Commissioning MTM strong (roped?) shoulder suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jcep, Sep 28, 2012.

  1. jcep

    jcep Senior member

    Messages:
    114
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    Hello to the forum,

    I am relatively new to posting but was wondering if some of you might be able to offer assistance with helping me track down a tailor that would be well suited to putting together a suit with the qualities below. As of today I am debating whether going with A. Giliberto or Haramjani brothers. I am looking for the advice of any of you that has had suits made by one of them or by anyone that you think might be able to make a structured (roped?) shoulder a la Tom Ford.

    Reason why I don't just get TF: Cost
    Budget: around 1.5k (I know NY is expensive but I'm a young guy and don't have the resources or lifestyle to justify 5k on a suit. I just want a well constructed garment that will help me look better when I'm wearing it not just as good)
    Age: 24
    Height: 5'9"
    Weight: 165 (dont weight myself often)
    Suit purpose: Special formal occasions or meeting clients
    Reason why this is appropriate: I have fairly standard 38-39R shoulders but a prominent seat with wide hip bones
    Cloth: Nothing too fancy a nice dark blue
    Lapel Size: Nothing too skinny and nothing Tom Ford huge like
    Slim Fit: waist suppression, 7.5-7.75 leg opening (I know it seems narrow but trust me the width of my hip bone makes me have to play with proportions

    Other suit requests if relevant:
    Fit: slim (i.e. maybe stay away from tailors that like to make roomier suits)
    Side tab adjusters on pants
    Double vent
    Have been told that more "open quarters" on the jacket would help mask the size of my hipbone, and and two darts on the seat of my pants would help my pants fit better


    Hopefully one of you can point me in the right direction.
    Thanks in advance and if I have inadvertently violated any forum rule please pardon in advance.

    Best,

    A young guy looking for some wisdom
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2012
  2. jcep

    jcep Senior member

    Messages:
    114
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    Also worth mentioning is that I live in NY
     
  3. topos

    topos Senior member

    Messages:
    189
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn.
     
  4. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

    Messages:
    2,970
    Likes Received:
    277
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
    

    not a good idea
     
  5. jcep

    jcep Senior member

    Messages:
    114
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    Thanks Carl and Topos. For my reference, have any of you seen a suit in this style made by any of these tailors? I know they both make suits for a few clients in different styles (Giliberto allegedly even for presidents and Greenfield stores like Band of Outsiders and Rag & Bone) but I am concerned that this type of shoulder is made by Zegna and that the expertise necessary to replicate this would be beyond these tailors' respective skills or, more likely, my pricepoint.

    Appreciate the input Quadcammer, I have heard that from tailors before. Could you elaborate? I can submit pics if necessary but I am basically an endomorph with a large hip, thighs, seat so this is the only way I have found to get a masculine V shape
     
  6. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

    Messages:
    2,970
    Likes Received:
    277
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
    I understand the desire for the v-shape, but a 7.5 leg opening will look very strange unless you have very small feet and get the break perfect (i.e. none) with adequate slant to the hem.

    For a going out or whatever suit, no biggie. To meet with clients, I think you'll want 8" at least.
     
  7. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    

    The V starts at the outside of your shoulders. Down your waist. Then ends at your V which is in your pants :embar:
     
  8. jcep

    jcep Senior member

    Messages:
    114
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2010
    I see your point, however this would not address my problem with having proportionally large thighs. I'm relatively fit but this problem area makes a tapered pant somewhat of a necessity because with a straight leg pant my legs look like tree trunks. In any case thank you for taking the time to offer your suggestion.
     
  9. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

    Messages:
    981
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    Seriously, dont you think big thighs+small leg openning look un-proportioned? It actually reminds me some carrots. Don't take it wrong, but I do believe normal leg openning will benefit you.
     
  10. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

    Messages:
    3,058
    Likes Received:
    200
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Location:
    Dallas
    Where did you get the idea for that small leg openings? If you have pants like that, put up a picture.
     
  11. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

    Messages:
    1,868
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2012
    I literally lol-ed at this.
     
  12. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

    Messages:
    1,868
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2012
    You think that a .5 inch difference in leg opening is going to make or break him? Come on...At that size, it's either going to be a problem, or it's not.
     
  13. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    I have big thighs. Levi's 501s that are big in the waist are skin tight in the thighs. I also have relatively large ankles.. Wearing smaller/tighter pants doesn't hide your legs. It draws attention to them.

    It seems you want a slimmer cut suit. Lean chest. Slimmer legs. I have little doubt it'll put all the things you don't like on display.
     
  14. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

    Messages:
    2,970
    Likes Received:
    277
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
    

    meh i hear you, but if thats the look he wants, baby steps may help
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by