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Comparison of 6 BADLY Fitted Jackets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by stephen, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    I'm a little over 6'4" and weigh 175lbs w/ 9% body fat (at 23 years old). I would *love* to be fashionable, but it's close to impossible with my body type (ironically, since I'd like to think my slim/athletic musculature and height is rather ideal...)

    Here are six jackets (two are typically suited) from various vendors. A few are OTR (42L, 42XL) from cheap popular stores (yes, one's a MWH). A couple have had alterations. One is from an overpriced tailor in Shanghai. I'll reveal the details later. I know they're ugly and embarrasingly fitted, don't hate me too much.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If you don't mind, please give me your opinion on the fit & style of each jacket (1-6)...! If you have any suggestions I could bring to a local tailor / alterationist in Atlanta that would give vast improvements, please let me know! Thanks so much!

    Additional Photo Comparisons:

    Open Jacket, Side View

    Closed Jacket, Angle View

    Open Jacket, Angle View
     


  2. Carey

    Carey Senior Member

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    According to Flusser's "Clothes and the Man", the back of the jacket should just cover the under curve of your buttocks. From your pictures #5 seems fit the best from every angle. Some of the others seem not to have a vent, and the one with the side vents should not pull away to reveal your hind quarters.

    You are 6' 4" tall, and very slim. You should be able to find suits and sportcoats that fit your physique, but at what price?

    In the third set of pics (front view) in your post, #5 seems to be a two-button. Had you fastened both? #5 also looks like the best fit through the shoulder. I gave all a quick glance, but #5 seems to be the best.

    Good luck.
     


  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I would say that #3 fits "best" - but could the quarters be even more closed? [​IMG]
     


  4. GSilva

    GSilva Member

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  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The most obvious problem I see is that the fronts all appear to be short, which means your posture sways back. The bad news is, this is a fundamental balance issue that is not likely to be solvable with RTW.
     


  6. poorsod

    poorsod Distinguished Member

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    #3 shoulders fit the best. I agree it is a little short.
     


  7. LabelKing

    LabelKing Stylish Dinosaur

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    The third one is the best fit overall; however, I believe you should get more waist suppression since it tends to look somewhat tubular when buttoned up.

    Indeed, with that body shape, and type, mainstream suiting companies do not make it an ideal; designer
    brands would though.
     


  8. pkincy

    pkincy Senior Member

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    4 should be discarded. The others are serviceable. Not that your right shoulder sits lower than your left. That puts you into bespoke territory.

    Perry
     


  9. Ivan Kipling

    Ivan Kipling Distinguished Member

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    No. 4 looks the most problematic. I need to have seen the model in movement, before deciding whether or not a fine fit, has been achieved.
     


  10. Dragon

    Dragon Distinguished Member

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    Except for #4 and #5, they all look OK.

    Maybe you should try something different besides 3 button. Also, you should try out some different colors, as all the jackets look very similar (or maybe you have different colors already in your closet).
     


  11. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the great comments! Here's a bit more detail (and my thoughts on fit...)

    #1 is an eBay experiment in 42XL (Pavone - Italy). The length and shoulders seem decent, but the middle is made for someone with a belly -- and the fabric isn't very nice.

    #2 is a Men's Warehouse (Joseph & Feiss) in 42XL. I can't believe I spent money on this... the shoulders are way too wide, and I look like I'm swimming in fabric (especially since the pants are 36" double pleated, and I'm a skinny 33").

    #3 is from some Tailor In a Shanghai Mall (Fit Well Fashion). Very trim. Actually fits my shoulders with decent length (as has been mentioned). Probably because it's more like a "40XL"... which isn't an OTR size.

    #4 is a 50/50 linen/cotton blend from Banana Republic (42L). No matter how often I get this pressed, it still looks ratty (definitely a jeans only blazer). It's made for a fat person. Shoulders actually fit ok, though.

    #5 is wool from Banana Republic (42L). I've never worn this one because it's just too big in the middle. (You can kind of see that on the unbuttoned photos.) It's huge. Maybe a tailor can fix that.

    #6 is a wool/silk blend from Banana Republic (42L). This one actually fits rather well (length, shoulders, everything). Kind of surprisng.

    Any other thoughts? Suggestions on what I can tell the tailor to get these fixed? WHY is everything made for people with beer guts?
     


  12. oldseed

    oldseed Senior Member

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    #1 looks the best.

    #3 would fit, if u were buying athletic wear. for a suit it looks cheap.

    sd
     


  13. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    So except for no.1, you've actually tried all the others on before buying?
     


  14. yerfdog

    yerfdog Distinguished Member

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    yeah, #4 looks bad

    The others all look decent - my favorites being 1 and 3. Although 3 seems to be too small, as the side vents obviously flap open a little much
     


  15. Tomasso

    Tomasso Distinguished Member

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