  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    FWIW jhilla, the shirtmaker we were talking about that does that for free. At least from my experience, I wanted to experiment on a collar, but wasn't sure what I would do if the experiment went bad. They said they'd try it out with the new collar, and if I didn't like it, they'd just make my old style and swap it out. Seemed like a safe bet, so I gave it a shot and the experiment worked out.

    I'm sure they're not the only people who offer that, of course.
     
  19. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Thanks Derek, I appreciate that. I think I'd be willing to give it a try then, just to convince myself whether or not it's a novelty.
     
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I don't think there's a timeline on it either. They regularly replace old cuffs and collars on shirts they've produced with the same fabric from that run. So this would be the same, only you'd be doing it earlier than the usual ~few years timeline.

    But like I said, I'm sure they're not the only ones who do it. I wouldn't be surprised if this were a regular service at any good operation.
     

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