Colors and style suit selections

[ct2272]

All-

In slowly backfilling my wardrobe I have relied on my female friends to help with stylings, colors, and patterns.  That has been incredibly helpful so far.

So far I have added a navy and a charcoal solid suit to my wardrobe and was planning to buy at least 2 more.  The problem I am having is that I am trying to get an objective eye as to preferred colors and styles.

Is there much of a difference between a solid Navy and something like a Navy pinhead pattern?  On the surface, I really don't think so but am open to suggestions.  Functioning on a cost/value basis I'm choosing variety based on color and not style.  I would prefer not to have 4 different versions of navy in my closet.

Originally I was thinking about adding a lighter grey suit but my panel objected based on how it would not fit me (I'm a very conservative dresser - over 6 feet with a blonde crewcut and wear suits with a 13 inch drop).  

Everyone has suggested darker colors and I was thinking about black or possibly a dark pinstripe.  I do not mind the "financial or banking district" look.  Am I overlooking colors?

If you have a moment to share your experiences I would appreciate it.

Regards,
CT

 

[Renault78law]

Assuming you have fair skin to go along with the blond hair, I'd highly recommend a lighter grey suit. If you follow the Flusser train of reasoning, it will provide less contrast than a dark suit, and thus be more flattering to your face. In any case, I think that light or medium grey is a great color that would suit (pun) anyone quite well.
Not sure what you meant when you said, "my panel objected based on how it would not fit me." Are they saying that light grey is too flashy? I disagree - I think that it's a conservative, classic color.

 

[ct2272]

By my comment, what I mean is I don't believe they thought lighter grey would be a primary first choice.

Thank you for your comment Renault, I think you're dead-on with your choice.

Regards,
CT

 

[LA Guy]

One of your choices should be a charcoal or navy pinstripe, and preferably a medium to narrow pinstripe to accentuate your height and de-emphasize your extreme body type (13 inch drop, yowza&#33

- which probably looks great in the gym, but is hard to find flattering clothing for. I would make the other suit a charcoal. I also think that no wardrobe is complete without a slimming black or midnight blue (i.e. one shade away from black) suit - perfect for evenings out (you can add a tuxedo - one button peaked lapel will look stunning on your body type, later.) With you body type and conservative dress sense, stay away from plaids and windowpane patterns. And for the love of all that is good and holy, try to use MTM or custom as often as affordable. I think that for most men, this is (IMO) an indulgence, but is quite warranted in your case.

 

[ct2272]

LA Guy-

To your comment about MTM, it is actually the first thing I look for before moving forward on any of my purchases.  About 10 years ago when it first became a necessity to wear a suit in an office environment I used to buy OTR and have it altered.  The tailors who didn't laugh at me would typically charge me about 100% of the purchase price to just make alterations.  I distinctly remember one of their comments:

"It would cost more to alter the jacket than what it cost to make it."

Thankfully during that period, "office casual" came into vogue where suits were not required and if I had to dress up it was with a navy blazer that was unfortunately unaltered.  I put up with the ballooning sides for that particular day or event.

I have taken suggestions from the recommended MTM establishments on this website and put them to good use (Ask Andy's is a nice place to for his FAQs.  I have all but given up on his forums).

Regards,
CT

 

[A Harris]

About navy patterned suit - they are the only navy suits I will wear, as a solid dark navy is a little too severe for my tastes. A nice birdseye or nailhead in black and mid-to-dark blue (looks navy overall) is a great choice and is perfectly acceptable for business wear.

 

[Alias]

I agree with the above posters that darker colors would be too severe for your complexion. I'm your typical Asian, with light skin and black hair. I look great in a dark navy solid (the kind A Harris avoids

) with a light shirt and dark tie, for razor-sharp contrast. Someone with your complexion should definitely choose lighter colors. The whole idea is, according to the Flusser school, to let the clothes best imitate your facial complexion to draw the viewer's eyes upwards to your face. If you were to wear something starkly contrasted, I have a feeling people would be eyeing your suit, and not you.

 

[ct2272]

Alias -

I see your point about contrasted suits. It appears my tastes fall toward the more powerful (dark suits). I've limited my next suit choices to:

1. Navy pinstripe
2. Brown
3. Oxford Grey (medium Grey equivalent)

I like the idea of a grey and I have been told that a chocolate brown be something that could help me convey more style than authority.

On authority...
It's actually quite funny when I wear suits and fly. Often when I'm with a business party in DC we get stares because they think I am with law enforcement (typically Secret Service if I'm near the Capital or White House). The looks on people's faces as they are trying to figure out who in the world the official is that requires a bodyguard is priceless. In fact I often receive better treatment when in airports and well dressed. The related thread that spoke about the air marshal dress code makes me understand why. I always though the people waiting on me thought I dressed well rather than being with a security force.

Regards,
CT

 

[Alias]

1. Â Navy pinstripe 2. Â Brown 3. Â Oxford Grey (medium Grey equivalent) I like the idea of a grey and I have been told that a chocolate brown be something that could help me convey more style than authority. I always though the people waiting on me thought I dressed well rather than being with a security force.

Those are good choices. You can definitely wear a navy pinstripe or solid or anything, as long as your tie or shirt doesn't draw attention away from your face. Since you have blond hair, might I recommend a tie with gold accents (stripes, dots, diamonds, whatever) along with a solid blue shirt? Brown's cool. I want a brown suit for this fall. It might not pack a lot of business power (not as much as the stark solids, anyway), but style is another matter. Definitely a stylish color. I always wanted one in windowpane. Medium grey is a good all-around bet. I'm going to try dressing up for my trip to Hawaii

I'm really curious as to how they'll act towards me.

 

[LA Guy]

A chestnut or chocolate brown velvet or Moleskin suit would be incredibly stylish. One of my favorite US GQ photoshoots was the one with Mos Def modeling all sorts of velvet suits and sports jackets. Now *there* is a guy who has style by the truckload.