Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jcep, Sep 28, 2012.
.5 inch difference is 1 inch around, that's quite a bit.
Thanks for all the feedback gentlemen. I hear what you are saying. It may not be a bad idea to start at 8 and then bring it in (at least the first time around) to make sure the leg opening 7.5 isn't overshot. I understand this cut doesn't work for every one but I feel it works well for me because I have big thighs BUT I have very slim calves and ankles. This is because my bone structure is that of a skinny person (ectomorph) but the training has added a bit more volume along some parts of my posterior chain.
Also yes, I am looking for something more slim because I mean I am a 38-39R and a 31-32 waist so I am fairly lean so a boxy cut will look bulky on me. Basically I have the problem that I need a suit that de-emphasizes my legs, butt and that helps me give the appearance of broader shoulders (because while training helps my narrow, sloping shoulders are part of my bone structure)
Anyway hope that helps to get my reasoning across and thanks to those that submitted
The tailor will know what to do, don't worry much.
Personally, I think an English Drape will fit you the best, nipped waist, straight not slim trouser, proper chest drape.
I will start think abut fabrics.
There is nothing wrong with training, but you seem to be going for a look that does not benefit from training.
Also, make sure to have a close look at any tailors roped shoulder work since the Tom Ford roped shoulders are very well done and not that easy to replicate. Other than that everything else should be relatively easy for a good tailor.
Agreed Add911_11. This is part of the reason I am looking for advice on what tailor to go to and any forum members with similar problem areas. I know what I like but I also don't go to the doctor with webmd printouts pretending to have an MD and telling him what to do so I don't plan on doing that to my tailor either. Ultimately, I'm hoping whatever tailor I go to will provide some guidance on what will help me look best.
Do any of the contributors have any ideas on how David Reeves MTM would compare to Giliberto? As much as I have looked for someone posting pictures in their Giliberto sutis, I haven't been able to find one (maybe they are in the WAYWT threads?) and as I was searching, I saw this suit from DR posted on a thread here and it looks AWESOME.
This suit with the shoulders on the tux Jimmy Kimmel wore to the Emmy's are along the lines of what I have in mind
Since you are in NYC i would suggest going into the TF store on madison, or at bergdorfs try on one of the suits there so you can better describe what you want the tailor to do if you decide to go that route. Are you sure you want to go this route though? i always tell people if they want TF get TF, if they want Brioni get Brioni etc. 9 times out of 10 if you ask a tailor to try and copy a design its not going to turn out well.
At that price and for that style, I'd recommend WW Chan. That sort of thing is something they're quite comfortable with.
You might be even able to do something like the Kilgour made in China bespoke for a little bit moar.
I agree with you wholeheartedly.
However, there's things I don't like about Tom ford (huge pocket flaps and huge lapels) and I don't know who's Jimmy Kimmels tailor is but I'm sure he's beyond my pricepoint. Also, as I mentioned I'm only 2 years out of school and thankfully I'm doing well but I also don't think it's financially responsible to drop 5k (i think thats the cost but please correct me if wrong) on TF mtm at this point in my life so I'm looking instead for a tailor that can somewhat guide my preference to get a cool end result that incorporates elements of suits I've seen thanks to many of the active posters on ask Andy and style forum.
The best bespoke/custom suits I've seen posted here from tailors in New York are from Ercoles... they do a nice job with the roped shoulder as well. It's a bit north of your budget I believe, but it's good. You can take a look at New York Ranger's pictures as examples.
At that price point, I most certainly will not call WW Chan, and I live in HK
Any particular reason?
Rethink your approach. Styling features will enhance a well cut suit but won't compensate for a poorly cut suit. The proportion of shoulder to chest to waist to hips, how the jacket and trouser are shaped to your physique and a properly cut trouser will do more to compliment your build than simply asking for rope shoulders or a tapered bottom.
Going MTM is another issue as block patterns and production methods don't provide the flexibility you may benefit from by using someone like Ercoles and his methods.
Go to all the tailors you are considering, discuss the look you want to achieve, ask questions and listen to their suggestions and how they would execute the effects you want. You will know who to work with after this.
I wanted to revisit the above b/c I had been out of the country and just saw the notifications. I actually do own pants like these. If you own any incotex slim they are 7.5 at a size 32 waist (my waist size). And they are a bit like carrots in the cut (meaning they are tappered). Mind you I do not have massive thighs just large considering the rest of my body.
@ Nicola: Actually the V look I am referring to starts at the toes and goes up to the shoulders. the Y look would end at the waist. I do not have legs that are long or lean enough for Y silhouette but I can somewhat create the a V shapped look. I think people traditionally only speak about a V as you referred to it though so my use is probably not SF approved.
If you have big hips or thighs, narrow openings are the last thing you want on your trousers. They will exaggerate the size of your hips and make you look rotund. You want something that falls straight from the hip, not narrows.
Seriously, this is a terrible idea.
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