Comments on fit of these two suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by drizzt3117, Oct 13, 2006.

  1. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    This comes from the what you are wearing thread, because some people were asking about the fit of some of my suits, and to be honest I'm not totally sure if the fit is getting slightly worse on some of my suits. A little background, I'm more or less the same size as I was when I purchased some of these suits a couple years ago, but I'm slightly bigger in the shoulders and tricep area due to continued muscle mass gain. I didn't think it affected the fits of my suits too much, at least not enough to purchase more (not that I need an excuse) but some people had thought perhaps the fits weren't ideal on some of the suits, so I posted some comparison pics. I'm a pretty straight up 44R in terms of chest but I need slightly wider shoulders, about 20" or so, so not all OTR suits will fit me. Clearly the silhouettes of the two suits are different and I think the Brioni has a more elegant drape, but just wondering about the fits. Also, don't be concerned about the sleeve length, which is more or less perfect on both, I'm not showing as much cuff as I could be because I just threw them on to take the pics. This is a recent suit I've gotten. It's a Brioni that I purchased in 46R, and had taken in a bit. It fits quite well. The only issue that I could take is that the jacket seems like it might be 1" or so too long, comments? [​IMG] This is an Oxxford that I purchased from Filene's in 44R a couple years ago. I think it fits relatively well but the shoulder/upper arm area is a bit more snug than when I first purchased it, however, I'm a bit more comfortable with the jacket length, what do you guys think? To clarify, the suit certainly fits in the shoulders and upper arms, and is easy to put on and take off, and move around in, I just have less room than I do in the slightly larger Brioni. Does it seem like the fit is ok there? [​IMG]
     
  2. lawyerdad

    lawyerdad Senior member

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    I don't have a problem with the length of the Brioni, although it could be a touch long. Tough to say from the front - certainly not a glaring problem. Overall, I think the Brioni fits you much better. It gives you very sleek lines through the torso, whereas the Oxxford seems a bit bulky and "off" from mid-torso down. Maybe your bulking up a bit in the upper body has thrown off the proportions a bit?
    Also, FWIW, your left shoulder may be a bit lower than your right, but the effect seems exaggerated in the Oxxford photo, where you appear a bit stiffer. That difference in posture may account for some of the difference in how the suit looks (although I still think the Brioni's a much better fit).
    Digging that tie, too. Great, rich color.
     
  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    They look better than the others. I believe that most people here would tell you that the Brioni is the right length and the Oxxford far too short. What I don't like is that the collar (and shoulders) look like they are fighting to move backwards away from your neck. Thak a look at this picture. The collar looks like it is actually grasping the neck of the wearer. Some people say that the collar should feel like a good friend was holding the back of your neck with his hand. it is a good image to keep in mind: [​IMG]
     
  4. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I believe that most people here would tell you that the Brioni is the right length and the Oxxford far too short.

    Absolutely. The Brioni is very nice lengthwise, while the Oxxford is too short in a Thom-Browne-kind-of-way.
     
  5. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    I concur with the two previous posters. The Brioni is far more flattering than the Oxxford, which is too short and makes you look thick around the middle.
     
  6. rnoldh

    rnoldh Senior member

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    Both are good, but I definitely prefer the Brioni.

    The Brioni seems to have decidedly more waist suppression than the Oxxford. Far from being long, the coat length looks just right. The overall silhouette is slimming and flattering to you.

    The Oxxford is OK, but does not seem slimming at all, and If anything the coat looks a bit short.

    Of course, this can be because of the photos. The angle of the photo and the lighting can really effect the impression. But it just seems that the Brioni looks better on you as to fit.

    BTW: You say you have tried this Brioni 46R to get bigger shoulders than in a 44R. Were you satisfied with the result after tailoring? I think it's a good solution if you were not happy with the shoulders on a Brioni 44R.
     
  7. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Both are good, but I definitely prefer the Brioni. The Brioni seems to have decidedly more waist suppression than the Oxxford. Far from being long, the coat length looks just right. The overall silhouette is slimming and flattering to you. The Oxxford is OK, but does not seem slimming at all, and If anything the coat looks a bit short. Of course, this can be because of the photos. The angle of the photo and the lighting can really effect the impression. But it just seems that the Brioni looks better on you as to fit. BTW: You say you have tried this Brioni 46R to get bigger shoulders than in a 44R. Were you satisfied with the result after tailoring? I think it's a good solution if you were not happy with the shoulders on a Brioni 44R.
    Well, I think the angle could have something to do with the length of the Oxxford. It definitely doesn't seem too short when I'm wearing it, at least in back. As far as the 44R Brioni goes, here is a better view of the picture I took last night with my navy 44R Brioni. Excuse the cuff I was just trying to take a picture of the fit. It fits just in between the other two suits in length, and IMO is a good fit, but it doesn't drape quite as well as the other one, perhaps? [​IMG]
     
  8. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  9. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    The Brioni 44 beats the Oxxford hands down, but I still think the Brioni 46 is the most elongating and hence the most flattering.
     
  10. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Do you guys think it's the actual silhouette of the Oxxford that isn't as flattering, or the fit of the actual suit in question?
     
  11. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Do you usually stand like that? Stance can affect fit enormously.
     
  12. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Do you usually stand like that? Stance can affect fit enormously.

    Not exactly like that, i'm still getting used to the timer on this thing. I may try to do some more natural poses to take more pictures this weekend for reference.
     
  13. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    Yeah, the Brioni looks better.
     
  14. darkoak

    darkoak Senior member

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    Agree with the other posters that the brioni 46 looks a lot better--the jacket length is just right, the collar fits pretty good, and the cloth doesn't look worn out Did you buy all 3 on ebay? the oxxford definitely looks used and looks like you bought it without trying it on; same thing with the brioni 44 (albeit to lesser extent).
     
  15. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Agree with the other posters that the brioni 46 looks a lot better--the jacket length is just right, the collar fits pretty good, and the cloth doesn't look worn out Did you buy all 3 on ebay? the oxxford definitely looks used and looks like you bought it without trying it on; same thing with the brioni 44 (albeit to lesser extent).
    I got the Oxxford on ebay, and the other two at Filene's and C21 respectively. The Oxxford is slightly used but the cloth is in basically immaculate condition, I think the lighting may give you the impression that it is used. The Brionis are for all intents and purposes NWT, as I've worn them about 3-4 times each. Also, the Oxxford is patterned, although it's quite subtle. It's a navy on navy shadow stripe.
     

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