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Commissioning Odd Jackets - Do You Size for a Sweater?

J. Cogburn

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Seems to me that if you plan on wearing a sweater under your hypothesized tweed odd jacket, you should account for that when you're first measured for the thing. How many of you guys do that? I constantly find that coats tailored without that consideration never work very well if at all with sweaters. But ... If you're going to wear that " sweater-ized coat" without a sweater, it may well be Ryan-esque on you. My problem is that I am only likely to wear a sweater under my cool weather coats about 50 percent of the time.

What's a fellow to do?
 
Last edited:

comrade

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Exactly. If you wear the skimpy close- to body-cut that is currently fashionable,
then you are stuck. If you favor a more classical cut with DRAPE, you are home free-
except if you want the jacket to work with ultra bulky knits, which are better worn
under outerwear, ie, Goretex , Barbour, etc shells and the like.
 

lordzork

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What other people are saying about drape seems to be correct. I recently had a couple of jackets made for me, and I simply brought a sweater to the second fitting to make sure it would fit under the jackets. As it happens, it did. Since the fabric of the jackets was a heavier weight, my tailor had already cut them to be slightly more loose than usual. Yet they still look quite fitted, even without the sweater.
 

VinnyMac

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I don't adjust my measurements because I'm very picky about details. If I see a strange bulge or ruffle in my jacket, I won't be able to look away. I can't risk screwing with my measurements. Besides, my sweaters/shirts are VERY slim.
 

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