I'm just curious what people's opinions are in comparing the two. I just confirmed my fitting on thursday for the first of two new bespoke jackets. I'm quite a bit more experienced with various silhouettes since my first bespoke job and i'm leaning towards soft tailoring from now on. I try to wear a jacket every day so comfort is of paramount importance. My last jacket, which featured relatively light padding and roped sleeveheads was cut with too little allowance in the places that mattered for freedom of movement. It's largely my fault because i thought i could have a perfectly clean, smooth exterior and complete freedom of movement, however I now know better. I'm going to have it altered, but not until next year. I'm still working-out but it's going a lot slower since the doctor told me to stop taking protein. On my new jackets i'm going to ask him to build in a tiny little allowance (I'm not trying to get huge). This shouldn't be a big deal since size 38 borrellis fit well and look very good on me, although my first bespoke measures out to a 37.5. It should be said that neopolitan isn't this tailor's regular style, however the nature of his business is such that he cuts all sorts of different silhouettes as opposed to sticking to just one and i'm quite confident he can pull it off. He does lots of soft tailoring for a big client in new york so none of this will be completely new to him. He has done this type of shoulder in the past, although not recently. Regardless, I'm not endeavoring to have a true neapolitan jacket made, for that would mean that it is to be un-padded, but more a copy of an borrelli style of coat with light padding. If I understand thigns correctly, borrelli makes their jackets with a trumpet sleeve con rollino? One thing I am confused about is that my borrelli jackets have the gathered cloth and puffed sleevehead indicative of con rollino, yet there is also pick-stitching on top of the shoulder which is suggestive of spalla camicia. I'm not wearing one right now so i can't do a close enough inspection to really determine which is is. Can anyone answer for me? It's also possible that the construction is con rollino but that the pick-stitching over the shoulder is done purely for aesthetic reaons. My last question is what tends to happen to the alignment of a windowpane when you make a trumpet sleeve? Does it throw-off the alignment of the horizontal lines by a significant or insignificant amount? I'd think that it would have to, but looking at the pictures that have been posted of neapolitan jackets (mine are all plain), that doesn't seem to be the case. In percentage terms, how much does the circumference of the armscye and sleevehead generally vary? Lastly, I'll be printing out Manton's terrific post and bringing it with me for the diagrams, just so there are no misunderstandings between my tailor and I.