Comparison of 6 BADLY Fitted Jackets

[Garbz]

They all need to have the sleeves turned up (rotated up, is what I mean): notice how they all have diagonal creases behind the arm? Consequence of a rather upright stance: your arm is hanging more to the back than with most people.
Number 5 is nice. Indeed your shoulder is low, ought to be fixed to, that ought to take care of the unsightly lines under your right arm.

 

[Dragon]

Looking at the front shots, you have your arms spread out for some reason. Did you take the side shots with the same stance? If so, maybe that is the reason the sleeves appear to fit so poorly.

 

[tiecollector]

#3 is definitely the best fit. The shoulders fit the best and the jacket contours to your body more.

#1 is the second best. the shoulders look a little wide, however, This is a problem I often face with RTW. I just today had to decide whether to get the 42R blazer that fit a little bit better in the chest but had the shoulders a little too wide and everything would needed altering, or the 40R, where the chest was a little tighter, but still manageable, and didn't seem to need any further altering. So I went with the 40R since the shoulders fit better. It was also a 2 button, which is more lenient in the chest, the 3 button I probably would have opted for a 42R.

I like #5 also, I don't know why Banana Republic makes their jackets as if they are expecting you to have a huge pot belly. I only buy BR jackets on clearance (last one i got for $80) and then I pay my tailor to take up the sleeves and take in the two back side seems to make it contour to my body more. Sometimes some other things too. Usually costs me about $70 to alter one of their jackets, but I like them in the end and they contour to my slim body fairly well after alteration.

BTW if your shoulders drop to one side, you should see a chiropractor. Did wonders for me, I had the same thing going on. Feels really good too.

 

[stephen]

Originally Posted by chobochobo

So except for no.1, you've actually tried all the others on before buying?
Unfortunately, no. Most stores (like Brooks Brothers) don't carry 42XL. And the only way I'll buy a 42L is if it's on clearance at Banana Republic on-line. #2 -- Was fitted to me by a Men's Warehouse representative (first college interview suit). Then I bought two shirts, a couple ties, and a pair of braces (which I have never used). Yes, I'm an idiot. #3 -- I had two fittings at the Shanghai tailor before I had to come back from vacation. Yeah, it's a bit form fitting. (Especially the pants -- I'm not sure what type of ultra-euro cut the guy was going for...) I get really frustrated shopping in-person at traditional stores. There are ZERO stores that carry shirts with arms long enough for me, and there are ZERO stores that carry size 36-37 inseam lengths on pants. Part of the reason of this post was to get some suggestions on fitting so I could remeasure myself and submit the new specs to an online tailor.

 

[Ivan Kipling]

Sleeves have always been the nemesis of fine couture. Chanel used often to keep her models on their feet for hours on end, pins jabbing into their underarms in order to get her sleeves and armholes, the way she wanted them. Often times, she was never satisfied.

This photo, demonstrates the perfection of a Balenciaga sleeve. Twenty-six couture fittings, were sometimes required, before Balenciaga gave his seal of approval, on a garment. Perfection of line was his obsession; sleeves often ruined the desired effect. In order to achieve the desired lightness to his flou fits, Balenciaga required models to move, while being fitted. He was not able to decide on the fit of a garment, by having a model stand still, before him. Saint Laurent, did the same thing.

When Balenciaga did the uniforms for Air France stewardesses, he asked for a couture fitting for each and every woman: three thousand of them. I don't think his request was granted.

 

[tiecollector]

Try http://www.jantzentailor.com/ to get some custom fit shirts. I am going to take the plunge here shortly. But have a tailor measure you.

Nordstrom Rack seems to carry longer styles. I wear a 15-1/2 / 34-35 shirt usually but some of the designer brands there I am a 15 / 32-33 and I see measurements go into the 36-37 for sleeve length.

For the jackets I am a 42L according to my tailor. I just tried on some Hugo Boss, Zegna, Canali blazers but the 42L was a few inches too long on all the blazers. When you start getting to more trendy guys like Ben Sherman, a long would have been fine, even though for the trendier stuff I like a shorter jacket.

So check out the Nordstrom Rack. They also carry unfinished-bottom pants, just picked up a plaid pair today. So I will wash them and then take them to be hemmed.

 

[Carey]

I would take 1, 3, & 5 to a reputable tailor (get a reccommendation from someone you trust, if you don't know of one). Ask him for an estimate of what it would cost to fit these as you would like them (e.g. take in the waist, fix the skirt on #4 so it does not pull the side vents, rotate sleeves if they don't have the right pitch).

All of this could prove to be very expensive, so you may want to pick just one or two. My tailor charged me $75.00 to reset one sleeve because it was improperly sewn into the shoulder. If # 3 was made for you, see what he can do to stop the vent from opening up. Hopefully there is enough fabric for him to work with.

In the future, I would invest more time in trying on better garments. If you have limited funds, you have a Nordstrom Rack at Mall of Georgia, and a Filene's Basement across from Phipps Plaza. You have many choices for fine men's clothing in Atlanta. I really like H. Stockton at Lenox Mall. They probably still have some stuff on sale, so they are worth a look.
At least you might try some suits on that fit yor ideal, the guys in there will be happy to help you find what you desire. They want to sell you something, but they also want you to have a good experince so you will come back. These guys are probably more career oriented in menswear than someone who clerks at Banana Republic.

Good luck.

 

[lakewolf]

Number 3 ! It has one sleeve shorter tough

 

[tiecollector]

Another reason #3 might look odd to some is that is a euro kind of cut but the pants are kind of casual american. Perhaps with those pants #1 is the best, I just think the shoulders are a little too wide, I don't know why so many RTW make the shoulders so bloody wide.

 

[Leaveitothexperts]

#4 and #5. Thumbs down!

All others seem OK with #3 and #1 being the best, in that order.

I like #2 but I it looks a little too long. #6 is too straight, may need the waist taken in a little.

 

[Ivan Kipling]

Here's another example of tailoring mastery. This jacket is from Saint Laurent, rive gauche. My sister owns it. Imagine being able to achieve this purity of line, in ready-to-wear! Amazing. note the unusually steep placement of the left, 'breast' pocket.

 

[stephen]

Originally Posted by tiecollector

Another reason #3 might look odd to some is that is a euro kind of cut but the pants are kind of casual american. Perhaps with those pants #1 is the best, I just think the shoulders are a little too wide, I don't know why so many RTW make the shoulders so bloody wide.
That's a good point -- I'm wearing boring Banana Republic chinos with this. They're significantly bulkier than the suited pants that come with the #3. In fact, I may post a thread on pant fit comparisons in a bit. That's my one main problem with that suit -- the pants are WAY too tight. I have relatively thin legs and a small seat, but I don't want to have to worry about "showing inappropriate outlines" everytime I sit down. (Sorry, different topic there...)

 

[TCN]

Ivan, very interesting posts, thank you . . . especially the Balenciaga one.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

#3 fits best, although I would lower the buttoning point, I think you should go for a 2 buttons. #6 looks good too.

!luc

 

[Ivan Kipling]

TCN . . . I know many posters find it odd that I concentrate so often on women's clothing . . . but I have found that the perfection that Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent achieved, vis a vis tailoring for women . . . is unsurpassed. I have never yet seen a man's garment . . . even couture, that has been executed with the brilliance and precision, of a YSL or Balenciaga couture garment, for women. I doubt that I ever will.

You may want to see a marvelous DVD called The Life and Times of Yves Saint Laurent, during which YSL is shown fitting his models . . . one such example, a favorite model named Amalia is directed to walk back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, as Saint Laurent and his cohorts, look on. After a long pause, YSL says . . . 'we need a flounce at the bottom.' Truly a fascinating documentary. at amazon.com